Question about Oldsmobile Bravada

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I have a 1998 olds bravada. when driving, the truck shimmys from side to side. Ball joints are good, tie rods good, hubs are good and alignment is good. small amount of play in both idler arm and pittman arm. would the small amount of play in both arms cause this shimmy?

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  • Anonymous Mar 26, 2014

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I don,t think this can cause a shimmy, there should only be some play in the steering wheel. Check the tirs and see if any belts are broken wthin and for visible bulges, this can cause a shimmy. Also if you are not the original owner, is it possible that someone hit a curbe and bent the spindle a tad. I knew of a GMC Safari that had this problem.

Posted on Nov 30, 2008

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Hit a bump the the steering wheel shimmies


most likely cause is a ball joint first suspect is the track rod ends ,possibly even the inner ones on the steering rack ,but it could be a lower track control arm joint or bush as well ,doesnt this vehicle have a yearly mechanical inspection ?? and six months in the case of a commercial vehicle like this one

Jul 02, 2011 | 1996 Ford F350 Crew Cab

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How to change a tie rod what.tools should be used


  1. Most tie rods consists of a Ball-Joint assembly. After removing the tire, you will need to pull the Tie-Rod Nut Retaining Pin before trying to take off the Tie-Rod Ball Joint Nut.
  2. After the Nut is removed, you can use a ball-joint separator to separate the ball-joint from the Hub assembly.
  3. After the Ball-joint is separated, mark the position of the old Tie-Rod where it connects to the Rack and Pinion assembly, and then remove the tie rod using a wrench.
  4. Installation is the reverse of disassembly.
  5. Once it is back together, you will need to get your vehicle aligned.

Mar 27, 2011 | Oldsmobile 98 Cars & Trucks

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The left front seems to be shaking when i drive,any ideas?


WHEEL SHIMMY CAN BE CAUSED BY WORN TIE ROD ENDS,BAD WHEEL BEARINGS,WORN OUT BALL JOINTS,WHEEL OUT OF BALANCE OR FRONT END NEEDS ALIGNMENT.

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What causes my 91 chevy lumina front end to vibrate when driving


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How to replace lower left front ball joint ?


Removal & Installation NOTE This procedure requires the use of the following special tools: J 9519-E Lower Ball Joint Remover and Installer, J 34874 Booster Seal Remover/Installer, J 41435 Ball Joint Installer, J 45105-1 Ball Joint Flaring Adapter and J 45105-2 Receiver.

  1. On 4WD vehicles, remove the wheel center cap and drive axle nut.
  2. Raise and support the vehicle.
  3. Remove or disconnect the following:
    • Tire and wheel
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if necessary
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut
    • Out tie rod from the steering knuckle using a suitable puller
    • Brake hose bracket retaining bolts and bracket
    • Upper control arm-to-steering knuckle pinch bolt and nut
    • Upper control arm from the steering knuckle
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut
    • Steering knuckle from the lower control arm using a suitable ball joint removal tool
    • Steering knuckle from the vehicle
    • Lower ball joint flange with a chisel
  4. Install tools J 9519-E and J 34874 to the lower ball joint, then use those tools to remove the lower ball joint from the lower control arm.
To install:
  1. Install or connect the following:
    • Lower ball joint to the lower control arm, using tools J 9519-E, J 41435 and J 45105-2
  2. Remove the tools from the lower control arm.
    • Tools J 9519-E and J 45105-1 to the lower ball joint
  3. Flare the lower ball joint flange with J 9519-E and J 45105-1, then remove the tools from the lower ball joint.
    • Steering knuckle to the lower control arm
    • Lower ball joint retaining nut and tighten to 81 ft. lbs. (110 Nm)
    • Upper control arm to the steering knuckle
    • Upper control arm pinch bolt and nut and tighten to 30 ft. lbs. (41 Nm)
    • Brake hose bracket to the steering knuckle
    • Brake hose bracket retaining nuts and tighten to 7 ft. lbs. (10 Nm)
    • Outer tie rod to the steering knuckle
    • Outer tie rod retaining nut and tighten to 33 ft. lbs. (45 Nm)
    • Wheel hub and bearing, if removed
    • Tire and wheel
  4. Lower the vehicle
    • Drive axle nut, if 4WD, and tighten to 103 ft. lbs. (140 Nm)
    • Wheel center cap, if removed
  5. Check the front wheel alignment.

Nov 30, 2009 | 2002 Oldsmobile Bravada

3 Answers

1997 Grand Prix GT with 134,000 mi has a slight vibration/shimmy felt at the steering wheel at speeds above 65 mph. All new struts fwd and aft, alignment and new wheels and tires have been replaced in the...


If your tires were not properly balanced then it will cause that. Also, if your rotors are warped then icould cause this to happen. YOu would also notice it when braking if rotors are warped.

Oct 20, 2009 | Pontiac Grand Prix Cars & Trucks

2 Answers

Steering wheel shimmy at highway speeds


This sounds like tie rod ends are going out. Before you remove the old ones, mark on the threads where it currently is seated or you will throw it out of alingment when you put new ones on. You may need to borrow or buy the tool for poping out the tie rod end. They aren't a big deal to change if you have some basic tools and sometimes you don't need the wedge tool either. Once you get the old one out, try moving it around. If it is real loose and moves easily, thats your problem. But the swaying you are describing sound like this is the problem. Could be you steering control arms as well but because the inside of the tires are worn I doubt it.

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1 Answer

1995 Ford Crown Victoria - shakes/vibrates @ highway speeds.


Alignment has alot to do with the tires not shimmying.. Like zero toe setting. Loose componants like tie rod ends and the idler ar worn. You can ck for excess front end play by holding the front and back of the wheel and pushing and pulling on it, like rocking it. OR have someone rock the steering while you watch where the play is from underneath. By rocking I mean turn the steering wheel back and forth. Look at all th joints and pivot points for excess play, which is, movement not immediate to the rest of the steering system. Tire balance is very important. Wheel hop is a sign of a bad tire and it overtaxes the shock absorber. Shocks don't cause shimmy because they are a vertical movement controlA shimmy is lateral or side to side.Wheel balance weights must be spit. If a 2 oz. weight is needed to balance the tire, Oe once should be on the inside of the wheel and one ounce on the outside directly across from each outher.. Loose wheel brgs will cause shimmy, but they would not last long. Caster setting on the wheel alignment will also cause shimmy. Like on a shopping car. too much caster causes the wheel to start fluttering and is very hard on other componants. This may be why you have worn tie rod ends and a bad pitman arm. Worn control arm bushings and ball joints directly affect titre wear and can only be feltwhen the front end hits a dip and detected by side wear on the tire edges. Summary: replace the tie rod end and have the car aligned. Good Luck, -Ned_ sorry about the book

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