What holds the front rotors from coming off, while doing brake job.

Brake rotor and front or rear?

Okay, remove the wheel then remove the brake caliper and move to side do not allow to hang on the brake hose, use a hook to hang off spring or set aside. next remove the caliper bracket, two bolts at rear of bracket to remove it.
next you will use a hammer to remove the rotor.

NOTE: the way the brake rotor was designed was a bad one the hub in which the rotor slides over and the wheel studs slide into holes on the rotor is bad the hub diameter is almost the same size as the diameter of the seat of the rotor that slide over the hub and what happens is sometimes the rust build up on the rotor seat locks the brake rotor on the hub. i do not know if you are reusing the rotors or replacing them, no sure what job you are doing . the rotors to take off you will need to tap on the rear of them with a little force and turn, hit and turn. you will need to see if they break free or if hard beating and spraying into the rear of them is needed with wd40.
Alot of these rotors also have two threaded hole on the face of the rotor near the studs so that you can screw two bolts into holes to help pull them. use wire to tie caliper up and also use a c-clamp to push piston into calipe to remove caliper if needed, Do not remove brake hose, there is no need to open system, here is a picture of the rotor coming of the hub, also there may be clips on the stud holding rotor on remove them use cutters or pry off do not need to reuse , they are to help in holding the rotor on during asm, if you want you can buy them and reinstall them but never reuse them.

first you remove all the lug nuts and the wheel and tire. To get the rotor off you will need to remove the brake caliper. they are held in with 1/4" hex screws. If you don't have an allen wrench you can use a socket extension to removes these. Once unscrewed the calpet simply lifts off the rotor and the rotor is ready to come off. You will need to remove the axle nut and keeper then the rotor slides off towards you and the wheel bearings will come out with the rotor.

after you remove the wheel. 1.remove the two bolts that hold the caliper they are normally 5/16 allen .
2. remove the caliper. ( it helps if you use a flat blade screwdriver too spread the pads.)
if the bracket that holds the caliper interferes with the rotor then remove the two bolts that hold it.

3. if the rotor is stuck to the hub the get a 2X4 and a large hammer. place the wood on the edge of the rotor. hit the wood so you do not mark the rotor . then once it is lose pull it off.

You have to remove the wheels and the brake calipers and then the rotors.You will need and 3/8 allen socket to remove the bolts that hold the caliper to the spindle.You also need to pry the brake pads back slightly to relieve the pressure from the pad to the rotor.This will make it easier to remove the caliper over the rust ridge of the rotor. Get a book to show you how.You can find them at the library or there are some good how to videos on line.Just google how to replace rotors.Afer you have replaced the rotors and reinstalled the calipers make sure and pump the brake pedal before driving the vehicle.Because the pedal will go to the floor the first few pumps.Pump it up til it feels hard before driving it.Hope this helps.Good luck.

There are two different types of calipers used on 01 Beetles.
The first which does not have a detachable caliper bracket is easiest and is as follows:
Remove front wheels
Unbolt calipers from integrated spindle/bracket with proper allen bit and lift calipers and pads and support them.
Remove set screw holding rotor to hub. You may need an impact screwdriver as these seize up with age.
Slide rotor off hub.

The second has a separate detachable bracket that wraps around the rotor.
Remove the front wheels
Remove two caliper bracket bolts holding bracket, caliper and pads onto rotor as a unit.
Some vehicles have a standard bolt in this position, some have a VW special star bolt, so inspect to see if you are equipped to remove these. If you have the star bolts and do not have the proper tool, you need to get it... attempting to use the wrong tool will not end well.
Use a philips screwdriver to remove the set screw holding the rotor to the hub. You may need an impact screwdriver as these screws seize up with age.
Slide rotor off the hub.

loosen the lugs. lift the car and support it safely. take the tires off the front of the car. through the caliper is an allen head bolt. the head of the bolt faces inside the wheel well. you will have to put your head inside the wheel well to see where to put the allen wrench. the size of the allen wrench should be 3/8. loosen the bolt and slide the caliper and brakes off of the rotor. Support the caliper with wire or string. do not let the caliper hang by the soft rubber brake hose. the caliper is the only thing that holds the rotor in place. the rotor should now slide right off the lugnuts. Check the brake pads they need to be replaced also. If the pads spent any kind of time against bad rotors they are garbage.When it is time to put the new brake pads on the saturn open the master cylinder so the brake fluid can return to the reservoir when you compress the calipers back to their resting position. In order to compress the calipers you will probably need a large C clamp. Reassemble the brakes. Remember to check the level of brake fluid and close the master cylinder. Before driving the car be sure to pump the brakes to assure you have proper feel and to make sure everything is in order.

Steps to replace front brake rotors and pads:

Safley jack up vehicle.
support vehicle on safety stands
remove front wheels
Remove 2 bolts holding the caliper to the caliper support.
remove caliper
remove old brake pads
remove 2 bolts holding caliper support to the spindle
remove rotor, might need a good whack with a hammer to loosen rust bond, also might have a locking ring on one lug stud
sand any and all rust from wheel hub
apply a liberal coating of antisiezing compound.
replace rotor and one lug nut to hold rotor steady
replace caliper support
replace new brake pads making sure squeel sensors are on inside upper corner, also make sure to apply caliper grease to caliper slides and pad sliding surfaces push caliper piston back.
replace caliper
replace wheels and torque to specs
lower vehicle
pump pedal
road test listening for any noises.

PS. these are generic instructions that are very basic, performing a brake job is a very precise and careful job. remember this syetem is responcible for stoping your vehicle at 65mph. this is not a job to attemp if you do not have a good grasp of mechanical applications. One mistake could cause you your life or injurt to your persons or someone else. if you are not comfortable undertaking this task please consult a professional.

please feel free to ask any additional questions you might have.

I describe this for a Ranger, but it is similar for your machine
It is pretty straight forward. The Ranger has front disc brakes.
If possible spray everything with brake cleaner to reduce asbestos dust as you work on the brakes. Best not to breathe in any of the nasty debris on the brakes and caliper. If I have them I wear nitril gloves for less mess on the hands.
Take the wheel off. The caliper holds the brake pads. On mine it is two large allen bolts at the inside of the caliper to take it off. You don't have to remove both allen bolts--take off one and then loosen the other. The caliper can then be rotated off the rotor. Now you can remove the rotor--it may have a screw holding it on still--remove that and pull it off the wheel hub.(Sometimes they can be stuck on, but they pretty much are just hanging onto the wheel hub studs) Do one at a time and then if you have any issues, look at the other one. The brake pads themselves kind of snap into place in the caliper. Remove the old ones noting any orientation issues and any shims--some of them come with thin plate shims that fit behind them. When you are ready to replace the pads, you need to use a clamp to drive the caliper piston back so that the pads on the cliper will fit onto the new rotor when they are rotated back. Make sure the bolts on the caliper are tight.
You may want to have the rotors turned--machined flat again--or buy new ones--you can always turn your old ones for next time too.
There rear are less essential since most of the stopping is from the front--let me know if this helps- to push my rating u

It is pretty straight forward. The Ranger has front disc brakes.
If possible spray everything with brake cleaner to reduce asbestos dust as you work on the brakes. Best not to breathe in any of the nasty debris on the brakes and caliper. If I have them I wear nitril gloves for less mess on the hands.
Take the wheel off. The caliper holds the brake pads. On mine it is a large allen bolt at the inside of the caliper to take it off. You don't have to remove both allen bolts--take off one and then loosen the other. THer caliper can then be rotated off the rotor. Now you can remove the rotor--it may have a screw holding it on still--remove that and pull it off the wheel hub.(Sometimes they can be stuck on, but they pretty much are just hanging onto the wheel hub studs) Do one at a time and then if you have any issues, look at the other one. The brake pads themselves kind of snap into place in the caliper. Remove the old ones noting any orientation issues and any shims--some of them come with thin plate shims that fit behind them. When you are ready to replace the pads, you need to use a clamp to drive the caliper piston back so that the pads on the cliper will fit onto the new rotor when they are rotated back. Make sure the bolts on the caliper are tight.
There rear are less essential since most of the stopping is from the front--let me know if this helps to push my rating up.

you should only have to take off the tire and the calipers, and the caliper bracket, there is no hub on the front wheels. there should be 2 bolts holding on the caliper bracket, usually with a big allen screw. they may be stuck so use a hammer to tap them loose. good luck