I have a 1994 Cadillac Seville. My heater took a **** on me. It is still working air is just not coming out of the front vents AT ALL not even a little bit when the car is moving fast?. what could cause this to happen!!!!. could it be a fuse or an electrical problem. I am assuming it has nothing to do with the blower motor or the Thermostat b/c the back heater are blowing out a strong supply of hot air? PLease Help me!!!
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Low coolant, if there is an air pocket in the engine it will make it to the heater core. Once there , the air coming out is cold/cool. Once the coolant fills the heater core, it gets hot. If the coolant is fine hot or cold, then have the HVAC system scanned.
DTC B1340 Air Mix Door #1 Movement Problem !
The heater and A/C programmer supplies voltage to an internal motor that drives the air mix door. The heater and A/C programmer monitors the air mix door position feedback from a sensor on the motor. If the air mix door is requested to move but the feedback voltage does not change, the heater and A/C programmer will store DTC B1340. If the air mix door feedback indicates that the feedback is near the hot or the cold extreme, the DTC will not set. Evaluate the operation of the air mix door through self diagnostics as described in the test description.
Perform the Diagnostic System Check before continuing with the diagnosis of this DTC.
A Scan Tool allows for the direct control of the air mix door by observing the following conditions:
• The air mix door position feedback value
• The value`s difference from the air mix door commanded position value
These readings indicate a fault internal to the heater and A/C programmer in the air mix door sensor feedback.
Did you perform the Diagnostic System Check?
Go to Step 2
Go to Diagnostic System Check
With the engine running, connect a Scan Tool .
Turn the dual zone to OFF (passenger temperature offset at 0 or OFF).
Exercise the suspect actuator using the temperature control on the control assembly.
Is the door being commanded (COM) to the proper high and low values?
COM High 100 %
COM Low 0 %
Go to Step 3
Go to Step 4
If you are unfamilier with this , i suggest you take it to a ASE certified repair shop or the dealer .
you simply have an electrical relay problem or a stuck door in your vent not allowing the flow to be equal ..I have found all kinds of issues like a small toy or something that was somehow dropped into the vent area ..also once i opened some duct work and pulled out dead mice ..I know ewww ..good luck
One of you motors in the heater venting system has burnt a fuse, burnt out or has come disconnected. This prevents a flap in the heater from changing positions and sending air to the floor or the defrost.
Have you had a heater core or motor replaced recently as the heater ducting needs to be removed for some of this work and it is possible to have problems with the heater venting doors not moving after the work is done.
The engine coolant might be low as this could have air in the system and ait doesn't transfer heat like coolant does/ the heater core can be stopped up too and flushing it out is a good idea every year. there's no valve in the system so just blow it though with a garden hose and fill it with the right amount of coolant test drive and check the coolnt again. The 4.6 northstar is known for internal leaks and may be leaking. with the key on and the engine off inside the car and everything off except the heater on low move the temperture from hot to cold and listen for the air doors moving a clicking or poping sound is'nt what you want to hear so trace the sound and the air door motor that's clicking may need to be replaced.
Help is HERE! It looks like an Air lock scenario! Park vehicle on level ground, when cold remove coolant filler cap, start engine and leave to idle, turn heater to hot blower on full. When at operating temp keep clear of coolant filler area and listen, hopefully gurgling then a boil over, wait and then top up with very warm water/coolant let settle it may boil over again whilst air is still in system. Check for heat inside car, if hot and coolant settled replace cap but keep an eye on temp gauge for a while as air lock may still be further along cooling system. Please press the Blue button if sorted! Paul 'W' U.K.
It means the heater circuit for the O2 sensor has failed. An O2 sensor has to be up around 900 degrees to function properly, and if its heater fails, it won't get up to temperature (thus the "not ready" diagnosis). Replacing the O2 sensor will fix your problem.