1993 Chrysler lebaron converible rear window drivers side
The window will not operate. The motor sounds like it is running, but when I took the panel off it appears that a cable with a button at the end has come off. It appears the cable operats the window but I can not see where it should be connected. Do you have a diagram of how this cable is connected?
Re: 1993 Chrysler lebaron converible rear window drivers...
Just bought a '95 with the same setup, and same problems on both rear windows.
There are 2 cables on each window, one for lifting the window, and one for lowering it.
The cable that broke is more than likely the lift cable.
I had to replace all but one of the 4 cables on mine. Once one comes undone, they tend to wind around each other, and everything else, and become knotted and frayed.
From your description, the cable didn't break. It was the plastic side peice of the cable retainer on the track. This is a deliberate design flaw on these.
Don't go to a dealer for a new cable or retainer.
The correct fix is to go to a hardware store like Lowes or Home Depot, and get a length of 1/16 wire rope and matching ferruls. Loop the wire rope completely around the retainer on the track and attach it back to it's self. It will never break again.
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The switch could be defective. All window power comes from circuit breaker 2 in the fuse block so obviously the other windows work OK. You can bypass the switch and apply power directly to the window motor to check operation.
Hi Delaina, I'm glad to help! Freeze plugs are located in the engine block in various places. Along both sides of the block, some behind the starter, some behind the motor mounts. There are also freeze plugs in the front of the engine block and some engine also have them in the cylinder heads. There are also freeze plugs at the rear of the engine block behind the transmission. Hope this helps and have an awesome day Delaina!
Remove all screws first. The door pull and/or armrest will have large screws to remove. Check under the door handle for a small screw on the trim piece. Check for any other screws. Now the bottom and sides of panel will have plastic pins about every 8 inches along. Slip a putty knife or slim blade under the door panel to pop out the plastic pins. They are easily broken, be careful, but replacement pins can be had at a parts store. When all loose pull panel out at the bottom, lift up to clear the window channel, unplug all electrical connectors, and anything else holding the panel. Set the panel aside, and peel back the protective water shield (plastic liner-there to keep mold and moisture from inner side of panel and electricals- can be re-glued back into place when done). Now the window motor can be accessed. Good luck.
If you can get access to the motor try tapping on it while pushing the switch it will usually start working again temporarily, but as far as replacing the regulator assy. Trust me on this you're going to want to take it in and have it done, I've done a few at our shop andit is a huge pain in the rear...lots to re adjust once it's back together due to convertible..I personally hate doing them.. And I'm pretty sure you can only get the motor with the whole regulator assy..
if ur buying new, you can only buy the whole assembly....motor and relay...you may be able to pick up a motor at a salvage yard, but they are hard to find...as far as getting to the window motor....remove the seat....remove the panel on the side....remove 2 top bolts and 1 lower bolt...you will have to remove the insulation tape to get to the lower bolt....then you can pull it strait out, disconnecting the wires connected to the bottom of the motor.