Re: oil plug came out didn't realize no oil pressure t
The oil is there to cool and lubricate the crank ( bottom end) and the cam shaft and valves (top end) the most likely out come is that you have (cooked) the engine, check to see if when you try to start dose the engine turn? if it dose then it could be the oil temp switch will need to be replaced. if the engine DOSENT turn then you have most probably welded the pistons to the block. seized the crank shaft or warped the head (head gasket) i hope this helps
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
The oil light does not indicate the car is low on oil (based on your discription) it indicates the oil pressure is low, the no start is most likely due to this low pressure and the fuel pump has been cut off to prevent damage to the engine from low oil pressure. Please have a shop locate the cause of the low oil pressure warning and repair it as needed. It could be a false light or a real one, which means if you drove it very far you may have damaged the engines bearings.
First, Wallyworld "techs" are not allowed to tell you anything is wrong with your car. If the light is on and the engine is knocking, chances are good that there is internal bearing damage. If the engine seems to be running OK, the passageway to the pressure sending switch may be plugged with debris or the screen that the oil passes through on it's way to the pump may be obstructed with sludge. The only real reliable way of cleaning that is to remove the pan. Only other thing you could try is using some engine oil flush, changing the oil again and using a synthetic oil (Wallyworld synthetic is made by Quaker State...good) and add a pint of marvel oil to it (adds extra detergents and solvents). This is not fool-proof and as I said, any knocking, the engine is gone...don't bother. If it works, change the oil again at 2,000 then at 3,000 and continue using a good grade of oil and marvel (for insurance). You can also install a mechanical pressure gauge in place of the sending unit...that way you can read the actual oil pressure (above 20psi hot is OK, best is above 30 at idle).
Sounds like the oil pump intermediate shaft might have slipped out of place when the distributor was removed and replaced. The intermediate shaft is held to the oil pump by a nylon sleeve that can and sometimes does break, which will allow it to slip out of place. Pull the distributor back out and look down the hole with a flashlight, you should see the top of the shaft, it looks like the head of a regular flat tip screw, if you do not see this the shaft is out of place and the only fix is to remove the oil pan and reinstall it. As far as engine damage, if you only ran the engine for a short time and at low rpms you might be alright, if you drove it down the road or ran it at high rpms then there is probably damage to the bearings, and the knock will not go away.
So it shifts from 1st to 2nd but that is it? 3/4 clutch burned out. Check the transfer case level. If you remove the fill plug and oil pours out, the transfer case input seal is bad, the transmission oil drained back into the transfer case leaving the transmission oil level low, and then it burns out the 3/4 clutch pack. I have seen oodles of these at my shop. Very common. Someone may have added fluid to the transmission to "doctor" the problem which won't work anyway
My 2003 1.8L Passat at 62K indicated Oil Pressure, Stop Engine. I had been low on oil for longer than I realized, though the car didn't indicate to me anything. I added a quart 5-40 synthetic as usual, and about 300 miles mid way on a road trip is when the warning lit up! I had been to the dealer last year and there was a mention of sludge developing in these cars. They suggested I bring it in to remove sludge but life got busy, and it never happened. Evidently this model Passat is notorious for this oil sludge problem. My Passat needed a new oil pump $800 later half way between destination and home. Luckily I was in a town with a 30 VW mechanic who was very good. The sludge (carbon deposits) had blocked pump pickup. Oil level was good. The computer didn't show anything, but the oil pressure test discovered PSI went down when RPM's went up. Not good. This problem is very serious as it has ruined engines. I guess I was lucky in the fact that nothing else was damaged. So you may look into this build up. It sounds terribly familiar.