I just had the oil changed , transmission serviced and fuel filters changed on my truck. Realized the company Davis Tire in Austin,TX, didn't change the air filter and it was really dirty. I am traveling and NOW it is running really bad and check engine light is on. any suggestions on what it might be?
It could just be the filter, diesels are sensitive to air needs, but if the check engine light is on a quick scan will point the problem out..
SOURCE: My 2001 Ford F350 diesel
I'm assuming that this is an intermitent fault; are you make an scanning fault codes? Several items here, O2 sensors, camshaft, MAF/MAP, IAC, fuel pressure, bad injector, etc.
This is the firts step, check the OBD codes for knowed exactly what fault is there.
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SOURCE: ford f350 diesel engine service
changing your oil has nothing to do with a check engine light. a disconnect of the battery wont clear a code anymore.only way out is to have the code cleared with a scan tool which it will most likely come back on until you have the problem repaired
SOURCE: 97 F350 diesel check engine light stays on and is running rough?
Ok, lets take this from the top. I have a 97 f250 diesel. In mid may mine did the same thing. It's either one of two things. You have under valve cover harnesses (uvc). They slide in under your valve covers, you will see two wiring harnesses on the outside of the valve cover gaskets on either side of the block. Ok, it IS possible one of these slipped out of place and killed two of your injectors, causing the horrible running/ low idle/no power/ sounds like the truck is going to stall symptoms. The easiest way to check that is to unplug the wires while the truck is running and see if it kills the engine, if it doesen't unplug the other one on the same side of the valve cover. If both of these don't cause any change then you have a bigger problem, the IDM (Injector drive module).
FAIR WARNING: When you unplug the wires with the truck on it is extremely dangerous, it is 110 volt feed. It can kill you.
OK, the IDM is a silver box, 8"x10" approx dimensions, located on the driver side under the hood, over top the front tire. If you take the wires you unplugged and take a multi meter to them and they are dead, you have a bad IDM. This was the case with my truck. Ford designed the IDM to have a hole in the side to allow condensation to escape from it, unfortunately, this allows water inside and will short out resistors and practically kill half of your engine. Buy a new IDM on ebay for about $380. It takes 5 minuts to put it in.
I hope this helps you out man.
SOURCE: starting problem with ford f350
Need to check the glow plug system. Follow the battry cables as the glow pug system uses big cables and the glow plug relay is right on top of the middle of the motor. The realy is cycled on and off by the cold start system and it should make a loud click as the key is first turned on. the relay powers up the wait to start light on the dash and if this light doesn't come on you know wher this is headed. The realys burn out as do every connection to itand the battrycable. the wires as they go to the glow plugs themselves and if you've been using starting fluild instead of wd40 or a safe desiel starting fluild the tips of the glow plugs may be blown off and they will need to be changed too. the wires as they connect to the glow plugs on back to the battery need to be removed cleaned and reinstalled. with the wire removed from the glow plug a meter needs to be used to see if a connection though the glow plug to ground is there if not the glow plug needs to be replaced. Not all the glow pugs have to be bad but if you've started it a lot with either it's likly thier all bad. If the glow plugs check out and cleaning all the wire connections and a test light proves the glow plugs are getting power and it still won't start with out starting fluild, You may have knocked it enough with the starting fluild to crack the piston rings and it's down on compression. theirs a temperture senser that decides how long the glow plugs are on before the light goes out to tell you to crank it. and yes if the starter won't crank it fast enough as the batteries are low or the starters worn out then it won't start without fluild either. WD40 is way safer that starting fluild as the engine doesn't knock as hard, and make it into an either freak, (Needs either no matter what to start). The electronic thorttle control is just that and the gas pedal has a senser on it that gets dirty and it's made by the same peaple that were involved in the big Toyoda recall and your truck maybe a recall in this area too call your dealer with your VIN and they'll tell you about the recalls and bullitins that apply to your truck and if thier are any I'd be right on down there to get them. A runaway desiel is no fun, Hope your breaks are good as it'll not shut off.
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thanks...hope I can make it to the dealership.
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