My husband was replacing the CV shaft in our 1989 saab 900 s the shims came free he needs to know should he just replace them or should he try realigning them? if he realigns them is there a specific order in which to do so? It is the right front passanger side. and he is unsure if getting it right or if the order in which the shims go matters at all?
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Re: CV Shaft and Shims for 1989 saab 900 s
It matters...just install them all, no special order, from same place they came out...should be good but go get vehicle aligned afterwards to be sure ...so as not to wear tires weird or cause safety issues(steering/tracking)..good luck :)
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Re: CV Shaft and Shims for 1989 saab 900 s
Are these shims part of the control arm, and if it is yes it does matter 'cause this connects with the front end alignment since they have just fallen of put them bak in the best way you can and dont forget to get ti proffessionaly aligned at a alignment shop.
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could be the cam cover case, or the cam shaft bearing seal leaking. cam cover gasket easy change. cam shaft bearing seal, not really a bearing its shims. that involves removing the timing belt and taking out the cams and replacing the shims on all of them best to do all as when you start moving stuff you can put a crack in the old ones when refitting.
The ring gear is bolted to what is called a ring gear carrier, the carrier is bolted inside the rear end housing with two bolts on each side, it is shimmed on each side to adjust backlash and pinion depth so DON'T mix up the left and right carrier shims, once the carrier is out with the ring gear attached you can remove the pinion shaft and drive out the bearing races of the pinion bearings. You also need to remove the pinion flange where the drive shaft U-Joint attaches, just hammer it off with a brass faced hammer (a steel hammer will run the flange) once the large center nut is removed.
Starter - REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Starter removal on some models may
necessitate the removal of the front support which runs from the corner
of the frame to the front crossmember. If so, loosen the mounting bolt
which attaches the support the frame first, then remove the crossmember
bolt and swing the support out of the way.
The starters on some engines require the addition of shims to provide
proper clearance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel.
These shims are available in 0.015 in. sizes from Chevrolet dealers.
Flat washers can be used if shims are unavailable.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
If access to the wiring is difficult, the starter may be partially
lowered before disconnecting it, but be careful not to stretch or damage
Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut
as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to
connector. Note or tag the wiring positions for installation purposes.
If equipped, remove the front bracket from the starter. On engines
with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and
detach the bracket from the starter.
Remove the starter mounting bolts. If a starter shim tab can be
seen protruding out from between the mating surfaces of the starter and
the block, remove the outer bolt first, then loosen the inner bolt. With
the outer bolt removed and the inner loosened, most shims may be
grasped and pulled from the top of the starter at this point. Once the
bolts are removed, lower the starter front end first, and remove the
unit from the car.
If no shim tab could be seen, yet shims or flat washers fall from the
starter as it is withdrawn, stop and attempt to determine their
locations. If possible, gather the shims for reuse during assembly.
Shims without tabs must be positioned on the starter prior to
installation, but the bolts may be held through the starter assembly in
order to hold the shims in position.
If flat washers or shims without tabs were found on removal,
position them on top of the starter using the mounting bolts to hold
them in position.
Position the starter to the engine block and loosely install the
mounting bolts. If tabbed shims were withdrawn during removal, position
them before the outer mounting bolt is threaded.
Once the starter and shims are properly positioned, tighten the
two mounting bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).
If equipped, install the front bracket and/or heat shield to the
Attach the starter wiring to the solenoid, as noted during
Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
Connect the negative battery cable.
STARTER OVERHAUL Drive Replacement
Disconnect the field coil straps from the solenoid.
Remove the through-bolts, and separate the commutator end frame,
field frame assembly, drive housing, and armature assembly from each
On diesel starter, remove the insulator from the end frame. The
armature on the diesel starter remains in the drive end frame. On diesel
starters, remove the shift lever pivot bolt. ON the diesel 25 MT
starter only, remove the center bearing screws and remove the drive gear
housing from the armature shaft. The shift lever and plunger assembly
will now fall away from the starter clutch.
Slide the two piece thrust collar off the end of the armature
Slide a suitably sized metal cylinder, such as a
in. pipe coupling, or an old pinion, onto the shaft so
that the end of the coupling or pinion butts up against the edge of the
Support the lower end of the armature securely on a soft surface,
such as a wooden block, and tap the end of the coupling or pinion,
driving the retainer towards the armature end of the snapring.
Remove the snapring from the groove in the armature shaft with a
pair of pliers. Then, slide the retainer and starter drive from the
Lubricate the drive end of the armature shaft with silicone
lubricant and then slide the starter drive onto the shaft with the
pinion facing outward. Slide the retainer onto the shaft with the cupped
surface facing outward.
Again support the armature on a soft surface, with the pinion at
the upper end. Center the snapring on the top of the shaft (use a new
snapring if the original was damaged during removal). Gently place a
block of wood flat on top of the snapring so as not to move it from a
centered position. Tap the wooden block with a hammer in order to force
the snapring around the shaft. Then, slide the ring down into the
Lay the armature down flat on the surface you're working on. Slide
the retainer close up on to the shaft and position it and the thrust
collar next to the snapring. Using two pairs of pliers on opposite sides
of the shaft, squeeze the thrust collar and the retainer together until
the snapring is forced into the retainer.
Lube the drive housing bushing with a silicone lubricant. Then,
install the armature and the clutch assembly into the drive housing,
engaging the solenoid shift lever yoke with the clutch, and positioning
the front of the armature shaft into the bushing.
On non-diesel starters the shift lever may be installed in the drive
gear housing first. On the 25 MT diesel starter only, install the center
bearing screws and the shift lever pivot bolt, and tighten securely.
Apply a sealing compound approved for this application onto the
drive housing; then position the field frame around the armatures shaft
and against the drive housing. Work slowly and carefully to prevent
damaging the starter brushes.
Lubricate the bushing in the commutator end frame with a silicone
lubricant, place the leather brake washer onto the armature shaft, and
then slide the commutator end frame over the shaft and into position
against the field frame. Line up the bolt holes, then install and
tighten the through-bolts.
Reconnect the field coil straps to the MOTOR terminal of the
If replacement of the starter drive fails to cure improper engagement
of starter pinion to flywheel, there are probably defective parts in
the solenoid and/or shift lever. The best procedure would probably be to
take the assembly to a shop where a pinion clearance check can be made
by energizing the solenoid on a test bench. If the pinion clearance is
incorrect, disassemble the solenoid and shift lever, inspect, and
replace worn parts.
There is a large lock nut that holds the axle into the splined end inside the transaxle. This nut is usually torqued into place very well though, but if it is loose or was not torqued properly then this could cause free-play in the axle. You can look up the torque specs online or use a chilton or Haynes manual to get the specification.
its pointing upward b/c thats what the pinon angle is set for that way there is no vibration when driving it. they sell pinion shims to place b/w the leaf spring and the axle to turn it more up or down
You are moving the strater away from the flywheel when you put shims on it, this normally will make it worse. A clang will tel you its too close. When you got your starter shims did it come with a little piece of wire about the size in diamiter of a ink pen refill? if so that is the gauge for using the shims.You place it on the shaft of the starter, and it should just slide between the flywheel and the shaft. You may need to move the starter closer to the flywheel, this can be accomplished by only shiming the outside bolt on the starter- hope this helps.
There is too much air gap between the hub and pulley. Usually, there are shims under the hub to set the proper gap. If you remove the small bolt in the center of the hub, it should slide off. There should be shims that look like small washers on the compressor shaft. You may need a magnet to get them out while the unit is on the vehicle. There are different sizes available and you have to remove smaller ones to reduce the air gap. These shims usually come with a new clutch, but a dealer or parts store should be able to come up with just the shims. I just searched Google shopping and found shims available for $13-$14. You need to find a combination of them that is a few thousandths of an inch thinner than what is in there right now. A new clutch looks to be around $80-$90. I hope this helps. Good luck.
This engine utilizes shims to set proper clearances, you will need a micrometer, valve clearance adjustment tool set for shimmed lifters,small magnetic arm, appropriate shim selecting charts (manufacturer will have this if you can get the nec. measurements).
Measure thickness of shims removed (using micrometer) and use this formula where T=Thickness of old shim; A=Valve clearance measured; N=Thickness of new shim required.
Intake valves: N = T + (A - 0.02 mm (0.008 in.))
Exh. valves: N = T + (A - 0.25 mm (0.010 in.))
Then you need to find shims as close as possible to the calculated values.
Valve clearances (cold) are as follows:
Intake0.15 - 0.25 mm (0.006 - 0.010 in.)
Exhaust0.20 - 0.30 mm (0.008 - 0.012 in.)
Note, if you are not familiar with precision measuring using a micrometer, this may be better left to a trained tech. These are high revving little power plants and you don't want a problem at 8K rpm.
If you have the distributor out of the vehicle, there is a pin that goes through the drive gear. drive it out with a small drift or if you don't have one you can use an exotic tool such as a ten penny nail that has been blunted and ground down to size. Once the pin is out, slide the gear and any shims off the shaft and keep them in order fro replacement. Once the gear has been removed the shaft slides right out of housing. You can re-use the roll pin from the gear so don't loose it! Make sure you mark the rotor position using a reference mark on the block or you will mess with ignition timing. Rotor must point to the mark exactly after replacing. Sometimes you will need to use a long screwdriver to turn the oil pump shaft to allow the dist to fully engage.