Have battery rechecked, also I Reccomend disconnecting Battery, to save life of the battery, until Electrical Issue is Resolved.
No, I do not think battery caused all 3 alternators to go bad.
The First alternator, may have been caused by a faulty Battery, A Capacity Test, on first Battery, may have not passed, and would have saved the life of Second Alternator. Second Alternator fault cause, most likely the old Battery. A weak or failing battery can put additional stress on the alternator to keep it charged. This turns the battery into a load instead of an energy bank and causes the alternator to increase output which can make it fail prematurely.
Then Question Changes, Not Cause of Alternator...
CAUSE OF No Good Battery?
Defenantly an electrical issue.
The Last Alternator, possibly was good, "or on its way out",. Alternators are adjustable, and when not installed Properly, the shaft pully could be misaligned with the Serpentine Belt. The Belt that drives the alternator, could possibly put Extra stress on the shaft pulley in directions it shouldn't be, thus causing the shaft bearing to prematurely expire.
Bad Alternator Diode will cause a load to be put on the Battery, draining Battery even when Car is Off. Battery will be Drained By Morning. Result No-Start Engine. SUGGEST removing Battery, to save Life of Battery.
Causes for Faulty Alternator Diode.
Alternator Ground is Fastened to the frame Rail. Ground connection is lost the alternator's voltage regulator can overcharge the battery and destroy the entire electrical system.
Damage or wear to the Serpentine belt can cause Shaft Pully to slip and not turn fast enough. This can make the alternator undercharge the battery and damage both of them.
You will Need a New Alrernator.
Before Installing, Capacity Test Battery, Battery Voltage test Should read strong 12.6 Volts+. Autozone will test Battery, Alternator.
Also a visual Electrical Inspection.
Negative post Wire To Ground.
Follow Positive post wire From Battery to Fuse Box.
See ground wires fastened to side fram rail.
Trace wires to Relay center, and along to Power Distribution Center. Harness wires follow around fuel injectors and back down passenger side to Alternator, Also check ground connections fastened to passenger side frame rail. Finally Ground from Alternator should be fastened to inner frame rail. Starter should be below Alternator in center bottom of motor, should also be fastened ground to frame rail.
The problem indicates a faulty voltage regulator or dead short in a wire from the alternator
after the first alternator you should consulted an accredited auto electrician to check the system properly
SOURCE: 1992 Nissan Pathfinder charging problems
How long did the 2nd alt. last before it died? The voltage regulator is, I believe, attached to the alternator. Have u had the voltage regulator checked?
SOURCE: truck keeps dying. seems like alternator is going bad.
you could be looking in the wrong place. generally a weak charging system will cause the engine to just die, and if you jump it with a dead battery and bad alternator, it'll run until you take off the jumpers.
with the way the truck bucks as you describe, I'd look at the fuel pressure, fuel filter, plugs, wires, and all other related components. this sounds a lot like a fuel or ignition problem, and not a charging problem.
charge up the battery before you take it in to be tested, if the battery and alternator test good, clean and tighten the battery cables on the battery side and the starter and ground sides of the cables. if the truck keeps doing the same thing after the charging system checks out, try a tune up.
SOURCE: 1995 Nissan Maxima won't start, not battery.
You may have bad solenoid, starter/battery/solenoid connections, or gound.
Check voltage at starter solenoid when somebody turns key to start. That is where the starter switch, or relay, sends the voltage to pull in the solenoid coil through small wire. I think the solenoid is on the starter for this car, but it may be separate. Autozone has an excellent web site with car-specific repair guides and instructions. You should see 12V at solenoid every time the key is turned to start.
Check big power cable to starter that runs direct from the battery for tight connections. If you have a separate solenoid, then another big cable runs from it to starter. A loose or bad connection could be the culprit. Also check starter mount bolts. They need to be tight for a good solid electrical ground. You also need good ground from frame to engine. Its a long shot, but sometimes the ground straps come loose or burn. You can easily check this by measuring resistance between engine block and negative battery terminal. It should be zero or darn near zero (less than 1 ohm ?).
The solenoid is really a heavy duty swich to handle the high amp load to the starter. It works by a coil that pulls in the big switch. The coil operates from the starter switch and needs onlyt low current and small wire. If the coil wires burn up or there is a bad connection, it won't work. Hope this helps.
SOURCE: BATTERY OVERCHARGED AND ALTERNATOR IS FINE
If you have a fully charged battery when you installed then 14 volts is way to much charge for the battery which would mean that the alternator probably has a faulty regulator and the alternator needs to be changed otherwise you will continue to install new batteries. If the battery was in an uncharged state then it is possible for the alternator to charge at full capacity to charge up the battery.
SOURCE: Going through alternators
Hi there, I am a girl (i.e. not car savvy), but I have a 1998 Altima as well, and the first time (4 months ago) I noticed the brake and battery lights on simultaneously, I took it to a Nissan service shop. Everything seemed fine until about a month ago when the symptoms returned. I ignored the problem for 3 days and the car just stopped running, period. Took it back to the shop, figured out it was a fauly alternator, got it sorted, no problem. Today (1 month after replacement), I see the same bloody problem, and I'm taking it back to the shop in the morning. I am wondering... is it the alternator, or something connected to the alternator that is malfunctioning? The 2 alternators put in were "rebuilt" since they didn't have genuine Nissan alternators available. I really hope the dealers aren't taking me for a merry ride.
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