Stopped hard at a stop light, engine stalled out, ran rough and died.
Recharged battery, replaced spark plugs with new ones, found vacuum hose line came out of intake manifold -replaced it. found burnt vacuum hose to egr valve, replace it. Set reset button on inertia switch - still will not start. 3.0 liter, 6 cyclinder, 80,000 miles, done normal driving conditions, no hard driving. replaced oil with synthetic Mobil one every 4,000 miles. changed air filter. Last oil change 2100 miles ago.
Check if fuel or spark problem,..all engines need both to run...use starting fluid in air intake ,..if it runs very shortly-fuel pmp?,,ck for spark at spark plug,work your way back..also ck timing belt-intact? Kev-MN
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change your fuel filter ..your vehicle will run but your fuel pressure is weak ..also after this clean your fuel injectors by pouring injection cleaner in your gas ,,it will correct itself..Also ,,if none of what I stated works ,,Spark plugs and new spark plug wires needed ,,Lastly your fuel pump
Cold weather has an adverse affect on batteries. The clicking sound could be from the starter solenoid not receiving enough voltage to energize the starter motor. The engine being hesitant to start and run could indicate the need of new spark plugs, wires, etc.
Your first mistake is thinking that the only thing that can cause a misfire is a coil or spark plug. Misfires can be caused by MANYthings, including faulty fuel injectors, injector control circuits, blown head gaskets, vacuum leaks, burned valves, broken valve springs, low compression due to cylinder damage, worn piston rings, damaged or worn camshafts, etc..
I would recommend getting this problem properly diagnosed by a professional. Failure to fix misfire codes promptly can cause severe engine damage and destroy high-dollar parts like oxygen Sensors,catalytic converters, engine blocks and cylinder heads.
3 years ago, my car was running really rough. No accelleration, stalling etc. I narrowed it down to the distributor and changed it myself for about 100 bucks. Then last week, the car would start sometimes and sometimes not. When it would not start, I found that it had no spark. So it finally quit altogether. I put the old distributor back in (Yes, I kept it), and it ran. It ran rough like it did 3 years prior, but it ran. I have purchased another distributor for $100, and will put it in, and it will fix the problem. The distributor is an all in one package. Coils, rotor, pickups. It's held on by 2 bolts (12mm socket). Pretty easy to change out, just pay attention to the way the rotor is pointing when you take the old one out, and put the new one in the same. 3 year lifespan due to a sh*tty oil seal on them.
I am going to assume that it will not run even if you push on the accelerator pedal? Can you install or attach an old timing light to the spark plug wires, turn it one and try to start it. The light should flash with the engine running, but if it shuts off at time of engine die, and the engine is still spinning, you are losing spark, My suggestion is the cranks shaft sensor on bell housing. Second, install a pressure gage on the test port on the fuel rail and watch it as you start the engine, fuel pressure should not drop as the engine dies, if it does, the pump is not working correctly. There are two modes of power to that pump, one to start and timed, for only a few seconds to prime the system, and one to run continuously. Find the wires going to the pump at the tank. Connect test light to those wires and watch what happens during crank and at stall, You should not have the pump shut off and the engine dies. If you have spark, and fuel pump working, when did you last change the filter,,but I put that LAST. It has to be one or the other of these. Good Luck