Car stalls when pulling away from stop sign or traffic light.
Operates normally when driving down street or highway. When I stop at a
stop sign or trafffic light, it continues to idle normally, but as soon
as I touch the gas to pull away, the car stalls.If I step on the brake
and touch teh gas to get the revs up, I can pull away, but don't want
to do this coninually because of the safety factor.
The problem is somewhat intermittment, but most noticeable after a long
stretch of driving say at 60 mph. The problem will then occur at the
first set of lights and several thereafter, but seems to settle down
after driving at cith speeds for a while.
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Re: car stalls when pulling away from stop sign or...
It definitely sounds like your TPS needs to be cleaned first and then go from there. It's possibly an EGR problem as well. When is the last time the car was tuned up? Once you clean the TPS you should notice an improvement. Let me know if you need further assistance after you try these "free" steps. Then you may have to consider replacing some parts from there. Please take a moment to accept and rate my solution accordingly. Thanks, lee
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Hello. Welcome to FixYa. Please allow me to assist you.
What you have is this: Disconnecting the battery caused your car's computer to lose its 'base idle' parameters. This info is kept in the computer, but, removing power to the computer allows the info to be erased, so to speak.
This is, unfortunatly, a normal condition, and, easily rectified.
What you need to do: Get in the car, start it up, and drive it; simulating stop/start city traffic, and then take it out on the highway, hit passing gear a few times, pull off, and let it idle 30 seconds and repeat highway speed, and passing gear a few more times, then simulate city traffic again. You might need to apply a slight bit of gas during the idle periods of the drive. If you do it right, you can reset the base idle parameter under10 minutes.
If you have any questions, please feel free to get back to me via reposting.
There are several things you can do. Make sure the engine is in good tune, replace the air filter, Air the tires up to 34 pounds air pressure to lessen the rolling resistance, How you drive is most important. Take off from traffic light and stop signs slowly. accelerate steady, don't be in a hurry to reach cruising speed, unless, of course, you are merging with fast traffic. Anticipate stops. Start slowing down sooner when coming to a stop sign or traffic signal. Coast on the downhill streets, and use the cruise control as much as possible. Don't waste gas warming up your vehicle in cold weather. It will warm up quickly while you are driving. Any time spent idling is zero miles per gallon.
Sounds like you have a small bit of dirt or grit in the fuel system when accelerating it is drawn with enough force to cut off the fuel supply then is released when engine at Idle. 1 run liquid fuel line/injector cleaner in 1 tank 2 check fuel lines for debris 3 change fuel filters 4 have fuel tank flushed here is trouble shooting order less expense to greater.
Per your description, I would suspect a fuel pump issue. When the fuel pump is running the pump impeller heats up. On an older pump the impeller can begin to seize up and momentarily stops and starts. Some times it just stops and has to cool down for a couple of minutes, then is ok for a while.
To test this theory, when the engine stalls and stops, your mechanic can use a rubber mallet and hit the bottom of the gas tank, this will free the pump impeller and the car will start again.
Or, have him install a fuel pressure gauge and go for a drive. If the pressure begins to fluctuate and drop, you know the pump is causing the issue.
Good luck, let me know.
You have one of two very common problems.
Number one may be a stuck open EGR valve
Number two would be a failing Idle Air Control valve (IAC).
Try this: Open the hood & locate the EGR valve, close to the firewall, behind the intake. Find & take with you a small hammer. The next time that it happens, open the hood & tap on the EGR valve. If it is sticking "open" the tapping may dislodge the carbon particles that are keeping it open.When the EGR valve is open, exhaust is getting into the intake at idle, and this will def stall out the car.
There is no repair to the IAC valve, it would need to be replaced if it is bad.
One of these two scenarios will cure your problem, I see it every day.
Car dies when coming off acceleration or at idle in traffic or at a stop. I can watch the Tach go to 0 RPM, some times it will restart immediately other times it is hard to start, so far I have always been able to re-start it and Drive on. Does anybody have verified fix for this issue, I have seen posts saying can and crank sensor, throttle body, EGR, and many more ideas... Do not really want to just start replacing parts with the hope that I eventually get a fix. Help...