A 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
The service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones). click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Good luck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Do you want to change it or do you want to know which it is? If you are unsure, get someone to push the clutch whilst you look under the bonnet. When you see the clutch moving, you should be able to notice the mechanism. If it is a cable, it'll have a cable connected to it. If it is hydraulic, there will be no cable
if there is a clutch problem, the symptoms are engine rpms go up on acceleration but the car only goes slow
car shakes when riding the clutch
car jerks when slowly letting the clutch out
however if the clutch system hydraulic or cable is faulty it will slip , jerk etc when you take off
My first point to check would be the cable if cable operated clutch , clutch master cylinder and / or slave cylinder if hydraulic
clutch system either cable or hydraulic will cause the clutch to slip or not disengage the clutch properly
( grating in first and reverse )
Transmission either work properly or are very noisy , jump out of gear so at this stage I would suggest that you concentrate on the clutch operation
unfortunately you didn't bother to include any details in your question like make ,model year , cable or hydraulic so the answer can only be general or what the indications of a problem are
It's a manual transmission, then? If it is, your clutch is not working. You need to check at the transmission's bell housing to see if the clutch pedal being depressed causes the clutch fork to move-either forward or backward, it should move about an inch with the pedal pushed to the floor.. The clutch pedal will either be cable operated, or it will be a hydraulic clutch with a clutch master cylinder on the firewall, and a steel tube going down to the bell housing, where a small "slave cylinder" operates the clutch fork.
If you see the clutch fork move a fair amount, at least an inch, then you probably need a new clutch disc and pressure plate. A clutch job means removing the transmission to replace the clutch.
If the clutch fork does not move, either the cable has too much slack-for cable operated clutches, or the hydraulic unit has a problem-for hydraulic operated clutches. One of your hydraulic cylinders may be bad, either the clutch master cylinder or the slave cylinder.
Does the car have a cable clutch or hydraulic? If cable, there will be a rather hefty cable leading from the firewall (engine side) to the bell housing. If hydraulic, there will be a second fluid reservoir next to the brake fluid reservoir, engine compartment.
Hydraulic clutch: check for fluid level. If low, check for fluid leaks at the servo cylinder, that is the cylinder that operates the release fork on the bell housing, check for fluid leaks from the main cylinder. If it leaks, it will leak inside the car where the clutch pedal rod connects to the main cylinder. Any leaks you find on the main or servo can be repaired with a kit from your spares dealer.
If cable clutch - Check your pedal. If it is low, the cable can be adjusted to take up the slack. On older vehicles, I have found that the firewall itself sometimes corrodes if the cable is anywhere near the battery, and then adjustment does not help. The firewall has to be reinforced first.
If the clutch pedal feels good, have someone work the pedal while you have a look underneath at the release lever (or in the engine compartment if front wheel drive). See if it works well.
As a last resort, the friction plate or pressure plate could be worn, and this will mean removing the gearbox if your car is rear wheel drive. On most front wheel drive cars the clutch / pressure plate can be replaced while the gearbox is in place, a 45 minute job.
Its fairly easy to determine if your clutch is hydraulic or cable. Check in the engine compartment against the firewall on the drivers side, and see if there are one or two hydraulic reservoirs side by side. If there are two, the far left one is for the clutch, and you have a hydraulic clutch.
If you have a cable clutch, the cable should be clearly seen by the side of the brake hydraulic reservoir, a rather thick cable running from the firewall to the bell housing area.
There are two possibilities for adjusting - the adjusting nuts are either at the point where the outer part of the cable enters the firewall to connect to the clutch pedal, or where the inner cable connects to the release bearing fork.
To adjust, release the outer nut (there should be two, one is a locknut) and take up the slack by screwing the other nut inward.
Make sure you don't overtighten the cable, this could lead to your clutch slipping and you will need to replace the clutch plate sooner.
A hydraulic clutch is usually not adjustable, so if you have a problem there, take it to a service station.
Could be a worn out clutch or a failure of hydraulic if clutch is hydraulic . Check hydraulic fluid levels if hydraulic clutch if low and leaking master cylinder for clutch needs to be checked. Check clutch cable at wirewall in engine bay if cable driven. I have seen a car that had a surclip holding the cable and if the surclip broke the clutch cable did not work as it moved as it was used.
First --if it goes to the floor and will not come back up the problem will be in the hydraulics or cable
next if you put your foot on the clutch and you cannot engage 1st gear then it is the hydraulic / cable system
next if you take your foot of the clutch when it is in gear and the clutch slips and the rpm\'s go up it may be the hydraulics / cable or the clutch itself
IF the clutch has been operating properly until lately I would be paying attention to the hydraulic / cable areas before I would consider a clutch replacement. IF you have no problems with the clutch but would want to test it
place the vehicle in gear with the hand brake hard on . let the clutch pedal out while reving the engine ( hill start) and if the engine dies out or tends to stall then the clutch is good This is a very short time one off test (1-2 secs) at most
find the clutch throw out arm and see if there is a cylinder there or a cable end there. Or look at the fire wall at the clutch pedal and see if you have a hydraulic cylinder there or a cable coming out.