I have 1987 Mazda B2200 2.2 ltre, turns, fires, no fuel psi.
I have 1987 Mazda B2200 2.2 ltre, carb, w/electric fuel pump. Its turns over, sparks, and does not get fuel. New pump installed, no signal (12VDC) to 3 pin connector going to tank. Can not locate fuel pump control box or any sort of inertia device. Do Not have wiring schematics to determine fuel sytsem devices and locales. Can you help me out here? Thanks...Thomas
Re: I have 1987 Mazda B2200 2.2 ltre, turns, fires, no...
I had something like this before. There is a fuel saftey switch near the gas tank right by the rear end. Its a roll over sensor and mine fell off the mount and I guess the truck thought it was upside down :)
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fuses are always first.
you said no power to the coil that means 12vdc power.
so hows car run with no power to coil no electric power?
ok, seems its , running good, then you lose engine power (not usage of word engine) then you find loss of 12vdc power to the ignition coil
you blew a fuse.
1987, carb engine
no engine stated, making any spark help near impossible
2.5L Vin H, TBI injection
4.2.L Vin C, 2bbl carb.
apples and oranges different (huge difference)
the 4.2 liter gets power from a ballast resistor.
on the yellow wire . the igntion switch feeds the this resistor
the green wire, goes to the ignition module.
this wire reads 12v key on, then when cranked, or running
the module grounds the green wire for about 5/1000s of second
and then release this ground making Inductive spark (Tesla action)
. that is how the 4.2 works.
If there is fuel to the fuel injectors in the top of the throttle body TBI (Throttle Body Injection) but they do not function, then most likely there is no signal or pulse to the fuel injectors. Check the ECM and the Fuel Injection fuses first.
The ignition module and the pick-up coil/stator located inside of the distributor is what generates the signal that the ECM (Engine Control Module) uses to time and fire the fuel injectors, as well as the signal to run the fuel pump and the dwell signal timing to fire the ignition coil, and a faulty ignition module can cause any one of these systems or all of them to malfunction.
That does sound like a malfunction with the ignition module inside of the distributor, and you can remove the ignition module and have it tested for free at most auto part stores. If the ignition module does test out alright then the problem could still be in the pick-up coil/stator, (it can be tested using an ohm meter by dis-connecting the wire connector from the pick-up coil/stator and the ohm reading between the two wires from the pick-up coil/stator should be between 500 and 1500 ohm's, and both of the wires from the pick-up coil/stator should show an open loop or an infinite reading between each wire and ground) and if the pick-up coil/stator is found to be faulty then replace the entire distributor, or the distributor will have to be dis-assembled to install a new pick-up coil/stator.
If you do purchase a new ignition module be sure that it does come with a silicone grease or a die-electric compound because it is a heat sink and the ignition module will burn up without it.
To install the new ignition module first clean out the mounting surface inside of the distributor. Then completely coat the metal contact surface under the ignition module with a thick coat the silicone grease or die-electric compound and do not leave any of the metal contact surface of the ignition module un-coated with the silicone grease or die-electric compound, and be very careful not to over-tighten the ignition module or it will be damaged.
Uncouple the fuel line coming from the pump at the carburetor, place a clean can under the line, and have someone operate the starter--you should have fuel shoot from the line in spurts as the engine turns. If it does, then the entry port on the carburetor is plugged. Remove the float assembly and pull out the float needle valve. Hook the fuel line back to the carburetor and try the starter again, there should be fuel pumping into the float bowl. If not, check to see if there is a filter on the fuel inlet path that may be plugged. If no filter, remove the float needle seat to see if something is blocking the fuel passage. If all else fails, use compressed air to blow backwards through the needle seat (remove the fuel line again). Hope some of this helps!