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It runs inside the wiring harness. I always run a new line, if it isn't broke at the engine. I drill a hole in the fire wall, run the line. I put something between the line and firewall so it doesn't rub threw and silicone it in place.
Well your engine has a carb, so it could be dirt in the carb, or a vac leak, or several other possible causes. Does the choke close when the engine is first started ? Have you checked the fuel line to see if the pump is providing gas ?
Yes you can run the engine without the sensor, maybe. When you disconnect the sensor the computer uses a signal or number preset in the computer memory. Sometimes the engine will run and sometimes not, but it won't do any damage either way. A mechanic would test the sensor by using a meter and a vac pump. The sensor measures engine vac. You could always try a used part.
First. Check the vacum routing from the egr. facing the engine, the vac.
line should go to the right and connect to the egr vacum regulator
solenoid. The line from the solenoid to manifold vacum. The solenoid
is also connected to the powertrain ctrl. module And some models,
have a egr sensor. the two vac.lines from the sensor(if equipped)go to
the exaust below the egr valve. The three wires from the sensor go to the pcm. At this I would plug in the obd2 scanner if no vac.leaks or
bad connections have been found. This can narrow the field greatly.
You can stop by an autozone/napa etc. they will scan it for free.
I hope this helps. Good luck.
If the vac. line went to the distributer cap you need to get a new 1 take off the line and take it to the auto parts store and get a new 1. What that vac. line does is adjust the timing when you give the car gas. Did he make shur to gap the plugs to the wright gap? If he did and you put a new vac. line on check all of the vac. line if they have cracks change them. If the still runs ruff he might have moved the distributer, or he might have got the wires wrong if he changed the spark plug wires. Change the vac. lines first they are cheap.
shift into 4wd and move truck a couple of feet.
if light is still off, park truck block the wheels set the park brake jack right front wheel and try to hand spin the wheel if wheel doesn't turn 4x4 is functioning properly but there is a wiring problem use an ohmmeter to check the 4x4 switch wiring fuse and bulb
if wheel turns freely the front axle or transfer case is not engaged
attempt to hand spin the front driveshft if the driveshaft will spin the transfer case is not engaged check the transfer case shift linkage, problem is in linkage or transfer case internals
if the driveshaft will not spin the transfer case is engaged properly
with trnsmission in neutral or park start engine measure vacuum on the two vac lines at front axle shift motor . one line should have approx 20" vacuum. other line should have none
if no vacuum measured look for vac leak or bad vac switch
if both lines have vac look for a bad vac swithc or ruptured cad actuator diaphragm
if one line has 20" +- VAC
move transfer case lever to 2wd measure vac again lines should have swapped vac signals
if no vac switch bad or 4wd shift likage needs adjusting
if yes vac motor bad or stuck or shift fork stuck
remove vac shift motor from the axle attach vac lines to shift motor engage disengage 4wd
does shift motor plunger move at least 1/2 inch
no shift motor bad
yes check axle shift fork and vac motor for binging