Question about 1996 Chrysler Concorde

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Noisy front end after repairs

On my 1996 Chrysler Concorde I had the right front axle replaced as well as all outer tie rod bushings (?), and now I have a loud squeek (sounds like bed springs) near the right front strut area. It wasn't making that sound before the work. The repair shop says it's caused by the strut's wear (130K miles.) If that is the case why no noise before the repairs?

Any ideas?

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  • Chrysler Master
  • 21,388 Answers

Sounds like the McPherson strut rubbing on the bodywork. Take it back for repair. If the strut was worn, it would have been clunky before hand.

Posted on Aug 19, 2017

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Posted on Jan 02, 2017

  • 1056 Answers

SOURCE: Tie rod 1994 Chrysler concorde

You will need a tool for disconnecting the outer tie rod end (you can do it without the tool, but it does make it harder).
Other then that, it's pretty much straight nut & bolt work (undo, reattach). It's not really a weirdness job, it is pretty straight forward.
Before you take it apart, measure length, and have your wheels straight while up on the stands. When you reassemble, try to have the measurements close to what they were when you started. I would also suggest changing both sides at the same time (wear will factor in).
Once you are done with the job, you will need to take it in for an alignment.
Front end wear and alignment go hand and hand. The more "slop" in the front end because of wear will affect how accurate you can get the front alignment.

Tire wear also factors in. If your tires have over 30K miles, you might want to consider changing them also. Reason being, it all effects front end alignment. It is not a make or break situation, but it does help balance the repair and alignment work.
Any job worth doing is worth doing right in the first place.

Posted on Aug 05, 2008

  • 507 Answers

SOURCE: How to replace Inner Tie rod on 1994 Chrysler Town & Country?

222,000 miles? that's a good vechile so far! anyways, do some price checking. new rack and pinions come with the inner tie rods. so if it's like 50 more for the whole assembly, i would but if not, it's up to you. i've changed some rack and pinions on vechiles that were under 150000 due to major leaking. and if you put just new rods in, if it dose start leaking later, you'll get new inner rods again with new system you'll just be paying labor and alingment charges again. so again, my OPINION is if I'm going to keep it for a while and if it's COST effective, just to do the whole unit.

Posted on Mar 07, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: Need torque spec for 2000 Cirrus outer tie rod ends

45 Ft-lbs Tie-rod balljoint stud-to-steering knuckle nut, and 55 Ft-lbs Tie-rod (outer)- to- inner jam lock nut

Posted on Apr 21, 2009

  • 1 Answer

SOURCE: 2000 Chrysler Sebring Conv. replaced struts-front end squeaks on brake and turn

the reason why ur car squeaks is the ball joint i have a chrysler and same thing happened n my friend knows a lil bit bout cars had the same prob with hiss car and then the tire came of came to find out it was the ball joint causing the squeaks its not bearings or ur brakes car places told me same thing didnt fix it it is 100 percent ur ball joint and when u ask for the part ask for a lower control arm with a ball joint and install it by whoever

Posted on Nov 09, 2009

githinji
  • 72 Answers

SOURCE: my concorde has a wobble at low speeds and a

Hi,

You could either have a bad wheel, which could be a bent rim.

You could also have a bearing in one of the wheels that is gone causing the vibrations and wobble.

When the vehicle is raised, have the tires turned one by one and you will find the culprit (engage neutral gear and put a chock if you are doing it yourself. Safety first).

Hope that helps.

G

Posted on Mar 08, 2011

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2000 Chrysler Concorde LXi Both front wheels wobble horribly, clanking in the front when hitting pot holes and etc. Thinking axle, but hoping not.


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pretty decent job ahead first jack up car support with jack stands remove front wheels remove nuts on tie rod ends remove tie rod ends from spindles with tie rod end tool or tap with malet were they sit to loosen them hit the spindle area not the tie rod or tie rod threads then dissconnect power steering lines from steering rack also disconect steering linkage to rack there should be 2 main bolts holding assembly to frame remove them should free rack i know that car may have a unique design were u may have to remove inner tie rod ends first if it has those round bushings that always go bad disconect inner tie rod ends behind engine on top of steering rack then remove rack from wheel well replace those inner tie rod bushings u may be able to leave outer tie rod end connected to spindles and u may be able to get to the sterring rack from behind engine good luck

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1 Answer

1996 chrysler concorde, how to take off the inner tie rod?


I used this website: http://www.allpar.com/fix/intrepid-steering.html It worked perfectly. To add to it, I used a tie rod puller tool rented from Oreilly Auto Parts for only a few bucks, to press the old bushing out of the inner-tie-rod end. Worked very well. Easier than removing the entire tie rod, and hammering it out. However, removing the entire tie rod would make re-assembly easier. If I did it again, I would strongly consider removing the driver side tie rod from the car, then attaching the inner tie rod end 1st. Meaning, attach the passenger side inner tie rod 1st, then the driver side inner tie rod with new bushing, then re-attach the drivers side outer tie rod. That would probably be the easiest way on this 1996 dodge concorde, due to the fuel line that's in the way....

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1 Answer

Tie rod 1994 Chrysler concorde


You will need a tool for disconnecting the outer tie rod end (you can do it without the tool, but it does make it harder).
Other then that, it's pretty much straight nut & bolt work (undo, reattach). It's not really a weirdness job, it is pretty straight forward.
Before you take it apart, measure length, and have your wheels straight while up on the stands. When you reassemble, try to have the measurements close to what they were when you started. I would also suggest changing both sides at the same time (wear will factor in).
Once you are done with the job, you will need to take it in for an alignment.
Front end wear and alignment go hand and hand. The more "slop" in the front end because of wear will affect how accurate you can get the front alignment.

Tire wear also factors in. If your tires have over 30K miles, you might want to consider changing them also. Reason being, it all effects front end alignment. It is not a make or break situation, but it does help balance the repair and alignment work.
Any job worth doing is worth doing right in the first place.

Aug 05, 2008 | 1994 Chrysler Concorde

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