Sounds like plugged up pre cats, my NA had the same problem I got a Racing Beat header that eliminated the pre cats and it went away. I've also seen them on eBay for cheaper. Either way you can't lose the stock header is like a cast iron stove attached to the engine it's heavy and massive.
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
It needs a scanner on it to find the problem while driving it. Several things can cause this. At 4000 rpm's in park the ecm will suppress the engine. this would be the Neutral safety switch. So going from there, if not the switch, it could be wiring or a bad buffer in the ecm.
I have a 1997 626 2.0L 5speed when im driven it like rev limits cuts out around 3500-4000rpm, and when i rev it up and past 4000rpm it stalls, anyone have a idea whats wrong??? thanks i just replaced the crank sensor and egr and still. good power put cuts out
Ya know First i never drive a car at 4ooo RPMS cant remember when but anyway.
Check the Intake Air tube the goes into the air cleaner and throttle body for cracks and cuts and being loose. Fuel Pressure have it checked while you are driving to make sure your noy loosing fuel pressure at the high Rs. Ignition System Factory Plugs and wires no fancy discount suppose to increase horsepower stuff
my 1988 mazda 626 starts okay then dies everytime it idles down to normal idle speed. i replaced the throttle control sensor and the mass air sensor. i replaced the rotor in the distributor but is still dies. if you throttle up to about 1500 rpm it keeps running. any ideas???