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Re: 2000 Linc ls v8 auto question james from ILL.
Maybe you won't need to. On the fire wall you will see 2 hoses an inlet and an outlet.that go directly into the heater core. Sometimes the heater core is clogged. disconnect the hoses and use a water hose running at only a moderate flow. put it into one of the the inlet of the heater core and run water until you see clear coolant. Then do it on the outlet and run it until the coolant is clear. you are trying to remove any clogs the heater may have. if this does not work, check the heater control valve.move the temperature slider the one to control the temp inside the car. and see if you can hear anything move. Check to see what type it is it can be a vacuum controled vavle, or a cable hooked on to the valve or an electronic controled valve. if it is a vacuum controled valve, you can check to see if a vacuume hose is disconnected, if it is a cable type valve,check it by moving the temperature control inside the car open it and close it with your fingers if you can see it. But most likely it may be the heater core thats clogged.
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You must wait for the thermostat to open up, crank your heater on full, you will get only cold air once the thermostat opens it will start to heat up, heather runing wait for thermostat to open youll see your coolant bottle bubble up and go down , then you loosen the bleeding valve if you got one, cooling system service should be done all together , change thermostat,flush the coolant system, replace hoses if needed, if thermostat is shut and wont open up your more likely will blow a hose from the pressure .ty
If your talking about the heat inside the car, yes. It is vacuum operated. On the passenger side. The hoses are about 1 inch in diameter. The valve is spliced in one of them. Make sure the vacuum is present before replacing.
Feel your heater hoses. If both are hot, the core is circulating. If only one is hot-poor or no circulation of the core. If the heater core is circulating, the temperature blend door may not be working to let blower air pass across the heater core, and into the vents. If vacuum operated, watch the vacuum valves as you move heater controls-you may spot the problem. Check that the vacuum line from the engine to the control switch is working and still connected. If not operated by vacuum, the controls may have cables to the heater case or may be electrically operated. You'll just have to scope it out. Good luck.
it sounds as if you have two problems,one the heater core is plugged and two you have a heater core that is leaking.the leak is shown when you use the defroster by the smell and chances are there is a light film of antifreeze on the windsheild.and the plugged heater core is shown by no heat.check the radiator to make sure the coolant level is full and the overflow bottle is at the full level. as a low coolant level in the radiator will cause no heat.with the car warmed up(radiator coolant hot), check the heater hoses at the firewall were they enter the heater core they should be the same temperature from one hose to the other.if the coolant level is up and the hoses are the same temperature then the heater core is plugged.if the coolant temperature is the same from hose to hose but not hot to the touch the thermostat may be weak and needs replacing.either way the heater core will need to be replaced as it is leaking into the heater box assembly
the simplest fix is to check your coolant level, if the radiator is low enough your heat wont come on. when the car is warmed up, switch the engine off and check the level in the over flow bottle (located on the passager side) first squeeze the upper radiator hose with a shop towel to check for back pressure. if theres too much pressure wait for the engine to cool down longer. using the towel again remove the overflow cap, the bottle is pressurized so do so slowly to allow any stem to escape without burning you. if the coolant bottle is low, topoff with DEXCOOL (GM approved coolant) once bottle is at the 'full hot' line replace cap and start car back up and switch heat on high/defrost. odds are decent this will fix the issue, and it will only cost you a bottle of antifreeze :)
I've had this problem. 2000 GMC uses a closed coolant system. Meaning takes and returns coolant from and to the Reserve Bottle and has little air in the engine and heater systems.
If everything appears ok but no heat. "Air Lock" is the most likely cause. (With interior heater set to full heat) Solution; 1. Make sure water pump works. 2. Drain about 1/2 engine coolant into container. 3 Remove both heater hoses from engine side and flush heater core in both directs through heater hoses with garden hose. 4. Reattach heater hoses in correct locations. 4. Refill engine with coolant. 5 Start engine and run for 2 min., use caution when topping up coolant.
6. Most 2000 GMC have twist off caps with plugs located mid way on heater hoses. with engine cold, start engine these caps may be loosened to allow trapped air to escape. Do not attempt with engine hot due to hot coolant injuries. This may take more than one attempt to remove all air from heat system. 7. Lastly most 2000 GMC water pumps have a bleeder plug,( 3/8" square driver plug) located on the water pump. With egine cold this plug should be removed to remove any air. Reinstall plug with thread sealant.
Hope this helps cheers