My transmission light came on about a week ago and i've had it in three different shops, one being chrysler, and no one can figure out the problem... the first time it happened i was goin about 60 m/h and it bucked on me, and i've noticed if i'm under a quarter of a tank it bucks then dies, but if i have more gas then that it dies without the bucking.. just wandering before i changed it could it be the fuel fuel pump or have something to do with the flow of the fuel?....
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
An expert that got 5 achievements.
Re: bucking then dying
Check fuel pressure at fuel rail. If you have not changed the fuel filter in a long time do it (likely needs service anyhow) Before changing pump, check the in-tank pump filter. Trans light and bucking may be unrelated. Either trans is reacting to an engine problem or converter lock up has a problem. Jumping to conclusions may be unproductive. concentrate on shutting down, then go from there. I can't believe the number of dealers (who are supposed to have all the info) and still can't fix a damn thing! And we wonder why the big 3 are in financial trouble?????
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have a 1996 LHS, same 3.5L engine, loved the riding and smoothness when i bought it 2 years ago..... F@#$%ng money pit, a POS scam artist of a mechanic charged me 4200 for new front end suspension a year ago which is already shot again, after that i insisted on doing everything on this car myself. As i have no professional training nor do i have a stocked garage this goes without saying is a daunting task.I recommend buying or borrowing(local library) a Chilton and/or Haynes manual. The Chrysler Concorde is the same car different body style as my LHS, a Piece of something.. I'm in the midst of learning about the idling, as i have an opposite problem with too high rpms.
So far, i've concluded that some sensors only malfunction during certain conditions, i.e. cooling temperature sensor that activates fans, also can cause rich or lean fuel/air mixtures. It sounds to me like something is inducing a rich fuel mixture(high rpms) and your PCM (LHS' under air filter compartment) is overcompensating and has stored into its memory leading to a lean running car. I know it doesn't answer your question but hopefully it'll spark an idea. when i figure it out exactly i'll let you know. Jalael Sabri
Well, the misfire is engine related and would have nothing to do with the transmission planetaries. I hope you are receiving a detailed invoice from this shop.
The codes for engine misfire [s], are P0300= random misfires / P0301 to ***06 that tell which cylinder is having a misfire= 1 thru 6. This could be anything from a bad spark plug to and injection problem, and they should be able to identify and tell you what the problem is and the approximate cost to repair.------------- On the transmission repair, I would question that in fine detail = to repair the planitaries you would have to remove the transmission and diassemble it. If it was a solinode or a valve body repair etc., those could be performed with the transmission in the vehicle.
If you suspect you've been treated poorly, maybe you should find a different shop.
MIGHT need a new engine-to-transmission mount. or maybe the wrong fluid was put it. transmissions are very sensitive to what fluid it has. some transmission shops use generic brand fluid while a transmission needs specific fluid. find out if they used the proper fluid. if they didnt put the right one, get it flushed and put the right fluid in. get it checked by your mechanic to be sure.
The shift linkage is not adjusted properly and they may have forgotten to tighten the linkage after installing the transmission. Any mechanic could check this for you, or someone could possibly shift the transmission into gear at the transmission so that you could drive it back to the shop and let them fix it.
It is normal for the check engine light to come on anytime the engine stops running. If I were you and I took it to the shop I wouldn't say anything about what has been tried because it obviously isn't the problem. If you know someone that has a code reader or better yet someone that has an Autotap code reader have them check for error codes in the PCM.
If you have high millage on the van It could be a fuel problem such as a plugged fuel filter our even a fuel pump going bad. Can be checked with a pressure gauge hooked to the fuel rail.
On Freestars when the engine just dies they will set many different codes. Not all of them point to the problem, some of them set just because the engine died and was not turned off.
It is the circuit board behind the gauges.
The solder cracks around the pin causing an inconsistent connection.
Cheapest fix is to go to salvage yard and get a complete new circuit board.
I found three soldered connections bad on mine and fixed it myself but for the average Joe it would be just as easy to get another circuit board.