I have checked the fuel pump regulator,fule pump,fuel filter it's getting fuel up to the fuel rail..i checked for spark in all four cylinders and there fine..i checked the timeing belt and checked to make sure it had compression and that the top end was turning over it was all fine i checked all the fuses and relays they where fine also checked mass airflow sensor..fuel pressure regulator,injectors evrything i could possibly think of even emergency fuel cut off switch.i just cant figure it out..
If you checked all that then all thats left is the ECU..L/H Footwell..if you done a jumpstart lately with booster cables then you could have damaged the ECU..check it out..Go on to APEXI website and itll give you the pin location for all the ECU'S honda make...then start con checking to see if there is a break in the wires. thats all i can think of.
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It may BE losing fuel pressure, Robert. Check the fuel pressure and flow rate at the fuel rail. Filter, plugs, and cap have nothing to do with fuel pressure - your fuel pump and pressure regulator are the only things that can change fuel pressure very much.
I'm not aware of a fuel pressure sensor, you have a fuel pump relay and inertia switch that powers the pump, and a fuel pressure regulator on the fuel rail. If there is a fuel pressure sensor, I would think it would be on the fuel rail with the injectors. Have you replaced the fuel filter and checked the fuel pressure with a gauge ?
I would be considering testing/replacing engine coolant temperature sensor. A faulty sensor can send signal that engine is already warm when it is still cold, thus, less fuel delivery than needed at time of engine being cold.
Check the vacuum lines on the fuel pressure regulator and check the regulator itself. Its a small round piece at the end of the fuel rail, theyre relatively cheap and easy to change. The rubber diaphragm inside the regulator corrodes and rips over time and the car will loose fuel pressure. You can have a garage run a check on the fuel system to narrow it down.
Possible bad fuel pressure regulator.(you can check this by disconnecting the vacuum supply from the regulator,if fuel is in the vacuum supply your regulator is ruptured.the regulator is located on the drivers side fuel rail in the center of the rail.)The other possiblility is the fuel pump is getting weak and cannot build pressure
Signs of a Bad Fuel Pressure Regulator the vehicle will not start, if a bad regulator. Usually, this is a problem that is encountered in the morning when you start your vehicle. Many a times, the engine starts, but stalls shortly after starting. check the fuse and relay for pump. also remove line to fuel pressure regulator and if fuel in line, replace fuel pressure regulator. check for spark and also the timing belt. its one sign of not starting. if car runs fine on spray, I would not say its the timing belt or chain.
Keep in mind that you have several components there: - Fuel Pump Sender Assembly, - Fuel Pressure Regulator, - Fuel Rail Assembly, and - Fuel Injectors.
1.- Fuel Pump (Sender Assembly) - TESTING Refer to the accompanying charts for fuel pump diagnosis and testing.
The fuel injection system remains under pressure, even after the engine has been turned OFF. The fuel system pressure must be relieved before disconnecting any fuel lines. Failure to do so may result in fire and/or personal injury.
Fig. 3.1L engine OBD system check to be done before fuel pump
relay circuit diagnosis
Fig. View of the fuel pressure test port (Schrader valve)-3.1L
A - 3.1L engine fuel system pressure test (1 of 4) B - 3.1L engine fuel system pressure test (2 of 4) C - 3.1L engine fuel system pressure test (3 of 4) D - 3.1L engine fuel system pressure test (4 of 4)
Fig. The fuel pump/fuel sender module assembly is mounted in the
(the fuel pressure regulator, which is
located on the fuel rail assembly) NOTE: Before removing the fuel regulator assembly, place a clean
shop towel under the regulator to catch any fuel drips
Properly relieve the fuel system pressure.
If not done already, disconnect the negative battery cable.
On the 3.1L engine, remove the intake manifold plenum, as
On the 2.4L engine, remove the fuel rail. Refer to procedure
earlier in this section.
Detach the vacuum line from the regulator.
Place a shop towel under the regulator to catch any fuel that may
drip out. Unfasten the fuel pressure regulator retaining screw, then
remove the regulator by twisting and pulling it from the fuel rail.
Remove and discard the O-ring seal. Inspect the filter screen for
contamination and replace if necessary.
Prior to assembling the pressure regulator to the fuel rail,
lubricate the new rail-to-regulator O-ring seal with clean engine oil.
Place the O-ring on the pressure regulator and install the
pressure regulator to the fuel rail.
Install the retainer or coat the regulator mounting screws with an
approved thread locking compound and secure the pressure regulator in
place. Tighten the mounting screw to 76 inch lbs. (8.5 Nm).
If removed, install the fuel rail assembly to the engine.
The fuel return pipe must be connected before tightening the
regulator retaining screw to prevent the regulator from rotating.
Rotation of the regulator could damage the retainer and spacer bracket
and lead to a fuel leak at the regulator inlet.
Connect the fuel feed line and return line to the fuel rail
assembly, use a backup wrench on the fittings to prevent turning.
Attach the vacuum line to the regulator.
On the 3.1L engine, install the intake manifold plenum.
Connect the negative battery cable. Turn the ignition to
position for two seconds, then turn it to the
position for ten seconds. Turn again to the
position and check for fuel leaks.
if you getting low fuel pressure after changing out the fuel filter and the pressure regulator, than the fuel pump may not pump correct amount of pressure. being 1993, the pump has age along and have run many miles, may have gotten weak and not pumping correct mount of psi.