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96 Landcruiser Itermittent starting problem, won't shut off

I have an intermittent problem: Here's the scenario: you will start the car and it runs very rough, and several indicator lights come on (AT Temp, EM Break and Oil Pan). When you turn off the ignition and pull out the key, the engine will still attempt to run although still very rough (I would describe that it is running as if you had it in 3rd gear and were attempting to start from a dead stop), but is accompanied by a grinding sound as if you were trying to start the car. Then you attempt to restart and may have no problems the 2nd time. Most recently, this bad start happened several times in a row when my wife was driving, and she had no choice but to drive the <1 mile home with the engine running very rough. We have taken it to our mechanic, but have been unable to duplicate the problem. Help!

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5 Suggested Answers

virgils
  • 39 Answers

SOURCE: 1999 Toyota Corolla CE.

it sounds like either your having a short at the starter or the ignition switch is bad, I am leaning towards the issue being the starter, usually when the ignition switch is going bad there will be no click,

Posted on Oct 06, 2008

stormbrewin
  • 426 Answers

SOURCE: 97 Toyota 4Runner starting problem

If the immobiliser is not an issue the next time it happens remove the starter relay and swap with any other relay except fuel pump and ignition.Some times just pulling out and replacing works as the contacts on the relay do not have a good clean contact and provide too much resistance.Sure sounds like a relay begining to fail.good luck

Posted on Oct 19, 2008

SOURCE: ENGINE LACKS POWER (4AGE) 1600 CC, 4 CYL, TWIN CAM

I had the fuel pump recently replaced i just assumed the fuel filter was replaced also cause my fuel pump is in the gas tank. My air filter is clean and I have 4 fuel injectors, no carburetor. A friend of mine who has looked at my car for me says it sounds like there is some kind of air leak but can't figure out where it is coming from?

Posted on Oct 28, 2008

  • 20 Answers

SOURCE: 2003 Toyota 4runner dies and won't re-start easily

CHECK FOR SIGNS OF MICE IN AND AROUND THE FUSE BOX AND AIR CLEANER AREA. SOUNDS LIKE A CHEWED WIRE OR 6

Posted on Nov 27, 2008

  • 4 Answers

SOURCE: after filling my gas tank Car run rough at low rpms when in drive

Hi Lots to look at to trace this problem. Make sure that the belts are tight.

Posted on Apr 10, 2009

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2005 Toyota Landcruiser intermittent starting


I have had this problem before on a Mazda 626
I found that the Mass Air Flow Sensor was bad
But to Be sure you need to have the system scanned at a shop to make sure the computer does not have a malfunction.

Nov 16, 2011 | Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

My 96 yukon wil not start. Sounds like it will crank over but won't. It is not the fuel. I changed the ignition coil still won't start.


try spraying some carb cleaner into a vaccum hose and see if it will run. If so then you have ignition but no fuel delivery. If not then you have an ignition problem. make sure you hear the fuel pump hum when you turn the key to the run position. It should run for +/- 5 seconds then shut off. remove gas cap and listen for fuel pump operation through the fill hole. If you can hear the pump then you have a fuel injection issue. If the engine starts and runs for a few seconds then shuts off then you can suspect the crank or cam position sensor. The fuel pump runs through the oil pressure switch which could also be an issue.

Are you able to start the truck with application of the gas pedal?

Sep 22, 2011 | 1996 GMC Yukon

1 Answer

I have a 96 pontiac grand am that doesnt start all the time


Starting Problem # 1: Engine Won't Crank At All

Scenario: You turn the key, but nothing happens: And by nothing, we mean there is no dash light, no sound, nada. The first thing you should do in this case is to pop the hood and check the battery. Either the battery is completely dead or there's a wiring problem in the starting system. Try jump-starting the battery. If that doesn't work, you'll probably have to call for assistance.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a rapid clicking sound, and the dash lights dim. This is your classic low-battery symptom. Jump-starting the battery should get the engine to start.However, if you keep experiencing this problem, you could have a bad battery or alternator, or it could be some­thing as simple as a loose alternator belt. Take your car to a mechanic just as soon as you can.

Scenario: When you turn the key, the lights on the dash come on, but you don't hear anything. Make sure you have the shift selector all the way in park. Move it out of park and then back, or try starting it with the shifter in neutral. If your car has a manual transmission, make sure you have the clutch pressed all the way to the floor. If that doesn't help, you can try jump-starting the battery, but it probably won't work. There's a good chance your car has a bad starter or a problem in the starting circuit. That could mean a prob­lem in the ignition switch, neutral safety switch or starter sole­noid.

Scenario: The dash lights come on when you turn the key, and then go right out, and the engine doesn't crank when you turn the key to start, But, the lights slowly come back on when you release the key. This is another classic: the bad battery connection. When you turn the key to start, the starter pulls so much current that it breaks the connection. Then, when you release the key, the connection slowly comes back. The connection provides enough power to turn the dash lights on, but not enough to crank the starter. Cleaning and tightening the battery terminals may fix this prob­lem.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a single, hard clunk. Turn the headlights on and try again. Do the lights dim slightly when you turn the key? If so, you probably have a bad starter or a seized engine. If the headlights don't dim at all, or just barely dim, there may be a connection problem between the starter solenoid and the starter itself.

Scenario: When you turn the key, you hear a loud, scraping or grinding sound like metal on metal. The starter drive is bad, or the ring gear on the flywheel damaged, or both. You may get the starter to engage if you try turning the key a couple of times, but let go of the key right away if you hear the noise again. If the car does start, you should drive it right over to local repair shop and have the problem fixed.

Starting Problem #2: Engine Cranks but It Won't Start

Scenario: The engine seems to crank normally, but the engine doesn't even sound as if it's trying to start. Is there gas in the tank? Gas gauges are notoriously inaccurate. If you have to move your head to one side to get the needle to move off empty, try adding some gas to the tank.

Scenario: When you first turn the key on, you don't hear the fuel pump run. In cars with electronic fuel injection, you should hear a light hum a few seconds from around the fuel tank. That's the electric fuel pump running. If you don't hear the fuel pump run for a couple seconds when you first turn the key on, try cranking the engine until the oil light goes out. That may start the pump running and allow the engine to start.

Scenario: The engine cranks normally, and it sounds like it wants to start, but it won't. You may have flooded the engine. Hold the gas floor and try again. (Let the gas pedal up when it finally starts). If it's raining out, the ignition system may be wet.

Scenario: The engine cranks unevenly in a repetitive-sounding pattern. You may have a bad timing chain or timing belt. Call a tow truck and have it towed to the repair shop.


Starting Problem # 3: Engine Starts but It Shuts Off

Scenario: The engine starts right up, but shuts off as soon as you release the key. This is the classic symptom of a bad ignition switch. A new switch should fix it.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but when you put the transmission in gear, the car lurches and the engine shuts off. The converter clutch in the transmission torque converter probably is engaging when it shouldn't. On some cars, you can bypass this by disconnecting the torque converter clutch solenoid; but unless you know which wire to pull, forget about it. Call for assistance.

Scenario: The engine starts and runs, but seems to idle slowly and stalls when you come to a stop. This probably is a fast idle problem. When the engine is cold, it's supposed to idle a little faster than normal to keep the engine running. You may be able to drive using two feet until the engine warms up: one on the gas to hold the idle up a little and the other for the brake. However, don't keep driving it this way. Take your car to your repair shop just as soon as you

Jul 21, 2011 | 1996 Pontiac Grand Am

2 Answers

1992 Toyota Privia won't start. Intermittent problem of starting, dying while iddeling. Missing while driving, but not dying. And not starting at all. Replaced the coil. No success. All this happened...


go back into the rotor cap and check it for carbon tracking, and check the rotor button for carbon/ melting, its possible the coil. make sure you have good fuel pressure and that it hasnt jumped time.

Mar 10, 2011 | 1992 Toyota Previa

1 Answer

1999 landcruiser has intermittent starting problems. Sometimes it starts fine. Other times turns over once then nothing. Other times clicks but no turn-over. Other times no click, no start. Battery is good...


I had a similar problem with my landcruiser sometimes it would start no probs at all and other times it would start to crank and then stop and you had to try a couple of times to start it. It ended up being the starter motor contacts failing.
Just another thing to look at

Dec 03, 2010 | 1997 Toyota Land Cruiser

1 Answer

WON`T START COLD, STARTS ON STARTING FLUID 96 TRACKER


96 , TRACKER?
IF IT RUNS AND STAYS running. then that means the car is flooding or is in a sad state of tune.
tune it up and it will start every time.

if not ask me here.

http://www.kick-fix.com/
see my guest book. ask a question.

1; tune up
2: bad ECT sensor.
3: stuck closed IAC.
my page answers all sidekick questions.

Feb 04, 2009 | 1992 Geo Tracker

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