Question about 1989 Saab 900 4 Door

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CV Shaft and Shims for 1989 saab 900 s

My husband was replacing the CV shaft in our 1989 saab 900 s the shims came free he needs to know should he just replace them or should he try realigning them? if he realigns them is there a specific order in which to do so? It is the right front passanger side. and he is unsure if getting it right or if the order in which the shims go matters at all?

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It matters...just install them all, no special order, from same place they came out...should be good but go get vehicle aligned afterwards to be sure as not to wear tires weird or cause safety issues(steering/tracking)..good luck :)

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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Are these shims part of the control arm, and if it is yes it does matter 'cause this connects with the front end alignment since they have just fallen of put them bak in the best way you can and dont forget to get ti proffessionaly aligned at a alignment shop.

Posted on Dec 04, 2008


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Oil leak coming from the top right hand side of the motor by the cam shaft talked to dealer and it got me no where need to know what that part is and what is does so i can stop the leak

could be the cam cover case, or the cam shaft bearing seal leaking.
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The ring gear is bolted to what is called a ring gear carrier, the carrier is bolted inside the rear end housing with two bolts on each side, it is shimmed on each side to adjust backlash and pinion depth so DON'T mix up the left and right carrier shims, once the carrier is out with the ring gear attached you can remove the pinion shaft and drive out the bearing races of the pinion bearings. You also need to remove the pinion flange where the drive shaft U-Joint attaches, just hammer it off with a brass faced hammer (a steel hammer will run the flange) once the large center nut is removed.

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Oct 17, 2010 | 1989 Buick Electra

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How do i to change out a starter on a 1978 El Camino?

Starter removal on some models may necessitate the removal of the front support which runs from the corner of the frame to the front crossmember. If so, loosen the mounting bolt which attaches the support the frame first, then remove the crossmember bolt and swing the support out of the way.

The starters on some engines require the addition of shims to provide proper clearance between the starter pinion gear and the flywheel. These shims are available in 0.015 in. sizes from Chevrolet dealers. Flat washers can be used if shims are unavailable.
  1. Disconnect the negative battery cable.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle safely using jackstands.
If access to the wiring is difficult, the starter may be partially lowered before disconnecting it, but be careful not to stretch or damage the wiring.
  1. Disconnect all wiring from the starter solenoid. Replace each nut as the connector is removed, as thread sizes differ from connector to connector. Note or tag the wiring positions for installation purposes.
  2. If equipped, remove the front bracket from the starter. On engines with a solenoid heat shield, remove the front bracket upper bolt and detach the bracket from the starter.
  3. Remove the starter mounting bolts. If a starter shim tab can be seen protruding out from between the mating surfaces of the starter and the block, remove the outer bolt first, then loosen the inner bolt. With the outer bolt removed and the inner loosened, most shims may be grasped and pulled from the top of the starter at this point. Once the bolts are removed, lower the starter front end first, and remove the unit from the car.

If no shim tab could be seen, yet shims or flat washers fall from the starter as it is withdrawn, stop and attempt to determine their locations. If possible, gather the shims for reuse during assembly. Shims without tabs must be positioned on the starter prior to installation, but the bolts may be held through the starter assembly in order to hold the shims in position.

To install:

  1. If flat washers or shims without tabs were found on removal, position them on top of the starter using the mounting bolts to hold them in position.
  2. Position the starter to the engine block and loosely install the mounting bolts. If tabbed shims were withdrawn during removal, position them before the outer mounting bolt is threaded.
  3. Once the starter and shims are properly positioned, tighten the two mounting bolts to 25-35 ft. lbs. (34-47 Nm).
  4. If equipped, install the front bracket and/or heat shield to the starter assembly.
  5. Attach the starter wiring to the solenoid, as noted during removal.
  6. Remove the jackstands and carefully lower the vehicle.
  7. Connect the negative battery cable.

Drive Replacement
  1. Disconnect the field coil straps from the solenoid.
  2. Remove the through-bolts, and separate the commutator end frame, field frame assembly, drive housing, and armature assembly from each other.
On diesel starter, remove the insulator from the end frame. The armature on the diesel starter remains in the drive end frame. On diesel starters, remove the shift lever pivot bolt. ON the diesel 25 MT starter only, remove the center bearing screws and remove the drive gear housing from the armature shaft. The shift lever and plunger assembly will now fall away from the starter clutch.
  1. Slide the two piece thrust collar off the end of the armature shaft.
  2. Slide a suitably sized metal cylinder, such as a standard 1 / 2 in. pipe coupling, or an old pinion, onto the shaft so that the end of the coupling or pinion butts up against the edge of the pinion retainer.
  3. Support the lower end of the armature securely on a soft surface, such as a wooden block, and tap the end of the coupling or pinion, driving the retainer towards the armature end of the snapring.
  4. Remove the snapring from the groove in the armature shaft with a pair of pliers. Then, slide the retainer and starter drive from the shaft.
To assemble:
  1. Lubricate the drive end of the armature shaft with silicone lubricant and then slide the starter drive onto the shaft with the pinion facing outward. Slide the retainer onto the shaft with the cupped surface facing outward.
  2. Again support the armature on a soft surface, with the pinion at the upper end. Center the snapring on the top of the shaft (use a new snapring if the original was damaged during removal). Gently place a block of wood flat on top of the snapring so as not to move it from a centered position. Tap the wooden block with a hammer in order to force the snapring around the shaft. Then, slide the ring down into the snapring groove.
  3. Lay the armature down flat on the surface you're working on. Slide the retainer close up on to the shaft and position it and the thrust collar next to the snapring. Using two pairs of pliers on opposite sides of the shaft, squeeze the thrust collar and the retainer together until the snapring is forced into the retainer.
  4. Lube the drive housing bushing with a silicone lubricant. Then, install the armature and the clutch assembly into the drive housing, engaging the solenoid shift lever yoke with the clutch, and positioning the front of the armature shaft into the bushing.
On non-diesel starters the shift lever may be installed in the drive gear housing first. On the 25 MT diesel starter only, install the center bearing screws and the shift lever pivot bolt, and tighten securely.
  1. Apply a sealing compound approved for this application onto the drive housing; then position the field frame around the armatures shaft and against the drive housing. Work slowly and carefully to prevent damaging the starter brushes.
  2. Lubricate the bushing in the commutator end frame with a silicone lubricant, place the leather brake washer onto the armature shaft, and then slide the commutator end frame over the shaft and into position against the field frame. Line up the bolt holes, then install and tighten the through-bolts.
  3. Reconnect the field coil straps to the MOTOR terminal of the solenoid.
If replacement of the starter drive fails to cure improper engagement of starter pinion to flywheel, there are probably defective parts in the solenoid and/or shift lever. The best procedure would probably be to take the assembly to a shop where a pinion clearance check can be made by energizing the solenoid on a test bench. If the pinion clearance is incorrect, disassemble the solenoid and shift lever, inspect, and replace worn parts.

Hope this help.

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Apr 09, 2009 | 1989 Jeep Wrangler

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