The dryer on my Suburban is icing up when I use the defrost. 60 degrees outside. Is this normal or do I have a problem? Just serviced and converted to R134. That mechanic says it's normal. This truck has rear AC. Please advise ... I do not want to freeze up the system and blow my compressor.
This does sound normal to me. When the defroster is switched on, the AC engages to help the defroster be more efficient by acting as a dehumidifier before the warm air hits the windshield. It is possible that the AC system may be over charged with Freon. But, I must put my faith in the mechanic and that he is honest as many are and has done you well.
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Hard to say. Under normal conditions, vent temp should be about 20 or 25 degrees less than outside air temp. So if outside air temp is 90 degrees and the engine is at idle speed, vent temp would be around 65 or 70. On the road the vent temp could be less than 60 degrees. If outside air temp is 70 degrees vent temp will be around 40 - 50.
Hello, Thank you for letting me assist you. Let's look at your problem. I don't see a year or model for your vehicle so I will assume it is 1990 or newer. Manufacturers for some reason setup the defroster setting to activate the AC compressor regardless of what you have the temperature setting set to anytime it is turned on. This becomes problematic in some regions. I know when I drive through Pennsylvania during the winter I had to change my windshield washer fluid from cleaner to a 50 /50 mix of cleaner and alcohol/deicer fluid in order to stop the icing on my windows. Your problem though, as I understand your post, is there is ice forming on the inside of the vehicle.
The first thing to make sure you are setting the air control to recirculate instead of bringing air in from the outside. Second, make sure your using a 60/40 mix of Anti-Freeze in your radiator and that your radiator is properly filled. Normally you use a 50/50 but in your case you seem to be in a colder region and being a little stronger on the Anti Freeze will ensure you don't have a motor freeze. Next you need to check your thermostat. If you haven't replaced it in the last 5 years I would replace it. In colder regions you really need the thermostat to make sure your actually building heat up before water is cycled from the radiator. The next check is to make sure your actually getting heat to the heater coil on the inside of the vehicle. Start the vehicle and let it idle for about 10 minutes. This should be enough time for the engine to heat up and for the thermostat to open. Then turn the heater on with it set to your mid-level vents. If you have no heat coming through the vents you need to check your heat control valve and AC compressor. If your set to heat and not defrost the AC compressor should not be running. Make sure the control valve on your main heater line is open. The main Heater line is a 1" or 5/8" line that runs from motor to the firewall, it will have a control valve on it that is either cable controlled or more commonly vacuum controlled. The vacuum controlled system are more problematic as any vacuum leak in the system will cause it to malfunction plus the vacuum controller where you set the temperature inside the vehicle can cause problems and is hard to isolate. The good news is you can by-pass this control in the winter even if you only do it for testing. Remove the controller and put a straight pipe in its place. If you don't have water running through that hose either your water pump is bad or you have a blockage. Now, assuming you have water flowing through that hose, if the heater works when the vehicle is sitting and idling but it gives you trouble when your driving there is one more option. I don't recommend doing this except in very cold climates as it can cause you to overheat and you have to remember to undo this trick when it gets 50 degrees or warmer. You can partially block the radiator. Be careful not to fully block it and be aware this will cause more resistance when the vehicle is moving. They sell kits in cold climate areas that are made of canvas to partially block the air flow through the radiator but you can make one using cardboard or a piece of canvas just don't use anything plastic. This will reducing the cooling capacity of your radiator and increase the warmth of the water going to the heater core. I normally see these in areas like Canada, Colorado or Alaska in the winter but there are cases when you may need them in other states. Let me know if this doesn't fix the problem. If none of this works then let me know what you found doing the checks I gave you and we will look at something else.
Hello: Max cooling is when the recirculate door opens. With the recirculate door open, 80% of the air flow comes from inside of the car and 20% is outside air. That makes the cooling more efficient. Normal a/c operation is 100% of airflow comes from the outside. These settings have nothing to do with compressor operation. Also Decreasing or increasing the amount of cooling has nothing to do with compressor operation, what that does is control the amount of air going from the evaporator core either through or past the heater core. The a/c compressor runs the same amount of time regardless of settings on the control panel. Also in cool weather the compressor runs in the defrost mode to keep the windows from fogging up. None of these settings affect performance, the only time performance is affected is wide open throttle (WOT) in that mode the engine computer shuts off the compressor to allow max power of the engine, ie: passing gear.. When A/C is selected the compressor is on, none of the settings will affect gas mileage, ie, low/high, max/normal 60 degree or 90 degree.
could be a problem with the blend door. common on explorers. open glove box all the way down (bend in tabs to where it will open further than normal) . take flashlight and look behind it to top of black box inside dash. should be able to see tab for door moving while changing the temp. on the control unit. if it is broken should be able to hear cracking or popping from inside heater case.
What is the ambient or outside temp? A drop of 30-40 degrees is considered normal. And did you evacuate the system to remove the air? This is a must to get 100% efficiency. Another cause is too much oil/stop leak/or leak detector can affect efficiency
not a home mechanic job thats for sure ,check youre pollen filter isnt choked up if thats ok then you need a specialist repairer because the venturi offrice is blocked which means that the high pressure gas isnt going through the small hole causing it to stay hot.must ge er indoors moaning
this is covered by your warranty for 36/36. The sensor is usually on the evaporator inside the plenum case under the dash. If the eavp drops below 32 degrees F, then ice starts to accumulate on the fins of the evaporator, and eventualy blocks the flow of air through it. You will hear the blower running, but no air coming out.
To reduce liklihood of icing, always put a/c in "recirc" mode. This recirculates the already cooled and dehumidified air back through the a/c system, therefore reducing humid air icing.
Note: never use recirc in winter because you will fog up the windows.
Are you talking about the coolant temperature (c/t) or the ambient temperature (outside temp). If you're refering to the ambient temperature the problem is the sensor is located under the radiator support and picks up the temperature off the pavement this is done intentionally to help detect icing conditions and unfortunatley there is no calibration for the sensor.
The ambient air temperature sensor is bad or has a connection/wiring problem. It is not blowing cold air because it thinks the outside air is less then 35degrees. When the computer sees outside air less than 35 it disables AC so that ice will not form inside the vehicle and in HVAC system. The sensor is directly behind the front grill. You might be able to check it for connection/corrosion/frayed or damaged wires. If no evidence of this I would replace it.