2005 toyota solara convertible rear window defroster
The rear window defroster doesn't heat up very much and doesn't defrost. the main 40amp fuse is OK and all other fuses are also all OK. tested the grid and can get it to go to ground - so i don't think the problem is the grid on the window.
toyota wants $95/hour for up to 6 hours to find out where the problem is.
Re: 2005 toyota solara convertible rear window defroster
2006 Solara Comvertible - same problem as everyone else. The defroster just stopped working (well, 2 lines in the upper portion work somewhat) several months back. The light comes on and obviously power is there since 2 of the lines do something. The dealer also told me the WHOLE top would have to be replaced...thousands of dollars. I thought I might have to replace the window but apparently that can't even be done. They actually told me a repair kit exists to do it yourself at Pep Boys, yet they won't attempt to fix. Pep Boys confirmed kit exists but won't tounch it either, Window replacement company won't either. So, again the consumer is screwed, I guess. Obviously if those paid to do mechanical work can't or won't do it, why would a novice be able to? I am so angry! No more Toyotas for me. My buying experience was a whole other story that turned me off from this car to start with. Probably when someone gets killed, they will be forced to look at this. Convertibles are notorious for poor visibility in the rear and now with the windshield completely frosted or covered with snow and iced while driving due to the weather conditions, it is UNSAFE! Is there any help for this problem?
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Can't supply a diagram, but the circuit works as follows: Power for the defrost grid is obtained through 30A fuse 22 in the battery junction box (BJB) and is applied to terminal 30 of the rear window defrost relay. Power for the relay is obtained through 5A fuse 22 in the CJB and applied to terminal 2 of the rear window defrost switch. When the switch is operated, power is applied to the coil of the rear window defrost relay, causing contact closure and heating of the grid. There is no timeout circuit shown so apparently power is applied to the grid whenever the car is running.
Check the fuse it should be labeled in the fuse panel as rear def. If its blown replace it and if that doesnt fix it or if the fuse blows again then u have an electrical problem and will need to have a technician look at it.
Using a 12 volt test lamp, check for power at the connection to the grid. If no power there, check fuses, and switch. If there is power at the connection, look closely for a break in the continuity of the grid. Usually right near where the wires connect. If broken, parts stores can fix you up with a conductive glue. Common problem, and the glue is cheap, and works great. Good luck!
First thing to do is test these fuses with a tester light. Check the A/C cruise control fuse 10 amp (left side of dash in panel), heated mirror fuse 10 amp (right side of dash in panel), this is also where you will find the circuit breaker and relay for the rear defroster. Test the breaker for power in and out. Feel the relay to see if it clicks when you turn on the rear defrost
Hello. The rear defroster isn't affected by a/c operation. The most common issue I see in my shop is the rear grid damaged. The wire you see in the rear glass is a resistor type conductor which builds heat as electricity passes through it. If the grid wires get scratched it is like a broken wire and will not build up heat as there is an interruption in the flow. First thing is verify your fuses are good and the indicator light comes on when the switch is depressed.If they are OK proceed to the next check. If you look carefully at each side of the glass there is a wire connected to the grid. If these have come loose or become corroded that is where your problem has most likely occurred. To test it a 12 volt test light or a multimeter should light or read battery voltage applied at each side of the glass grid. If indeed the grid is damaged there is a repair kit available to fill in the gap at your local auto supplier. Hope this helps you with your repair.
check your fuses first,with a test light,then if you have power there take your test light and turn on the rear defroster and probe the wires that connect to the rear defroster in the rear window.if you have power there it is a faulty defroster in the glass
is it a possibility the heating element on the window has an open break somewhere? the only way to find out actually is to have it tested in the shop.. if there is a relay it is under the hood and in a main covered fuse box. possibly, so to say...