I have a 1999 Mazda protege' I had to replace the transmission the first transmissio i drove on it 1 day then it wouldn't change over put a 2nd one in it the same thing happenned what's th

SOURCE: 1997 Mazda protege transmission, Hard shifting from 1st gear

I would try a flush. If its set up like my 96, and it likely is, changing the trasmission gasket and filter will be difficult. Mine has a medal plug on the bottom and takes an allen wrench, and possibly a breaker bar. If you take out this plug, drain, flush then refill via the dipstick tube and a funnel, it may help. You may need to do this a couple of times due to fluid still in the torque converter, pan, etc.
Lucas is good stuff, I would add it again when I was done. The tranny fluid should be pink, mine looked like used oil black before I flushed it.
Also, when adding the new fluid, shift slowly up and down through all of the gears to lube well and check your fluid levels after 100 miles or so, as sometimes a bubble will form and make it look full....then not after it pops.

SOURCE: overdrive transmission

O/D light flashing is computer indicating an issue with the transmission -no surprise. Make sure the transmission fluid is still good (dosn't smell burnt, right level). Slipping could be the TCC (torque Converter clutch) - not a cheap part - but would only really slip in 4th gear (above 40 mph). Slipping before that could be numerous things in the trans (low fluid pressure, torque converter issues).
I would be tempted to replace the fluid anyhow, but there is a chance an expensive issue is starting to arise - and replacing the fluid on a failing transmission could cause it to fail 100% (or can fix it nearly 100%). These can be touchy transmissions, too much DIY without the right diagnostic tools can be bad. Not what you wanted to hear, and not an expert, but have had some expertise with these.hope that helps.

SOURCE: 2002 Mazda Protege ABS & Brake light

It is most likely caused by one of the ABS wheel speed sensors, those little cylindrical nipples on the back of your rotors with the cable attached to them. One way to confirm it is to read out the OBD2 codes for the ABS system, but there are some checks you can do. Visually check all four cables and sensors , and make sure there is no build up on the sensors. Make sure that the connector they plug into has good connections. Look at the wheel speed sensor and make sure the gap between the sensor head and the sprocket is the same on all four wheels (should be no more than a mm). Disconnect the wheel speed sensor cable and use an ohm-meter to check the resistance of all four sensors (they should all be similar, but don't remember the value exactly). There is a way to just disable the ABS by pulling out the 60A fuse, but if you do that you may have to plug in a code reader and use a grounding jumper on the ABS electical access box (don't remember which pin) to reset the ABS faults, otherwise you won't be able to drive around like that because your engine rpm at high speeds will behave erratically. Also, do not drive around without fixing this problem or bypassing ABS completely because it could get you into an accident. My ABS problem was intermittent, and the ABS would sometimes kick in on completely dry pavement as soon as I touched the break pedal, it almost caused me to rear-end a car on couple of occasions.

SOURCE: DTC P0106 mazda protege. code came on, cleared

Check connections etc at MAP sensor. If all good, replace it. Erase codes & retry. How's vehicle running, idling, any black smoke out tailpipe?

SOURCE: need to no step bye

Hi,

HOW TO INSPECT EGR VALVE

Before attempting to troubleshoot or repair a suspected exhaust gas recirculation (EGR) system on a vehicle, the following conditions should be checked and be within specifications.

• Engine is mechanically sound.
• Injection system is operating properly.
• Mechanical-vacuum advance is properly adjusted or the electronic advance system is operating properly.

If one or more of these conditions is faulty or operating incorrectly, perform the necessary tests and services to correct the problem before servicing the EGR system.




Before attempting any tests of the EGR system, visually inspect the condition of all vacuum hoses for kinks, bends, cracks, and flexibility. Replace defective hoses as required. Check vacuum hose routing. (See the underhood decal or the manufacturer's service manual for correct routing.) Correct any misrouted hoses. If the emissions system if fitted with an exhaust-gas-recirculation valve position (EVP) sensor, the wires routed to it should also be checked.
If the EGR valve remains open at idle and low engine speed, the idle operation is rough and surging occurs at low speeds. When this problem is present, the engine may hesitate on low-speed acceleration or stall after deceleration or after a cold start. If the EGR valve does not open, engine detonation occurs. When a defect occurs in the EGR system, a diagnostic trouble code (DTC) is usually set in the powertrain control module (PCM) memory.

Cont....