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I had this problem as well on a earlier year PT Cruiser, i tried everything i could think of, removing fuses one by one while watching the current draw on the battery led me to the radio, after pulling the fuse for the radio the current draw dropped down to about 150mA, i don't know what was wrong with the radio but i replaced it and the problem went away. The IOD fuse supplies power to the ECU and all of the electronic control modules in the car, how much current draw are you seeing with the IOD fuse in, and how much are you seeing with it out? Its not uncommon to see a couple hundred mA in standby to everything, especially if you have the factory security system with immobilizer, chipped keys. But you may have to pull one fuse at a time to find the culprit if you are seeing a much higher draw, should be less than 1 amp at the worst.
Why ? If you replace the BCM it will need to be programmed . Dealer !!
This vehicle's body control module (BCM) has a bussed electrical center integrated into the housing. Body control relays and fuses are installed directly on the BCM, which simplifies wiring and junction blocks on the vehicle. The body control system consists of the BCM and its associated controls. Battery positive voltage is provided to the BCM from IBCM BATT 1 fuse and the IBCM BATT 2 fuse in the underhood fuse block. The module grounds are wired to ground G201, G203 and G305. The BCM is wired to the GMLAN High speed serial data buss, and the GMLAN Low speed serial data buss, as well as discrete input and output terminals to control the functions of the vehicle's body .
Trying to save you some agravation an wasted time an money . For a do it yourselfer , this is nothing you should be messing with ! You don't have the training to be messing with the BCM .
A new body control module (BCM) must be programmed with the proper regular production option (RPO) configurations. The BCM stores the information regarding the vehicle options and if the BCM is not properly configured with the correct RPO codes the BCM will not control all of the features properly. The Tech 2 software will automatically prompt you with the various RPOs available for the vehicle. Ensure that the following conditions exist in order to prepare for BCM programming:
This entire procedure has been reviewed before starting
The battery is fully charged.
A CANdi module is installed between the vehicle and the scan tool.
The ignition switch is in the ON position.
The data link connector (DLC) is accessible.
All disconnected modules and devices are reconnected before programming.
You need to determine which circuit is drawing current from the battery by putting an ammeter in line with the battery cable and the positive battery post. Then start pulling fuses until the draw goes away. From there you will be able to isolate the component on that circuit.
The 30A IBCM1 fuse 20 is the source of power fed to the body control module and specifically the 2A IGN SENSOR FUSE, the 10A CLUSTER/THEFT FUSE, the key in ignition switch logic, the 10A HVAC CTRL (BATT) FUSE, the 10A RADIO FUSE, and the 10A AIR BAG (BATT) FUSE.
If your fan isn't running it shouldn't be drawing electrical current, but this procedure should narrow down the cause:
The positive battery cable goes to the starter and a couple fusible links feed the fuse block from there. I recommend hooking up an ammeter inline with the negative battery cable and pulling fuses until you find the one that stops drawing current on the ammeter when you pull it. At that point you will have found the circuit that your battery killer is on. Look at a wiring diagram for your car and see what devices are on the guilty circuit. Look and see if those devices are on/broken/shorted.
Common causes of "overnight dead battery" are: courtesy/trunk light on with doors/hood/trunk closed/sticky power door lock solenoid/aftermarket equipment installed to constant power instead of keyed power.
check your standing current draw put an amp gauge between the negative battery term and the battery negative post check for current draw anything over 1amp is not good pull the fuses one by one until the fault goes away that will be the faulty part or wiring