Just changed the head gasket got a new thermostat but now.... After bleeding the system it will start ok from cold and build up to half way (normal) but then it will slowly rise to just under the red and stay there???? doesnt over heat, bubble, loose coolant or over pressurise and the heaters are nice and warm??? please help
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Replace the Radiator and WaterPump, You are NOT getting Circulation. ok sorry the Procedures were not followed On repairing You Cooling system, Go to this Link and watch Video on Bleeding the System of Air.https://video.search.yahoo.com/yhs/search;_ylt=A0LEVrwA0SNWrIYANqMnnIlQ;_ylu=X3oDMTByMjB0aG5zBGNvbG8DYmYxBHBvcwMxBHZ0aWQDBHNlYwNzYw--?p=Bleeding+a+Cooling+System+On+a+Daewoo+Cars&fr=yhs-mozilla-001&hspart=mozilla&hsimp=yhs-001
Have you run it with cap off and full to watch for flow when thermostat opens? WIth heater on as well, to bleed system properly. If your not seeing the flow at normal operating temperature when thermostat should be, or is opening, then you probably have a water pump problem.
vehicle cold, remove radiator cap. see if coolant pushes out of radiator. if so, blown head gasket. if not recheck thermostat and or installation. make sure to bleed air from cooling system. while running burp upper radiator hose with hand. upper hose will get hot once system is operating properly.
when the heater blowes cold you are low on anti frezze, the system is designed so that when the system gets low on coolent the heater will blow cold it is a waning for you to know some thing is wrong, i dought it is a head gasket but it might be, you need to have some one pressure test the cooling system, my first thought is to have someone take a close look at the weap hole on the water pump. we see alot more waterpump leaks then head gaskets on the jeeps.......good luck
The problem here based on what you have told me is that you have a cylinder head gasket leaking combustion gas into the cooling system, this creates gas pockets around the thermostat and delays it opening. You can try adding one of the many head gasket sealers available in auto parts stores. I suggest you contact a local NAPA or Carquest auto parts store and ask what they think really works, I' heard that many do work but have no 1st hand knowledge. To make sure air is not in the cooling system do the following, you will need a floor jack. If the problem persists you will need the head gasket replaced and the cylinder head checked for cracks and if it checks ok then machined flat again.
The generic method of bleeding air from the cooling system is to use a floor jack and raise the front of the car as high as possible, then fill the coolant recovery tank full and run the engine until it just starts to overheat, high end of normal zone on gauge, then shut the engine down and run cold water over the radiator core, this will self bleed the system and the coolant will be pulled from the recovery tank, repeat as necessary, never let the recovery tank run dry or more air will be pulled into the system.
unfortunately these engines are known for this condition and for head gasket failure.with engine cold pressurize cooling system with spark plugs removed.look down into holes with flashlight after about ten minutes.....im betting youll see a puddle of coolant on piston...usually its cyl# 2 or 3.i cant think of any other possibility for system repeatedly airlocking other than a head gasket.good news they are probably one of the easier ones to replace.
hi, the problem you are having is down to one of a couple of problems, now as you state the air blows cold then this points towards the thermostat not opening so this then dont pump the coolant round the engine resulting in the top half of the being hot and the bottom half cold so this is why you only get cold air.
so the first thing you should do is get the thermostat changed.
you also need to bare in mind that the problem could be a damaged water pump this does happen from time to time so check for any signs of water leak where the water pump is by the timing belt, if their is no signs of leak then the thermostat is the likely cause.
you also need to think that as the engine has over heated this could have caused the head gasket to fail so this will need looking at to if after changing the thermostat you have the same over heating problem.
so replace the thermostat as this has clearly gone and then when you re-fill the coolant make sure any bleed screws are undone if you have any on your coolant system usually located in one of the top hoses running around the engine, (not all coolant systems have one as many are self bleeding so dont worry if you dont see any bleed screws) now when you start filling the coolant up make sure you only trickle the coolant in to prevent any air lock building up in the system.
if you are unsure what you are doing then please leave this to someone who has some idea of the kind of work involved in this type of repair
hi, if you are changing the head gasket then it may be worth checking the water pump and thermostat as it could have been one of these that failed causing it to over heat and then blown the head gasket so check the water pump and thermostat once you have the cylinder head off.
You may need the head checking to see if it has been warped but this is unlikely on this make of vehicle.
Once you have done the gasket make sure that when you fill the coolant up you only trickle the water in to prevent any air lock as this will cause it to over heat again, check for any bleed screws on the coolant system to let the air out whilst filling the coolant up,
Its best you check in the workshop manual for these as their may not be none as it could be self bleed system.
It also worth checking if the head bolts need changing as they do stretch and can cause the gasket not to seal properly so replacing these may be a good idea.
Let me know how you get on or if you need further assistance ok.
ps what makes you think the head gasket has gone??
this is caused by a leaking cylinder head gasket or air in the sytem, if u did not bleed the cooling system follow this procedure, it is generic for all cars. The generic method of bleeding air from the cooling system is to use a floor jack and raise the front of the car as high as poss, then fill the coolant recovery tank full and run the engine until it just starts to overheat, high end of normal zone on gauge, then shut the engine down and run cold water over the radiator core, this will self bleed the system and the coolant will be pulled from the recovery tank, repeat as necessary, never let the recovery tank run dry or more air will be pulled into the cooling systeml , if it still overheats then you need to have the head gaskets checked with a gas analyzer for hydrocarbons present in the radiator or recovery tank
I had the same problem with my 1993 Liberty LX. Remove the thermostat (located inside bottom radiator hose engine connection - take the connection off and thermostat is inside). Reassemble (minus thermostat), reconnect bottom hose. Slowly (very, very slowly) refill the radiator and remove the bleed plug ( located beside the top hose connection to the radiator - a black square plug with a phillips head cross in the middle). When the radiator is full and clear water (no air bubbles) is coming out of the bleed point, replace the bleed plug and then the radiator cap.
Run the engine for five minutes (approx) or until normal engine temperature is reached. Allow the engine to cool down and recheck the water level - fill if necessary ensuring that the bleed plug is open and clear water is coming out of that point. Replace Bleed plug and then radiator cap. Run engine for five minutes (approx) and then test dive. If the engine overheats keep filling the radiator until there are no air bubbles coming from out of the bleed point.
This fixed my overheating problem. Good luck and safe motoring.