The right rear wheel seems to lock in cold weather. I am letting it warm up now because my daughter said that if she lets the car warm up it does not make that shaking noise. 16 year old thinks that the rear wheel locking up is a shaking noise.
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You have valves inside the transmission and electronic controls inside the transmission. When cold, valves do not work because the fluid is too thick. Once warm the fluid thins out and allows tranny to shift OK. You can burn your tranny up by not letting it warm up.
Are you sure it is all 4 wheels locking up? I have a 1998 Century and had the same problem, it is due to moisture getting on the rear brake shoes, this makes them "stick" to the drum cold and lock the wheels, the newer brake shoe friction material has been improved to avoid this so called "stickson" problem in moist cold weather.
Your saying as you drive it locks and skids? You say as you try to pull out the wheel is shuck and it won't turn? Or your saying that you detect that the wheel is dragging and the wheel turns fine? Is the other rear wheel sticking? The parking brake pedal is it all the way up? With the pedal up are the parking braek cables under the truck going to rear wheels tight or taugt but moving or slack and hanging. As this cable enters the hosing going to the rear wheel about an inch from the housing ( cable Housing ) clamp on a pair of vise grips or other locking pliers and hit them with a hammer towards the rear wheel. As your trying to make the cable go back as much as it's going to. Check both sides as it's possible that thier frozen in the cold weather. It's wise to avoid using the parking break in cold weather as they get mositure in them over time and with them frozen on the brake wil stick. If you find the cables slack with the pedal released and beating them back towards the wheel does'nt seem to be releasing the break you may need to heat the cable with a tourch to free them. The other answer is the rear break came aprt someway and the break shoes are bound up against the drum. The wheel bearing is possible too unless you can tell is the break.
this is simply a fluid issue try draining steering fluid and replacing it make sure to start car after top up and turn steering full lock a few times in each direction and top up to max as required done
If no oil on the driver side, you have a locked up parking brake pivot. Follow the park brake cable to the inside plate of the rear wheels. on the outside, where the cable connects, look to see the position of the visible mechanism connected to the cable. It probably will not match the side that is not locked up. This is a very common problem; you need to replace the park brake pivot. Additionally, you are going to need to remove the other side axle shaft and get the leaking oil seal replaced. Replace the brake shoes if they have oil on them.
I'm thinking lubricant in housing too thick in cold weather obviously, but I'd be tempted to call a dealer service manager, or parts guy & ask if they have any recommendations regarding the lubricant for these in colder weather. Don't cost anything to ask. Perhaps Lucas oil or similar has a product that will help. Don't know for sure if there is a synthetic lube approved for that use either, but if you can't find out locally, let me know and I'll do some more research for you if I can .
The steering lock consists of a hardened pin and it may not be releasing any more although it shouldn't interfere with the turning of your key, just your steering unless the Geo is done differently.
If it was mine, I would get a little rough with it and turn the steering wheel hard from left to right while trying to turn the ignition key.
Even disassembly is not easy since the lock area is supposed to be secure so it cannot be easily defeated.