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Hi Anonymous, The links below are YouTube videos showing how to repair threads, Also there's videos down the right side of the link that may help as well....................CHEERS.. Repairing Stripped out Sparkplug Threads
Without more information, like make and model, I'll have to give you a generic answer:
1. Unplug the plug wire from the plug
2. Place a plug socket over the plug
3. Use a socket driver to un-screw the sparkplug
1. set the new plug's gap to the manufactures recommendation.
2. Lubricate the threads of the new plug with lithium anti-sieze grease (lightly, an amount the size of a grain of rice is plenty)
3. Hand-thread the new plug in as far as you can hand-turn it.
4. Put the socket wrench on it, tighten no more than 1/2 to 3/4 turn after the gasket contacts the head.
5. Replace the wire on the plug's top.
On some cars, the space to get to the plugs is very limited. I've changed plugs where the plugs were between the exhaust pipes, or behind the alternator.
With you hood open and you are standing in front of the car sparkplug wires need to be removed,i suggest you remove them one at a time, under each wire the sparkplug is threaded into the cylinder head,using a 5/8 sparkplug socket remove the sparkplug and replace it with new properly gapped sparkplug.Note:if you remove all sparkplug wires at once the factory wires are generally numbered 1 2 3 4 the sparkplug closesed to the passenger fender is #1 and the one clossesed to the driver's fender is #4.Standing in front of vehicle the PCV Valve is located between #3 and #4 on the backside(intake side) of the engine fitted down into a rubber hose
It is best to torque the head down in steps. First round is at 25lbs, second at 45, third at 110 except for bolt #11 which is at 100lbs. Sequence is in a spiral, #1 is the one on the opposite side of the head at the center if you are standing on the left side of the engine (intake side). Next is the one closest to you below #1, #3 is the one just to the left of that one,#4 is the one above it. #5 is the first to the right of #1, #6 is just below it, #7 is to the left of#3...get the idea? 11is the one at the left bottom corner of the head (that's the one that only gets torqued to 100.) It's always good practice to run a tap of the proper thread size into each bolt hole on the block and to use thread sealer on the bolt threads to prevent coolant seepage past the threads into the oil. Always make sure that both the block deck and head mating surface are 100% clean and free of any gasket material or residue. Good Luck!!
step # 1 tighten 25 ft lbs,
step# 2 tighten 90%
step # 3 tighten another 90%
note do in sequence start closest to belt one head at a time start at the bottom 1 then to the top all the way to the other side is 2 then back to other side on top now is 3 then back to other side bottom is 4 keep do this working your way to the center do this with each step thats the sequence. hope this helps. note thses are strech bolts use new ones dont reuse old ones, put a little oil on threads. good luck.
try these , maybe its the same directions .1.) turn key off . 2.) use a fused wire , maybe your new remote came with a short wire , under your driver side dash is a connector that looks like this >
push 1 end of the wire into the A hole , and the other end into the G hole , the door locks should lock and unlock , 3.) press the unlock button on the new remote , the door locks should lock and unlock . 4.) repeat this procedure if you have another remote you want to register . 5.) now disconnect that jumper wire , and test the functionality of your remote(s) . see what that does for ya .