Wots it mean when check engine light comes on

gas engine? sure.
no crank security system.
my guess is you mean the car has and Immobilizer option on car?
most cut fuel.
all have a light, if the lamp is not there, you dont have it.
key on, the cluster lamps tell you if it has IMMOBLIZER ACTIVE.
meaning .
so if the lamp is not there, or is not flashing or glowing cranking
then that is not the ISSUE !
sure we look first...
then we.......
1: check for spark. got spark to all cylinders
yes, if not scan the pCM cranking, it will tell you what spark is gone, 90%
2: yes spark is good, now i check spark timing with 20 buck light.
its way off, the cam belt slipped, FACT.
yes timing is ok.
3: all engine , not blown up overheated , all perfect for 3seconds on test fuel (you do that with spray) does it? if not sounds bad, it is.
if it goes, verrrooooomm stall, its GOOD>
repeat over and over, until happy, see engine and spark is good.
4: ok test fuel tests PASS muster.....
so that leaves what, fueling.
a: too much is called flooding, use WOT cranking to clear floods.
wot means wide open throttle or as ,truckers call it pedal to dah metal..
this cuts all fueling to clear flooding on all EFI engines.

b: no fueling, the spark tips are dry.?
check pump pressure after scanning PCM.

the ECU cuts fuel for 3 reasons. (pure logic)
a: Tps stuck WOT.
b: lost spark (ignitor or tacho dead)
c: lost CMP or CkP sensors (cam, or crank)
the ECU reports a and b, and not c. as c is a FEATURE not an error.

try a fuel addative to clean through the fuel lines , injectors and get one that covers the catalytic convertor , also get the OBD codes read as the CEL doesnt alsays come on

which engine? 8valve TBI or 16v MPI?
apples and oranges diffr.
no power when.?
car wont move?
car hesitates?
or bog on hills?
or? only at tip-in throttle , if I wait, bit , power comes on strong.

does W.O.T work up hill, flogging the dog>?
yes/no? this is key to cause,

wot means wide open throttle or pedal to dah metal.
this page cover bog, there is misfire page too,

http://www.fixkick.com/power-index.html

what engine, 2L I-4 or 2.5L V6? post engine, for best answers
or Post VIN, or open hood (USA) look up see EPA vacuum sticker. that tells you the engine type.
ever do the 60,000 mile tune ups, 120k, 180k,etc?
1: after the tune up.
Ill assume it cranks robustly but does not start hot.
2: does using the op guide recommended WOT method start car
when dead? ( press right foot to floor, crank , bingo it starts)
If true that means it was flooded. post back if true.
3: if it dont start WOT (wide open throttle)
that means, its lost spark or lost fueling.
so check for spark using a new , gapped proper test spark plug.
got spark? no , post bad, Ive no spark hot.
4: gots spark but will not start. so use test fuel.
starts now>
A: for only 3 seconds, it runs but then stops. each attempt.
yes, then you have fuel pump issues, (no didnt say bad pump!!!)
no, engine issues. hot motor , has lost compression?
yes> post compression on all cylinders warm to hot. WOT.
or watch scotty do it. (oldest story on cars, ever, no start , 100 years)

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=064Ilsz8Fzg&NR=1&feature=fvwp

WHAT YEAR? CAR.
the engine tachometer reads what.
that whole post is a contradiction.
ahh, you mean the engine does not accelerate, or the engine bogs.
600 RPM is why below, 800 normal (most cars)
the engine stalls, well sure it will as low idle speed will surely do.
so the real post is my engine stalls.
and if i try WOT ,it will go above 600 rpm in or out of gear?
wot means wide open throttle.
can the engine race to 3000RPM in PARK (or neutral)
if engine power is ok, full WOT power up a hill and is only and idle problem say some. and we work bad idle.

the top reason for stalls (besides #1 never ever doing the 60k mile service,repeats at every 60k)_
is a stuck open EGR (part of same service to do that but Ill add that)
or stuck closed ISC (electric IAC)

Rear defroster

There are many emission sensors in the car that will make the engine light come ON. Not to mention the big list of trouble codes for the engine light. The engine light code will give you a big clue of what's causing the accelerator pedal problem.


Best way to find out what's going on engine light is to have an auto-parts store hook up a engine code reader and tell you what the code means and the problem. Most auto-part store will do this for free.

When this light comes on, it'll either have to do with the coolant or the transmission. You said that your car picks up speed very slowly and will shut off on you as well. When this light comes on, it also means you're only running on two of your four cylinders. Your car is cycling this way in order to prevent further damage to your engine / transmission.

Check your coolant system for low coolant, or a potential leak. Transmission will be trickier to tackle.

Have you actually taken it to a Ford dealership as I think this light is only for their system to pick up, or just to local garages like Walmart and Autozone.

coolant level warning light

find the operators manual for your car will help you a lot.