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Re: 2000 Linc ls v8 auto question james from ILL.
Maybe you won't need to. On the fire wall you will see 2 hoses an inlet and an outlet.that go directly into the heater core. Sometimes the heater core is clogged. disconnect the hoses and use a water hose running at only a moderate flow. put it into one of the the inlet of the heater core and run water until you see clear coolant. Then do it on the outlet and run it until the coolant is clear. you are trying to remove any clogs the heater may have. if this does not work, check the heater control valve.move the temperature slider the one to control the temp inside the car. and see if you can hear anything move. Check to see what type it is it can be a vacuum controled vavle, or a cable hooked on to the valve or an electronic controled valve. if it is a vacuum controled valve, you can check to see if a vacuume hose is disconnected, if it is a cable type valve,check it by moving the temperature control inside the car open it and close it with your fingers if you can see it. But most likely it may be the heater core thats clogged.
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You must wait for the thermostat to open up, crank your heater on full, you will get only cold air once the thermostat opens it will start to heat up, heather runing wait for thermostat to open youll see your coolant bottle bubble up and go down , then you loosen the bleeding valve if you got one, cooling system service should be done all together , change thermostat,flush the coolant system, replace hoses if needed, if thermostat is shut and wont open up your more likely will blow a hose from the pressure .ty
If your talking about the heat inside the car, yes. It is vacuum operated. On the passenger side. The hoses are about 1 inch in diameter. The valve is spliced in one of them. Make sure the vacuum is present before replacing.
Sorry but its common for this year to have a hyd cooling fan motor to go bad along with the coolant degas tank breaking...you'll need ford pn# XW4Z-8K621-AA motor and a # 388898S washer to replace, along with the degas tank..don't forget p/s fluid to refill the system...BESURE you totally PURGE the cooling or it will O/Heat in 2 blocks ....hope this helps you...GL
2000 LS cooling system is a very tough system to diagnosis. Any kind of air in system will totally stop the flow and cause it to heat.That is the reason it has 2 places to bleed the air from the system.The one at the engine where the upper hose connects and one beside the brake booster near the degas bottle(rubber tube with a screw end).
The cooling fan is also hydraulic and has it's own power steering pump. The good thing about this system is that it uses a cylinder head temp sensor that measures the metal temp and not engine coolant temp. When the PCM sees the CHT reach a certain temp it will start shutting down 4 cylinders at a time and use these cylinders as actual air pumps to help cool the engine down.If this does not work it will then shut the engine down totally until the temps come back down.
The most common problems we see are thermostats,crack degas bottle,or a leak somewhere,and of course air in the system. Have not seen a cracked head yet however did see one that pushed the plug out of the cooling port in the head but this also filled the oil with coolant.
Have also seen cooling fans that would not work until PCM demmanded high speed,caused by a weak power steering pump.
You also could have air in your coolant system. You can't just add coolant on these models after you drain the system or let it run low on coolant. The degas bottles on these models also have a flaw, where they crack along a seam. Sometimes coolant will leak, sometimes not, depending on how high the crack is on the bottle. But what it is guaranteed to do is allow air into your system, which can cause havoc with overheating (air surrounds the thermostat so it doesn't open) and keep coolant from flowing, particularly through the highest point in the system: the heater core. There is a heater core bleeder valve attached to a line near the top of the degas bottle (next to the expension line up top) with a plastic, flathead srewdriver face. Turn the heat on high and run the system at idle for 5 minutes. Then open the valve and keep it open until a steady stream of coolant comes out. (It's like bleeding your brakes.) That will clear any air from the system and at least give you peace of mind that this is not your problem. Then run the motor at 2000 rpms, with the heat still on high, for about 5 minutes or until hot air starts coming out. Release the bleeder valve again until a steady stream comes out. Then let the system cool and check your coolant level and fill as needed. I'd pull the degas bottle and inspect it...should have been a recall.
I just bought a 2000 Lincoln ls V8 3.9L, i've had it for couple of days.I took a drive in it the other day, and noticed the car was overheating. Replaced thermostat, and water pump. Car is still overheating, I need some help?