Well it started by notcing if i kept the clutch to the floor for a light, or waiting for watever reason that when i released the pedal.. the clutch would grab almost immedialty , i would have to pump the pedal a bit.. and then it would operate correctly , for a little while anyways.. i guess ive spewed all the fluid out of the line now and have no idea where the bleed screw is for it on the transmission.. i see where the leak is and thankfully its Not in the bellhouse side of the line.. however i am curious as to how its completely dry , i know that the clutch and brakes use the same resevoir and the brakes are still rock solid.. .. any ideas or advice would be capital.. i want to get it working so i can drive it to a shop.. and not have to get it towed for even more money...
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Re: Leak in hydraulic clutchline at firewall
You need to replace the master cylinders, it is leaking down the hoses and into the firewall, it is highly corrosive. as far as bleeding it, i never remember doing that, i just remember pumping it till all the air bubbles floated to the top. you may also ba able to find a rebuild kit for the master sylinder, but prolly not.
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clutch pedals are suposed to go all the way to the floor , you sure you dont mean brake pedal (cus thats bad ! ) clutches should travel all the way to floor and release the "grab" of the engine about 2/3 down , this way they are more smoothly allowing shifting thru the gears and not jerking as you shift thru the gears , if clutch pedal does not start to "grab" the engines power by 2/3 off the floor and fully "grab"its power all the way up(slipping) ,and you have a hydraulic clutch (96's do) then the clutch disk may require replacement or there is a oil leak in the clutch/master/slave cylinder , look for small oil leaks from under car in area of foot pedals
clutches should be replaced as an assembly that includes , disk ,pressure plate, throwout bearing , with engine side clutch plate magnafluxed for heat cracks and any hydraulic oil leaks replaced or repaired
Well, you size the wrench needed for the bleed valve on the slave cylinder, mounted on the transmission housing 8 or 10 mm in most cases. Make sure the clutch reservoir is full, and kept full. Then you'll need a trusted assistant to work the pedal-one who will understand the reasoning and procedure behind bleeding a hydraulic system of air trapped inside the lines-it hinders hydraulic pressure on the clutch fork to make the clutch work at all. I say trusted because you dont wanna make it an unpleasant experience (I've participated in quite enough of those videos!) Patiently explain that the clutch pedal should be depressed slowly and steadily to the floor after you have opened the bleed valve and kept depressed to the floor until you have closed the valve. So just as the pedal starts traveling down, open the bleed valve, fluid is forced down through the line and out the open valve. Best if you close it just before the pedal reaches the floor-as soon as pressure is let off, air has a chance to re-enter through the open valve, so close it quick. A couple of times should do it-when you have a steady stream of fluid, no more air, and you know the line is bled of any possibility of air, then finish tighten the bleed valve, not too tight. Check the reservoir again, and take your trusted associate to dinner.
It can only be coming from the clutch master cylinder, the end that is bolted to the firewall, and that the push rod from your clutch pedal enters into. You will have to take it off for repair or replacement.
Newer vehicles utilize a hydraulic clutch. The clutch has a hydraulic cylinder and a slave cylinder and this is most likely the culprit. Inspect both -- they are located on the drivers side of the engine firewall.Remove and replace and you should be good to go... Best regards Ck
you need to inspect the clutch hydraulic system to look for a leak.check in the truck were the master cylinder bolts to the firewall as if the master is leaking out the back it will show up the leak in this area.check around the master under the hood to see if there are signs of it leaking.check at the transmission were the slave cylinder is as this is another place they leak.if you have to fill the master because its empty there is a leak somewhere.you also may need the clutch replaced as the slave cylinder moves out to adjust for wear of the clutch which will lower the fluid level but not cause it to be empty.you will have to bleed the clutch system at the slave cylinder,there should be a bleeder screw to do this.if you find the leak in the clutch system you will have to replace the system as some come complete master lines and slave.some come with just the slave,lines,master as separate components.
depending on whether the clutch is cable or hydraulic, the issue could be in the linkage (if cable), and you may have to adjust the cable so that when the pedal is on the floor the clutch is fully disengaged..if hydraulic, try bleeding the clutch cylinder. if that doesn't solve the problem, then you may have a leak in the line leading to the clutch
The problem could come from the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder. The cause could be external or internal.
First check the fluid level in the reservoir. The reservoir could be independent of the brake system or using the same.
If the level is too low, air may have entered in the line and the hydraulic compression is affected. So first, adjust the level in the reservoir using recommended oil. (normally brake oil is ok).
Check for any oil leak starting from the clutch pedal following hydraulic circuit up to the transmission.
Your vehicule should have two clutch cylinders: the master and the slave.
The master cylinder is operated by your clutch pedal, it's located under the dash, fixed to the firewall and connected to the hydraulic line on the other side of the firewall. Check for any leak on the carpet, under the carpet and near the hydraulic connection. Pumping the pedal making that verification could help to detect leak. Then follow the hydraulic line going to the slave cylinder attached to the transmission making a visual inspection for leaks.
If for any reason some air entered the circuit, the line could be purged from air bleeding the slave cyclinder as you do bleeding brake component.
If there is no air, no leak detected then it's probably an internal problem that you can't see. Remove the cap from the reservoir, depress the pedal. If the oil is moving in the reservoir then the master slave is probably bad otherwise I would suspect the slave.
I'm not an Isuzu technician.
Some other Gurus could complement or correct my saying.
Hope it will help
a clutch pedal that doesn't return back to you is sometimes a symptom of a failing clutch slave or general fluid leak. This is of course referring to a hydraulic clutch. If your fluid gets too low or there is an air leak your pedal will stick to the floor and not return.
It's a hydraulic system on the Audi. Using a master cylinder (nearer pedal and firewall) and a slave cylinder (at clutch release bearing itself, or on side of tranny. Owner's manual should give location for a reservoir to check. Similar but smaller than brake master cylinder reservoir if that helps. The system uses brake fluid, and you either have a leak, a lack, or a loss of this fluid, and/or pressure to the clutch. Sounds like you need qualified service, these systems need REAL diagnosis before you start buying parts. ALso can be hard to bleed completely free of air after parts are installed.