Where is the jack hidden in a ford explorere

I am not really sure on older models, but. Hold down the #1 and #4 buttons at the same time, for 5 to 10 seconds. This should get you to the spot or a menu to enter your code.

it should just measure across bell housing and make sure its the same.

are you talking about inertia switch. since this car is an export and we dont have it here in usa i am not sure but ford have them usually in these spots in the jack compartment. in the passenger sine kick panel or in the trunk. hope it helps.

Sounds like battery not holding charge. Or a light staying on, boot or glovebox? Most likely battery tho.

The first thing to do is to get the vehicle jacked up, high enough to work under it. Make sure to use good jack stands, or some other Blocks to keep it up- NEVER work on a vehicle with just a jack under it.

O.K. -Remove the Negative cable from the Battery.
Remove the Starter Motor.
"""""" the Transmission Inspection Panel.
""""" the Torque Converter Nuts. You will have to rotate the engine with a bar, using either the teeth on the flywheel, or a wrench on the front of the motor, at the harmonic balancer. The torque Converter will come out WITH the Transmission.
""""" the Transmission Cooling Lines from the transmission.
""""""the Speedometer cable from the transmission. Either unscrew the cable, or, remove the bolt, and remove cable & housing & gear together.
""""" Neutral Starting Switch plug, and Backup Lights Plug.
""""" Vacuum line from Modulater on Transmission.
"""" the transmission Shift Linkage.
"""""the Driveshaft. Wrap black tape around the cups of the U-Joints, so you do not loose any pin bearings.
Put a suitable jack under the Transmission, and put a little pressure on it, taking its weight only. Now remove the Cross-Member. (the part of the frame that actually holds the transmission in place) Remove the bolts from the transmission mount, and then from the frame, and pull out the Cross-Member.
Now, slowly let the jack down, so that the Transmission falls down a bit, and lock the jack so it stays there.
Now, remove the Bell-Housing Bolts. With the Bell Housing bolts removed, the Transmission is now Loose from the engine. You will probably have to remove the Transmission's Filler/Check tube before you actually remove the transmission from the motor. Once the bolt holding it is removed, simply pull it up and out of the transmission.

Now, the transmission will pull straight back, a couple of inches, and come straight down out of the truck. You WILL spill some fluid out of the transmission, primarily from the rear seal, and the speedometer hole.

The transmission is very heavy. Do not attempt the removal all by yourself, unless you have a quality transmission jack, or have rigged up a way to hold it by yourself. I have found that a block on either side of the truck, with a 2x6 accross, under the tranny, works alright for me.

If this is a 4x4 truck, the only things that are different is that you have to remove BOTH the front and rear driveshafts, and the linkage to the Transfer Case. Then the Transmission and Transfer case will come out as one unit.

Installation is the reverse of removal. Be sure the Torque Converter is FULLY SEATED into the Transmissions' oil pump before installing the transmission.

Here is a site that will help you. http://www.ford-trucks.com/article/idx/9/076/Drivetrain_Transmission__Axle/article/Ford_C6NP205_removal_and_reinstallation_guide.html

You have bad front drive axle CV Joints

Need to replace worn axle

You know the electrical circuit that has the
problem, since you removed the fuse

Now you need a wiring diagram or a repair shop

It's not too hard...just be careful of the "spring" i have a special tool to hold the spring...and you need to hold the door up with a floor jack or wood blocks..Hope this helped you ??

It depends on the vehicle. If its a regular car, there will be a thick sheet metal rim under the car close to where the bottom of the fender is, and toward the tire you are about to change. If you take your fingers and run it along that seam sort of like a ziplock bag motion you will feel the thickest part, and thats what you use........If you have any doubts you can check your owners manual as well. Usually any frame area or cross member will be fine, just be careful and make sure the spot you put the jack on is level and flat.

drain all the fuel you can from the tank, SAFELY using proper saftey equipment, place the vehicle on jack stands, disconnect the battery, place a jack under the tank, remove fuel cap, remove 3 screws holding filler neck to the inside of fuel filler door compartment, remove tank straps, remove driveshaft, lower tank slightly & remove fuel neck, wires, fuel couplings, lower tank & remove from vehicle. Carefully remove locking ring from the tank where it holds down the fuel pump asy, remove pump asy & replace components as needed, reassemble, check for leaks, road test vehcile

Ford's spares are held in place with a cable that's loosened by inserting the jack handle into the cable crank. it's located below the door sill of the rear door. Look for a hole that the jack handle can be inserted and turn counterclockwise. The tire should lower down for you.