Question about 1993 Toyota Pickup

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1983 toyota 22r/2.4 had head shaved .022 installed cam shaft 180 degrees out tryed to start noticed problem.corrected problem,in result intake valve appears to be staying open on cylinder 1and4.question is did i warp the valve by shaving head or by installing cam shaft 180degrees out.

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  • Anonymous Feb 13, 2009

    in back fires bad

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Piston has contacted the valves that stay open. they are bent and you need to remove the head and replace them and then reinstall the head with the #1 piston at top dead center and the cams for the #1 cylinder both pointing down, this is the end of the compression stroke and the begining of the power stroke. at this point on the valve train and valve springs are affecting the valves, keeping them open and the rocker arms are not affecting the valves and should both be loose. set distributor to fire on cylinder #1.

Posted on Jan 07, 2009

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Hi, I dont think that neither will cause the valves to get bend ,if the cam is 180 degrees out piston 1 and 4 are up at the same time,so if the timing chain is on the marks , pistons should not hit the valves,I think the timing chain was out one or more teth the first time you try to start the angine..C1

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

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You have damaged valves big time----always turn engine with ratchet 360degrees before evan attempting to use starter motor rermove head replace valves and start again.

Posted on Dec 01, 2008

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4 Answers

Trying to replace broken timing belt. Trying to set #1 cyl. to TDC manually. no compression reading on 1 &4, readings on 2 & 3. What could cause this?? HELP!!


Hole in the piston crown is the worst Charles, but let's not be pessimistic :>(

More likely valves open. At TDC firing stroke both inlet and exhaust valves should be closed. The flat, low part of the cam should be on the followers. So 1 and 4 have valves open, 2 and 3 are closed. If you turn the cam 180 degrees, you should have compression on 1 and 4 and no compression on 2 and 3.

The other thing though, is that when the timing belt breaks, the valves are often in the wrong place at the wrong time and can often meet the piston head on. This can bend the valves. or damage the piston. The normal advice is to remove the cylinder head to check, and then service the valves whilst you have it apart.

A job like this, you need a workshop manual.

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Does it pop and backfire? Are you sure the distributor was also correctly set? If any of that is true, you may be 180° out of time.

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I have a oz xe 4.1 lt 250 xflow motor which i have rebuilt and put flat top pistons in bored out 60 thou shaved yella terra head 15 thou and has a very mild cam after lining up timing marks the inlet


when setting up the valve timing it is always done on the exhaust stoke.. Place the piston on TDC and set the valve timing so that the exhaust valve is just closing and the inlet is just opening. Rocking the crank a bit before tdc to a bit after tdc will produce a movement where the exhaust starts to close as the inlet starts to open. This is known as valve rock or valve overlap. The cam modification is of no consequence as the as all that is modified is the valve duration , not when they open or close. With the cam now timed to the crank turn the crank 180 degrees and set the ignition timing to the degrees advanced recommended ( 10-12 degrees bftdc is recommended for starting). Place the HT leads in the correct firing order and when running use a timing light to adjust ignition timing. If you are fitting a new cam then you must bedding in grease and when the motor starts it has to be run at around 2.000rpms for around 10 minutes to set (harden) the cam lobes or else they will wear off very quickly.

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I have 2003 chevy impala (V6 3.4 liter) i recently replaced both head gaskets. The car was running fine and now with engine back together engine want turn over sounds like its not firing but the plugs...


Did you get the timing set correctly when you reattached the cam to the timing chain? It sounds like you didn't have the #1 Top dead center or the cams were in the wrong position when you reset the timing chain. The cam shaft and Crank will actually look like they are set correctly two times. Once when it is in time and once when it is out of time 180 degrees. If you are more than 5 degree out of time or more than 5 degrees from the point where it is 180 degrees out of time the engine normally won't fire at all. The easiest way to check and verify this is to do compression checks on the cylinders, you will find you have little or no compression on several cylinders if this is the case. To correct it remove the timing chain and set the crank to #1 Top Dead center. Then go to the head that is on the #1 side, line the cam up so that both valves are closed for the number 1 and line that mark up. You have to find the firing order to make sure the intake is open getting ready to close for the next cylinder that going to fire and the exhaust valve is closed, then make teh final adjustment to line that cams timing mark up then replace the timing chain. This should get everything roughly within 5 degrees of zero and should get the motor so it will start.

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How to replace a broken timing belt


Daewoo has interference engines in them, so if the timing belt broke while the engine was running, you will need to replace half of the valves which were bent when the pistons crashed into them when the cams stopped turning and the crank shaft continued to turn. Minimum of $700-1000.00 (usually more). If you do it all yourself and the valve guides are not damaged, still at least $400.00 worth of parts to fix. Pull plastic air dams around bottom of engine on front and right side . Support engine with jack. Drain antifreeze from engine and radiator. remove air filter housing and serpentine belt. remove front engine mount. remove cam belt cover. remove broken cam belt and check cam tensioner bearings and idler bearing as well. They are usually bad. Then remove spark plug cover. Remove valve cover. Remove intake from head. remove coil from head. remove heat shield from exhaust manifold then remove manifold from exhaust and from head. remove water hoses and connecting assemblies from side of head and rear of head. remove Cam shaft bearing caps loosening them all evenly so as not to bend cams. remove cams. remove head bolts. remove head. remove valve hydraulic lifters, compress valve springs and remove valve retainers and dissassemble valves. Clean everything very well. Make sure head is not damaged. Remove valve guide seals. install new valve guide seals, new valves. Seat valves with valve grinding compound. clean well. instal valves in reverse order of dissasembly. Before putting head on, make sure number 1 cylinder is at top dead center position. install head using proper torque of 18 ft # in a spiral application rotation from the center outward in a clockwise direction. Then do spiral rotation again tightening bolts each one-quarter turn. Repeat the tightening process two more times only turning the bolts one-quarter turn each time. Use new head bolts. They are designed to stretch in the process of installation and are not to be re-used. Align cams to proper orientation then bolt into place. do not overtorque cam bearing cap bolts. Less than 5 ft # of torque can stretch these bolts. Snug them then tighten them 90 degrees. Then tighten them another 90 degrees (quarter turn). Snug them all then go back and tighten all of them a quater turn, then go back and tighten all of them another quarter turn. Install the cam idler and tensioner and install the cam belt. then install the intake, exhaust and all other items in reverse order of assembly. Do not turn engine over unless you are sure you have the cam belt on with the crank shaft pulley aligned at top dead center and the intake and exhauste pulley marks aligned to their proper marks with the cam belt properly tensioned. You can't be even one tooth off. This must be right before you turn the engine over! Remove spark plugs and turn engine over by hand two rotation clockwise using a wrench on the center bolt of the crank shaft pulley. Check that the timing of cams is still perfect. If not, correct, retension cam belt, double check timing positions again then rotate engine two revolutions. Check cam timing positions again. The timing should not change! The engine should turn over relatively easily. If it feels like it doesn't want to turn, don't force it. You may have the timing off and be pressing a piston against a valve. If you are at this point, then you need to remove cam belt and unbolt cam shafts to release all tension on any of the valves. return the number one cylinder to top dead center position and then reinstall the cams and cam belt. Once it is assembled and in time, then reattatch the rest of the components that were removed in dissassembly. Do this in reverse order of dissassembly. then connect battery and fill radiator fluid. Start car.

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No problems yet


It is okay as you specified. feel safe drive it.

I love Toyota.

rate this

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5 Answers

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