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Posted on Dec 03, 2008
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Exhaust valve stem hight above head?

After seats were ground, an auto repair shop said one valve is staying open due to the stem length since the the valves are now recessed.

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  • Expert 341 Answers
  • Posted on Dec 31, 2008
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Joined: Nov 26, 2008
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Ask them grind some off the stem if they can.Many valves stems are hollow and filled with sodium to aid in cooling so the amount amount they can remove is limited,but they may be able to take some off to correct the problem. I would consider this a warranty situation regardless of what fix it requires.There are tolerances that must be adhered to when doing machine work and this is the result of not keeping within these tolerances.They should have used a new valve as it would have been thicker at the valve face.Whatever you do don't drive the car. You will burn the valve.

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2answers

Having loud valve tick on 3rd cylinder compression test showed it was weak. took valve cover off and checked everything with feeler gauge to find

If you know how valves are installed in a head, then you know there is one traditional way to repair problem -- pull the head off.
The other is to replaced the seals and keepers while holding the valve up against the valve seat from the valve stem. Mess up and you pull the head to finish the repair. For someone who has not done engine work - take the car to the shop OR pull the head and take it in, Normally if there are 2 heads you do both at the same time, because repairing one side makes it stronger than the other and the can bring on other problems.
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On landrover freelander 2litre turbo year 2000. i need the height of the valvestem above the cylinderhead

For the lifter to have exceeded the travel available, the valve would have had to eroded the seat very badly and I am sure you would have noticed that when you ground the valves. Have you tried starting the engine. If the valve is leaking as you say, it will idle very badly. Alternatively are you sure you have done a good grind on the valves. Generally it is better to have a machine shop reface the seats and valves rather than just grind them as you get a much better and longer lasting job. The likelihood of the lifter holding the valve open is very low so I would try starting it.
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1answer

Black and blue smoke when cold start

Hey Anon..this is a serious problem ONLY if you do not keep your engine oil level full...but you do need to get it repaired as soon as you can..
Sounds like you may only need new valve stem seals...BUT.. you need to check and see if your car smokes when driving.. especially when you are stopped at a red light, then take off again...Does it smoke then.>??? >> THIS IS IMPORTANT!!... It determines whether its rings and/or valve stem seals.. If it smokes after a red light.. it could be rings and valve stem seals.. If it ONLY smokes in the morning.. its a 99% chance its just worn out valve stems seals...
Find a qualified professional (ASE Certified or Toyota Factory shop) ..This is NOT an inexpensive fix..BUT - ASK if they will replace the valve stems seals without removing the heads..( I KNOW they can..its just a matter of WILL they!?!?)...BUT....The shop will want to rework your head(s).. called a "valve job" and this is normal,-- they will remove the head(s), all the valves, regrind their sealing surface and regrind the valve seats in the heads, install new valve stem seals, new intake gaskets, new head gaskets, fresh antifreeze..(get a new -QUALITY- thermostat and have them install it - no need to chance overheating your engine), they should "surface the heads".. giving them a fresh gasket sealing surface.. this will restore the sealing surfaces and help with the compression, and I would recommend letting them do it if you can!!....if you do this -- MAKE SURE you ask/demand for ALL your old parts back,-- all of them!! Good luck,, please mark as/if helpful...thanks!!
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Backfired then quit

sounds like your exhaust valves aren't opening up which means either your cam is out of round, push rods are bent/flatten rocker arms broken, broken valve stem/seat, hopefully just the valve got stuck closed due to carbon build up
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What that means are new valve seats and valve guide, with new valve stem,with new or refurbished valves,This is a common need after so many years in service
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What is the clearance for rod bearings on the crank of a 98 ford f 150 4.6

General Specifications Item Specification
Displacement L (CID) 4.6 (281)
Number of Cylinders 8
Bore and Stroke mm 90.2 x 90.0
Firing Order 1-3-7-2-6-5-4-8
Oil Pressure (HOT @ 1500 rpm) kPa 138-310
Drive Belt Tension a
Cylinder Head and Valve Train
Combustion Chamber Volume cm 52?±.5
Valve Seats Width?€"Intake mm 1.9-2.1
Valve Seats Width?€"Exhaust mm 1.9-2.1
Valve Seats Angle 44.51-45.01 degrees
Valve Seats Runout (T.I.R.) Max mm 0.025
Valve Arrangement (Front-to-Rear) (Left Hand) E-I-E-I-E-I-E-I
(Right Hand)
I-E-I-E-I-E-I-E
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance?€"Intake mm (Inch) 0.020-0.069
(0.00078-0.00272)
Valve Stem to Guide Clearance?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 0.045-0.095 (0.0018-0.0037)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Intake mm (Inch) 44.5- (1.75)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 34.0 (1.34)
Valve Head Diameter?€"Gauge Diameters mm (Inch) 42.5- and 32.0
(1.67 and 1.26)
Valve Face Runout Limit mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Valve Face Angle 45.25-45.75 degrees
Valve Stem Diameter (STD)
?€"Intake mm (Inch) 6.995-6.975 (0.275-0.2746)
Valve Stem Diameter (Std)
?€"Exhaust mm (Inch) 6.970-6.949 (0.274-0.2736)
Valve Springs?€"
Compression Pressure N @
Spec. Length?€"Intake 587.14 N @ 28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"
Compression Pressure N @
Spec. Length?€"Exhaust 587.14 N @
28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"Free
Length ( Approximate)?€"
Intake mm (Inch) 49.55 (1.951)
Valve Springs?€"Free
Length (Approximate)?€"
Exhaust mm (Inch) 49.55 (1.951)
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Intake 244.64 N @ 40.0 mm
Valve Spring?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Exhaust 244.64 N @ 40.0 mm
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Service Limit 10 % Pressure Less @ 28.02 mm
Valve Springs?€"Installed
Pressure N @ Spec. Length
?€"Out of Square Limit 2 degrees
Valve Guide Inner
Diameter mm (Inch) 7.015-7.044 (0.2761-0.2773)
Rocker Arm?€"Ratio 1.75:1
Valve Tappet?€"Diameter
(STD) mm (Inch) 16.000-15.988 (0.66-0.629)
Valve Tappet?€"Clearance
to Bore mm (Inch) 0.018-0.069
(0.00071-0.00272)
Valve Tappet?€"Service
Limit mm (Inch) 0.016 (0.00063)
Valve Tappet?€"Hydraulic
Leakdown Rate b 5-25 seconds
Valve Tappet?€"Collapsed
Valve Tappet Gap?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0.085-0.45 (0.0033-0.0177)
Camshaft
Lobe Lift?€"Intake
mm (Inch) 6.58939 (0.2594)
Lobe Lift?€"Exhaust
mm (Inch) 6.58939 (0.2594)
Lobe Lift?€"Allowable
Lobe Lift Loss mm (Inch) 0 (0)
Theoretical Valve Lift @
Zero Lash?€"Intake
mm (Inch) 12.0 (0.472)
Theoretical Valve Lift @
Zero Lash?€"Exhaust
mm (Inch) 12.0 (0.472)
End Play mm (Inch) 0.025-0.165
(0.00098-0.0065)
Journal to Bearing
Clearance mm (Inch) 0.025-0.076
(0.00098-0.003
Journal to Bearing
Clearance?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.021 (0.0048)
Journal Diameter (All)
mm (Inch) 26.962-26.936
(1.061-1.060)
Journal Diameter (All)?€"
Bearing Inside Diameter
(All) mm (Inch) 27.012-26.987
(1.063-1.0625)
Camshaft Runout
mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Cylinder Bore
Diameter?€"Surface Finish
(RMS) 0.2-0.6 Microns
Diameter?€"Out-of-Round
Limit mm (Inch) 0.015 (0.0006)
Diameter?€"Out-of-Round
Service Limit mm (Inch) 0.020 (0.00079)
Diameter?€"Taper Service
Limit mm (Inch) 0.006 (0.00023)
Piston
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Red 1 mm (Inch) 90.177-90.197
(3.550-3.551)
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Blue 2 mm (Inch) 90.190-90.210
(3.5507-3.5515)
Piston?€"Diameter?€"
Coded Yellow 3 mm (Inch) 90.203-90.223
(3.513-3.5521)
Piston-to-Bore-Clearance
mm (Inch) -0.015 + 0.031 (0.0005-0.0012)
Pin Bore Diameter
mm (Inch) 22.0015-22.004
(0.866-0.8663)
Ring Groove Width?€"
Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.520-1.550 (0.06-0.610)
Ring Groove Width?€"
Compression (Bottom)
mm (Inch) 1.520-1.530 (0.060-0.0602)
Ring Groove Width?€"Oil
Ring mm (Inch) 6.996-7.224 (0.275-0.2844)
Piston Pin?€"Length
mm (Inch) 61.93-62.05 (2.44-2.443)
Diameter mm (Inch) 21.994-21.999
(0.866-0.8661)
Pin to Piston Clearance
mm (Inch) 0.005-0.010
(0.0002-0.0004)
Pin to Rod Clearance
mm (Inch) 0.015-0.040
(0.0006-0.00157)
Piston Rings?€"Ring Gap
?€"Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.0 MAX (0.0394)
Piston Rings?€"Ring Gap
?€"Compression (Top)
mm (Inch) 1.0 MAX (0.0394)
Oil Ring?€"Side Clearance
mm (Inch) 1.25 MAX (0.05)
Oil Ring?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.040-0.090
(0.0016-0.0031)
Oil Ring?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.030-0.080
(0.0012-0.00031)
Oil Ring Snug Fit
Oil Ring?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.015 MAX (0.0006)
Ring Gap?€"Compression
(Top) mm (Inch) 0.23-0.49
(0.01-0.02)
Ring Gap?€"Compression
(Bottom) mm (Inch) 0.23-0.49
(0.01-0.02)
Ring Gap?€"Oil Ring (Steel
Rail) mm (Inch) 0.05-0.66 (0.006-0.026)
Lubrication System
Oil Capacity?€"Automatic
Transmission (Quarts U.S.) 6.675?±0.125
Oil Capacity?€"Manual
Transmission (Quarts U.S.) 6.425?±0.125
Cylinder Block
Main Bearing Bore
Diameter mm (Inch) 72.401-72.422 (2.85-2.851)
Crankshaft and Flywheel
Main Bearing Journal
Diameter mm (Inch) 67.483-67-503 (2.65-2.657)
Connecting Rod Journal?€"
Diameter mm (Inch) 52.988-53.003
(2.0861-2.0867)
Crankshaft Free End Play
mm (Inch) 0.130-0.301 (0.0051-0.012)
Crankshaft Runout to Rear
Face of Block mm (Inch) 0.050 MAX (0.002)
Connecting Rod Bearings
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0.027-0.069 (0.001-0.0027)
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Allowable mm (Inch) 0.027-0/069 (0.001-0.0027)
Bearing Wall Thickness
(STD) mm (Inch) 2.44-2.452 (0.096-0.0965)
Main Bearings
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Desired mm (Inch) 0027-0.065
(0.0011-0.0026)
Clearance to Crankshaft?€"
Allowable mm (Inch) 0.027-0.065
(0.0011-0.0026)
Bearing Wall Thickness
(STD) mm (Inch) 1.920-1.928 (0.075-0.076)
Connecting Rod, Piston and Rings
Connecting Rod?€"Piston
Pin Bore Diameter
mm (Inch) 21.959-21.979
(0.864-0.865)
Connecting Rod?€"
Crankshaft Bearing Bore
Diameter mm (Inch) 56.756-56.876 (2.234-2.24)
Connecting Rod?€"Length
(Center-to-Center)
mm (Inch) 150.7 (5.93)
Alignment (Bore-to-Bore
Max. Diff.) c ?€"Twist
mm (Inch) 0.050 per 25 (0.0015-0.984)
Alignment (Bore-to-Bore
Max. Diff.)?€"Bend
mm (Inch) 0.038 per 25 (0.0015-0.984)
Side Clearance (Assembled
to Crank)?€"Standard
mm (Inch) 0.015-0.45 (0.0006-0.0177)
Side Clearance (Assembled
to Crank)?€"Service Limit
mm (Inch) 0.05 MAX (0.02)
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Journal Taper mm (Inch) 0.020 (0.0007)
Crankshaft Main Bearing
Journal Runout mm (Inch) 0.05 (0.002)
Crankshaft Connecting Rod
Journal Taper mm (Inch) 0.015 (0.0006)
0helpful
1answer

How difficult is it to replace valves in a 85 Toyota Pickup?

It can be done, but it is classified under the engine overhaul reconditioning, which can be time consuming and expensive for an engine machinist to do. To do it yourself is not usually recommended.--- REMOVAL & INSTALLATION A valve spring compressor is needed to remove the valves and springs; these are available at most auto parts and auto tool shops. A small magnet is very helpful for removing the keepers and spring seats. Set the head on its side on the bench. Install the spring compressor so that the fixed side of the tool is flat against the valve head in the combustion chamber, and the screw side is against the retainer. Slowly turn the screw in towards the head, compressing the spring. As the spring compresses, the keepers will be revealed; pick them off of the valve stem with the magnet as they are easily fumbled and lost. When the keepers are removed, back the screw out and remove the retainers and springs. Remove the compressor and pull the valves out of the head from the other side. Remove the valve seals by hand and remove the spring seats with the magnet. Fig. 1: After compressing the valve spring, be careful removing the keepers--they are easily fumbled 85783113.gif
Fig. 2: Always install new valve stem seals 85783114.gif
Fig. 3: Lightly tap each assembled valve stem to ensure correct fit of the keepers, retainer and seals 85783115.gif
Fig. 4: Special tool to remove the valve spring--you also need tool to hold valve up 85783273.jpg
Fig. 5: Removing the keepers with a magnet 85783274.jpg
Fig. 6: Removing the valve spring 85783275.jpg
Fig. 7: Removing the valve seal 85783276.jpg
Fig. 8: Installing the valve seal 85783277.jpg
Since it is very important that each valve and its spring, retainer, spring seat and keepers is reassembled in its original location, you must keep these parts in order. The best way to do this to cut either eight (four cylinder) or twelve (six cylinder) holes in a piece of heavy cardboard or wood. Label each hole with the cylinder number and either IN EXp>After lapping each valve into its seat (see Valve Lapping below), oil each valve stem, and install each valve into the head in the reverse order of removal, so that all parts except the keepers are assembled on the stem. Always use new valve stem seals. Install the spring compressor, and compress the retainer and spring until the keeper groove on the valve stem is fully revealed. Coat the groove with a wipe of grease (to hold the keepers until the retainer is released) and install both keepers, wide end up. Slowly back the screw of the compressor out until the spring retainer covers the keepers. Remove the tool. Lightly tap the end of each valve stem with a rubber hammer to ensure proper fit of the retainers and keepers. prev.gif next.gif
3helpful
2answers

My 1998 Buick Lesabre ,I just had an oil change, it just developed has noisy lifters. Also the antifreeze reservoir is always losing the fluid, I am always refilling.

Suggest you check your exhaust on startup, is it very steamed up. Unless you see fluid on the ground after you have been driving, it may be being burnt inside the engine via a leaking head gasket, causing part of the head to misfire, 1 or 2 cyls. Is the oil milky? a sure sign of a leaking manifold gasket. At the end of the day, the coolant must be going somewhere, if its not on the floor, its in the head/manifold. A manifold leak is not so bad, Head gasket is not so good..worth doing a compression test and block test if you can.Also, change the oil again and put in at lest 10W-30 weight, your car is too old for 5/20 5/30...Hope that helps..Tim
0helpful
1answer

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Compressor is OK meaning your valves are still good. However the Valve- Stem seals need to be replaced. The seals have function to limit the lubricating oil amount the valve train. When they are worn out, too much of oil gets in to the valve area then get burnt out to the exhaust causing oil consumption. These valve can be replaced at a shop without taking the head off the engine. Although it sounds simple but not all the shop want to do this, since they want to take the head out to make more money. So check around until you find one. The work is to put air compressor at the spark plug location to hold a valve up so the valve-stem seal could be replaced from above. This will be repeated for every valve on the engine. Although not being an auto mechanic, I did on mine and fount it was at medium level of difficulty. Good luck.
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