I want to bleed my brakes on 2003 Yukon XL. After replacing pads and rotors I feel there should be better brake ''feel''. I did minimal bleeding but want to do a complete service. With ABS what is best method beside shaving the engine running to make sure pump is operating> Please describe parts and or method
If you forced the pads back into the calipers without loosening the bleeders you probably forced gunk into the abs modulator valves. Sometimes doing the automated bleed proceedure (need Tech or Bi Directional Scanner) will bring things back to life.
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Re: ABS bleeding technique on GMC Yukon
A very common thing, I've had symptoms like that before. For some reason the larger GM vehicles around that year seem to have a low petal symptom after doing the brakes, almost feeling spongy. Don't worry, just take it for a test drive and put about 5 to 10 miles on it. When the new pads seat in it usualy solves the problem. If it is still doing it, try to bleed the abs module, just like regular brake bleeding, but there is a bleeder on the abs module located near the master cyllender. also make sure you're not leaking brake fluid, from a line or caliper.
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Jack, wheel wrench, socket set, large screw driver, pair of pliers or grips. Lithium grease for the pins. Watch all of these videos.
I want to know a ill bit more about how the problem started. If it just went from having brakes to not having brakes it could be the brake master cylinder, or on gm vehicles they have a brake proportion valve. Let me know how it started please
Try having the dealer flush and bleed your system. It is very hard to bleed ABS systems yourself and have safe brakes that still work afterward. Bleeding non-ABS brakes yourself is easy not the same for ABS brakes. Valving, sensors and what-not require a tech and the correct equipment in my opinion. You do it wrong and you could ruin your ABS system. Do that and see if they firm up. I replaced my brake shoes/pads at the same time all new everything in back, drums/springs everything and new rotors up front. then I had the chevy dealer flush, refill and bleed system. Stiffer pedal and brakes work better. Keep in mind the brakes on 99 Tahoes are inaedequate, require new rotors often, heat up and fade/glaze pads regularly. I replace my pads long before they wear down because they glaze up and start fading early. I'll rough em up once maybe, next time, new ones. Every two brake jobs, new rotors for me. Just how it is. They will stiffen a bit and work better but they will never be awesome brakes. Just how it is on 99 and earlier Tahoes. Hope it helps. Very important to bleed correctly though. I'll bleed my 83 Toyota 4x4 myself but not the Tahoe.
don't need any special tools, standard sockets sets, "C" clams is a must unless your a He-Man and wrench set, plyer or needle nose will do. I assumed being 2003 your rotor never have been turn and i recommend every time you change your bakes is good idea to have your rotor turn. reason is it will make your pad last lot longer, removed any vibration and better even wear on the pad and eliminate any squealing although is not necessary to do so. make sure you get extra break fluid to bleed the brakes. get your self 5 feet long smallest vacum rubber hoses and a glass jar to bleed your brake fluid in. the rubber vacum hose you going to use to fit on to the bleeding nipple and run the other end of line to your the glass jar to save the brake fluid when you bleed the brakes. when removing caliper, check inspect make sure the rubber seals around your piston look good and not crack or deteriorated. before applying new pad make sure you open the bleed valve to reduce the pressure by turning the bleed nipple counter clockwise and leave it open attach that rubber hoses to the nipple because you going to press on the piston back into it housing with the "C" clamp in order for new pad to fit. becareful not to damage the rubber seals around the piston. its going to take lots of effort to push that piston back in so be a bare with it if needs to. once the pad is back in make sure you keep the reservoir full with brake fluid and then bleed the brake. two people is a good idea to do brake. one will do the pumping the brake and holding it down and other will bleed the nipple. I bleed it 2-3 time will do the job. good luck!
There is nothing special that you need to do. You need to make sure that you bleed the brake system starting at the master cylinder FIRST. You also want to make sure that you do not have any more leaks or open lines. Do not turn the car on until the brakes are bled or the air will go into the other circuits. The other thing to look out for is bad brake pads, If these are worn they can cause kind of a spongy pedal.
u will need to check the wheel speed sensors behind the brake rotors to see if they got damaged or disconnected during the brake job, as long as the ABS light is on the Anti-lock brake system is disabled, regular braking without the need of ABS will feel fine.
Hi Tora, Go to the back brakes. This is where the prob could be. But with you bleeding the brakes, the peddle has went beyond its normal travel causing the rubbers in the master cylinder to get messed up. Happens too often! Replace the master cylinder 'after' you had a good look at the back! Frankster016