Engine knocks and high oil consumption ,Toyota Hilux 3L Engine.
I had an engine reworked, changed out a used 3L engine block for the old block was worn down pass the bore limits.
However, the Bearings were reused but all other items including the rings,Valve Stem Seals, Gaskets etc,were replaced.
After a month of running the Vehicle, the oil consumption increased and eventually the mechanical knocking sound become obviously loud.
I intend to have another work on the engine,however what are some tips to solve the current problem?
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Did you get the head reworked? If not then your head is most likely damaged. Heads should always be reworked when an over heating condition exists as the aluminum head easily warps. Otherwise it sounds like you may have other issues. If the head was not torqued down in the correct sequence, head bolts not replaced (should never be reused), cracked head, cracked block....too many possibilities to diagnose over the internet.
what was entailed in the rebuild?
cylinders bored and hone , new pistons , rings
crank grind and new bearings
or was it just a ring refresh and sand paper on the cylinders
I'm thinking the latter ( cheap and nasty)
The oil will be coming past the rings and being burnt in the exhaust ( cat converter if you still have one )
That oil passing the rings comes from , glazed bores , rings being installed upside down, ring gaps not being set 120 degrees apart but almost lining up
worn ring lands in the pistons
Sump oil either leaks out -- Gaskets , seals filters or is passed by the rings and burnt in the combustion process
Remove Engine From Vehicle, Strip Engine And Wash Clean, Take Engine Block ,Conrods,Cylinder Head To Machine Shop Ask Them To Check all Sizes For Wear Etc If Worn Beyond Usefull Limits Purchace New Liners And Pistons And Have Them Fit It For You, Some Times The Bore Changes Shape I.E. Bore Is Oval If So They Do Supply Oversize Chrome Linners So That the Block Can Be Borred Round Before Fitthing New Linners! Check Crank Shaft And Cam Shaft , Cylinder Head Should Be Presure Tested And Vave Guides Checked, Valves Should Be Checked For Wear Seating And Lapped Back In Injector pump Service And Injectors Serviced Get Full Overhall Gasket Set New Set Mains and Big End Bearings , You Should now Be ready To Re Assemble Your New engine! Good Luck!
To start with, why on earth would an engine with re-used bearings, oil pump and cam need a "break-in" in the first place?
Then, it deserves mention that the number 1 cause of low oil pressure in a small block chevy engine is wear in the cam and/or cam bearings. The second highest cause is worn crankshaft main and rod bearings and the third highest cause is an oil pump that has too much internal clearance or an oil pump pick-up screen that is clogged with debris from shady repair work.
Sounds to me like you problem is probably related to the fact that the engine has not been "built", but rather, assembled with the same old worn out parts that most likely caused the need for it to be "built" in the first place.
First thing is to tear it down and make sure you mark what pistons went in what cylinders. Then you will need to take precise measurments of the cylinders, looking for "out of round' and taper. This involves the use of micrometers. If the cylinders are within wear limits then you can just install new rings and hone the cylinder walls. If they are not then the block and all the pistons need to go to the machine shop for "boring out" the cylinders and pressing on new pistons. The crankshaft will also need to be measured at the bearing surfaces. If they are within wear limits then the crank can be polished and reused, if not then it has to be replaced. All cylinder head work needs to be done by a machine shop.
After all the measurments have been taken, the right size rings, and bearings can be ordered. Rebuilding an engine is not a task that should be done by a novice.
Crankshaft and Main Bearings REMOVAL & INSTALLATION NOTE: When draining coolant, keep in mind that cats and dogs are attracted by the ethylene glycol antifreeze, and are quite likely to drink any that is left in an uncovered container or in puddles on the ground. This will prove fatal in sufficient quantity. Always drain the coolant into a sealable container. Coolant should be reused unless it is contaminated or several years old. CAUTION The EPA warns that prolonged contact with used engine oil may cause a number of skin disorders, including cancer! You should make every effort to minimize your exposure to used engine oil. Protective gloves should be worn when changing the oil. Wash your and and any other exposed skin areas as soon as possible after exposure to used engine oil. Soap and water, or waterless hand cleaner should be used.
Disconnect the negative battery cable.
Drain the cooling system and engine crankcase.
Remove the engine from the vehicle.
Remove the crankshaft front pulley, front cover, timing chain and sprockets, cylinder head, oil pan, oil pump and intermediate driveshaft.
Remove the rear oil seal cover bolts and remove the cover.
Remove the piston assemblies.
NOTE: Mark the connecting rods and bearing caps so they can be installed in the proper cylinders.
Remove the main bearing caps and bearing.
Carefully lift the crankshaft out of the crankcase, so No. 3 thrust bearing surfaces are not damaged.
Remove the main bearing inserts from the engine block and bearing caps.
NOTE: For cleaning purposes, the oil gallery and coolant drain plugs can be removed. To install:
Wash the cylinder block thoroughly to remove all foreign material and dry before assembling other components. Check to ensure all oil holes are fully open and clean. Check to ensure the bearing inserts and bearing bores are clean. Clean the mating surfaces of the crankcase and each main bearing cap.
Install the main bearings in the cylinder block. Note that the center front bearing is a thrust bearing and the front upper bearing has a small "V'' notch on the parting line face.
Lubricate the bearings with clean engine oil.
Carefully lower the crankshaft into place. Be careful not to damage the bearing surfaces.
Check the clearance of each main bearing as outlined in this section.
After the bearing has been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings. Install the bearing cap in their original locations . (refer to numbers on caps). The caps must be installed with the arrows pointing to ward the front of the engine. Oil the bolts and tighten to specifications. Repeat the procedure for the remaining bearings.
NOTE: Turn the crankshaft to check for turning torque. The turning torque should not exceed 4.5 ft. lbs. (6 Nm).
Install the pistons and connecting rod caps. Check clearance of each bearing, as out lined in this section.
After the connecting rod bearings have been fitted, apply a light coat of engine oil to the journal and bearings.
Turn the crankshaft throw to the bottom of its stroke. Pull the piston all the way down until the rod bearing seats on the crankshaft journal.
NOTE: Guide the rod to prevent crankshaft journal and oil cooling jet damage.
Install the connecting rod cap. Align the marks on the rods with the marks on the cap, and tighten the nut.
After the piston and connecting rod assemblies have been installed, check the side clearance between the connecting rods on each connecting rod crankshaft journal.
Install the rear crankshaft seal and cover. Tighten the bolts to 5–7 ft. lbs. (7–10 Nm).
Installation of the remaining components is in the reverse order of removal.
Give the engine a compression test and see if its down in comp if so then its either or all the below.or part of..
Engine bores worn/Piston rings worn/Valve seats and seals worn/Bearings Big End and Mains worn/ and if not worn could be Rings broken or stuck in ring groves. So do the test first
AS for the smoke when you first start up is due to..... when its been run and then stopped as cooling down the hot oil in the rocker covers and on the valves and springs ,,the hot oil runs down past the seals on the valves and when engine is turned over the oil is sucked into the bores and burnt ,,so causing BLUE smoke out the exhaust.
Let me know how you get on with it Ron
back vent on valve cover? some is normal especially when hot. you must take into consideration, all engines have blow by(fuel-oil vapor) that if your not re-directing into the intake to be reburned, will be exspelled through the vents. if oil is this or old or if is running hot, that this will cause this also