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probably not --- engineers are not cooperative in that manner and freeze plugs ( welsh plugs ) are in the most inconvenient positions
best advice here is if one is rusted out then the rest are close behind and if you have to pull the transmission , rather pull the engine , put it on an engine stand and do the lot as the others are in bad spots as well
Remove the serpentine belt, remove the lower crankshaft pulley, place a jack under the oil pan and jack up the engine slightly, remove the engine mount (right top). Remove the timing belt cover, loosen the timing belt tensioner and pull tensioner pulley back toward the rear of vehicle. I like to then tighten the tensioner bolt to hold it in this position, remove and replace belt. If you need to put the engine in time then look at the camshaft there is a small arrow in the center, it lines up with a dot on the end of the cylinder head. The lower timing mark is a small metal tip that sticks out from the lower gear, and it lines up with a notch cut into the front cover just behind the lower gear. Once aligned properly put the belt on the lower gear and without turning the lower gear or camshaft gear pull the belt tight up to the cam shaft the cogs in the belt will line up with the grooves, then place the belt around the water pump drive gear and under the tensioner, then push the belt over all gears by hand without turning the engine. Loosen the tensioner bolt and apply a little pressure toward the front of the vehicle and tighten the bolt. Replace everything else previously removed. Engine should start and run normally.
if you can physically access them, no you would not have to remove the engine, but given the orientation of the motor and trans I highly doubt you can get to all of them without pulling the engine....also I must ask, why do you need to do this? unless the are leaking... typically these should no need replacing unless they have popped out due to the block freezing..
Remove the old one and tap in the new one with a hammer and a socket that fits inside of it. Can you actually reach the leaking freeze plug without pulling the engine? Maybe try some leak sealer like Blue Devil instead and leave in the old freeze plug.
If you are wanting to replace the factory freeze plug with a similar type, I'm afraid that the easiest / only way is to pull the engine.
What some people do is replace the factory style freeze plug with an expandable rubber plug. The plug has a bolt through it and as you tighten the bolt/nut the rubber expands sealing the hole. If you can get the plug out, you can replace it with this style without having to remove the engine. You only need enough clearance to get a wrench on it. Be sure to check the plug for the first few months as sometimes they get loose as the rubber "settles" in.
If you don't want to replace with a expanding rubber plug what you might can try is supporting the engine using a jack and removing the engine mount and the engine mount bracket. That "might" give you enough room to work but I doubt it. There probably isn't enough clearance to get a hammer or a metal rod to the plug.
When removing the freeze plug be careful not to accidentally knock it into the engine block. THAT is a real PITA.
this does sound like a head problem (hopefully just the gasket). pulling the head with the exhaust manifold attached is possible but tricky and difficult. risking the bolt and drilling it out if it snaps would be alot easier. I would strongly suggest having the head checked while its off (so you dont rebuild to find that you wasted time and money on a bad head)
Jack the engine up,use a jack,and a thick piece of wood,and put it under the crank pulley,remove he pin-bolt from the mount,and jack the engine up,make sure nothing is going to hit at the top,fan,and the rear near firewall,then remove the mount,and the bracket for the mount to access the freeze plug.
Major job without the right tools! There are freeze plugs hidden by the bell housing on the trans. If you can see the plug without pulling the trans, use a long punch and knock the plug out(poke a hole in one edge and pry out).If you can't see the plug pull the trans. replace the plug. (you need an engine holder to hold the engine in place from the top.
You should not have to pull the motor to replace any of the freeze plugs, except the 2 on back of engine block witch requires engine removel or trans. removel. Depending on witch one thats leaking. There are 3 on each side, and 2 on the rear of engine, most common one to leak is the one above the starter, witch requires starter removel, there is one in the middle thats you have to jack up engine to remove engine mount to get too. There all located below exhaust manafold on each side. They are a bear to chg. but can be done without engine removel.