Question about 1991 Buick Park Avenue

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91 Buick Park Ave won't start

91 Buick PA won't start replaced crank sensor and coild pack. Think it's burning up crank sensor. Still not spark to plugs. Engine does turn over, but not full enough to start.

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  • phantommech Apr 16, 2009

    I'm dealing with the same problem with my friends park avenue. The service engine light was on for six years tripping a cam sensor code and tough the car was still running they took it to several mechanics to repair the intermitant stalling problem that they believed was caused by the cam sensor. The cam sensor had been replaced three times with no change in the code before it was brought to me. When they brought it to me I immediately removed the cam sensor and turned the motor by hand to where I could view the interuptor in the cam gear only to discover that the magnet had been dislodged. After the nightmare that was replacing the interuptor the care seemed to be completely repaired now two weeks later the car is back at my shop with no spark. I tested the primary and secondary resistance on the coil and checked the cam and crank sensors and discovered that they were all working properly but there was no power to the coil. I checked fuses and traced wires and that has led me to the cars security system. The key chip is putting out 11.74 ohms of resistance which I believe is in range but I'm not to sure about the contacts in the ignition cylinder is there a clever way to test those contacts or bypass the security system?

  • eric_n_chris Apr 20, 2009

    my 1991 buick park ave wont start

  • lacrow146900
    lacrow146900 Apr 09, 2013

    To bypass the VATS, ohm out the key, at the bottom of the steering column the should be a white wire that goes from the ignition cylinder to the VATS module, put the same ohm resistor in that wire and it will trick the VATS into thinking the right ignition key is being used.

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I just came across this problem myself the other day. i have a 91 buick park avenue that sometimes won't start. i checked several things out like cable connections and coil pack etc. etc. come to find out it was the wiring that came off the coil pack and connects to the crank sensor. the wiring that ran over top of the water pump had finally heated up so bad the coating on the wires had melted and when the engine got hot enough the wires would come in contact and send false signals to the computer not letting it start. after the car cools down and the wires contract it would start. so check the wires from the coil pack to the crank sensor to make sure the wires are not melted together.

Posted on Jan 16, 2010

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Did you check to see if the mjagnet is still on the camshaft gear? Could possible be the ECM. Tap lightlyon ecm while cranking. Do you hear the fuel pump run for 2-3seconds after you turn the key on? Also if you replaced the ignition key from other than a dealer you may have the wrong resistance, plus there are 2 leads from the ign lock cyclinder that may be broken

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • Steven Alexander Oct 09, 2013

    Yea I replaced the inturprator and still got the same problem, I'm looking into it

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This is for phantommech ... The first question I need to ask is whethe the key has a "pellet" on it which most call a chip. what you need to do is test the resistance on the key itself. If that key does not send a signal to the VATS system the car will think it is being towed and it will tell the ECM to not allow the starter to turn or the fuel pump to send gas to the carbeurator. If the key is fine... the next step you do is check to see if you are getting resistance... to do this there is an orange or black wire that houses two small white wires. Those wires run down the steering coulmn and plug into the ignition switch module. What I ended up doing was locating the VATS module itself and clipping the two wires that come out of the "BACK" of where those two wires were connected on the ignition switch. The VATS system is located behind the glove box. Run radio wire from the VATS module to the two coming from the steering column and connect them together. If you had to buy a new key lock cylinder then make sure you take the old key to a chevrolet dealer to find out what the VATS number is then have them cut the key with that VATS blank... The regular ILCO keys do not work at all I tried them and had to replace the key four times before having the dealer cut a new key.

Posted on May 04, 2009

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Check ecm if it has a #1228253 replace it. GM had a cutting off problem with them. Clean battery cables too.

Posted on Apr 26, 2009

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Could be the coolent sensor but most likely the ignition control modular or camshaft (not crankshaft) sensors. One by the pully the other by the water pump. I'd start with that one since you dont need a pully to get to it. Auto zone and napa test the ignition mods and say they are good, but the test they run on them does not get them hot enough they also check the coil pack. You might want to check the the wire leading to both of the cam shaft sensors as well.

Posted on Apr 23, 2009

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I have a 97 Riviera that has a starting problem once in a while. Turn the key and nothing at all happens, excpet the lights all come on - but no starter.... no click even. I have always suspected the ignition switch, but your comments about the resistance chip in the key makes me wonder if that's it??

Posted on Jun 07, 2009

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