The hose, coming off the engine block and running into the heater core, has a fitting that screws into the engine block that broke at at the threads.
it looks like it is an aluminum fitting, which, i thought was a heater hose fitting, is not the same thing.
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These cars are notorious for having blocked heater cores, causing the heater to blow cold air. That's because there is a heater core bypass hose near the firewall that allows the coolant to bypass the heater core. Eventually the heater core fills with gunk and no coolant passes through it. You'll need to disconnect the hoses from the heater core at the firewall and flush the core using a garden hose. Flush both ways till water runs clear. If you can't access the heater core fittings at the firewall, then follow the hoses from these fittings back to the engine and disconnect them at that point and flush from there. If you flush from the hoses in this manner, it is important that you clamp off the bypass hose at the firewall with a vice grip pliers.
Otherwise the flushing water will go through the bypass hose and not the heater core.
If it's the plastic fitting it scares into the engine you can break the piece in the engine apart apart. Be careful as it is threaded in and you do not want to damage the threads. Auto stores sell a metal replacement.
I'd probably remove intake manifold, then get the piece out, so you don't have to worry about junk getting into the engine.
If that is a pipe thread in the manifold, then it should be easy. You may have to dress up the threads. They have fittings that have a pipe thread on one end and a hose fitting on it, then use heater hose from one fitting to the next. In the olds days the didn't have that metal tubing, they just had heater hoses.
In the past, I have removed stuck fitting from aluminum head. I got it out but I tore up the threads, I don't remember how I fixed it, too many years ago.
Of course I can't see anything from here. Use your best judgement.
The core may be plugged, or it may have an air lock, or the core may be fine and the doors in the heater case may not be opening properly to pass heat.
With the engine at normal operating temperature, feel both the inlet and outlet core hoses at the firewall. If the coolant is circulating both hoses should be hot. If only one is hot, try cracking open the outlet line, with engine running, to get flow started from an air block. (The outlet line will run from the firewall to the front of engine near or at the water pump housing. The inlet for the heater comes off the top of engine from a head fitting and goes to the firewall.) If no flow results, the core may be plugged. To flush the core, take both hoses off at the firewall or off at where they fit on the engine, and put a garden hose into the outlet-flush it backwards-run until clear-let the water run to ground or use a catch can if able to. Some people use compressed air into the core instead of water flushing. Either way, you should see some sediment come out if it had any blockage. Once you get the heater core circulating, any further heater problems need to be addressed at the heater case. Make sure the temperature blend door can open and close-this door opens to let blower fan air pass across the heater core. Good luck.
Is it the smaller water hose from the heater core? Coming from the firewall behind the engine? The metal fitting on the water pump will have to be replaced. Some are threaded and screw in. Others are press fitted, If a shop can get to the fitting where it is, they might fix it easily. Otherwise, you may need to have the pump removed, and a new fitting installed, or hey, a good time to replace the pump.
Check to see if the heater core hoses going into the firewall are hot when the engine radiator hoses are hot. If one heater core hose is hot and other is cool, then the heater core is blocked/plugged. If they are both cold then the hoses are blocked. Trace them both back to the engine and make sure there is no on/off valve on the intake to turn on. Some of those valves are vacuum operated or electrical. Just depends. For a quick fix. You can remove that valve and install a screw in fitting to the intake manifold that has a barb on the end to slip a hose over. But the heat will always be on hot.
If the hose comes from the engine and goes to the firewall it is most likely a heater core hose. If it's a rubber hose with clamps on each end it should be fairly easy to replace by lossening the clamps and fitting a correct size new hose in it's place.
Sorry but its very likely those threads are still stuck in your engine. GM used Plastic, Steel and Cast parts, the most common being a steel that rusts away and gives you the result you now have. You might get lucky removing the broken remains yourself. If you can reach it, you may try an extractor or "easy-out" which is a reverse threaded tool to try and back out the part. however, these are never in an easy to reach location, and more careful extraction may be needed. In that case do not attempt it yourself unless you are very mechanically oriented. you can easily damage your engine block or intake (depending upon where its located). Also note: if the fitting is corroded, so will many other parts in your engine such as the freeze plugs and other fittings. Consider checking these items out as well before big problems arise.