The E-350's front Rotors have been replaced as well as the pads. Calipers are the same. I checked all the fuses to see if the ABS fuse was blown. No luck with that either as fuses where all good. What else could be causing this. Tie Rods look good. The symptoms feel the same as a warped Rotor but I replaced the rotors with brand new ones. Can the Rotor's actually come Warped as well? Do they need to be put on the Lathe just to make sure? I don't have a lathe.......What can be causing this. Signed - Perplexed in NJ
Welcome to the world of Ford Truck!!! The rear rotors come off the same way that the front rotors come off, only they get REALLY stuck to the rear hub assembly. Once you have removed the caliper and caliper mounting frame, take a BIG hammer and BEAT the rotors loose.
They make a "drum and rotor puller" for this job, but it is pretty expensive - especially if you are only going to do one set of brakes...even most professionals that do these all the time cannot justify the cost of the tool. The rotors for your truck are not that expensive, and they usually get destroyed trying to get them off anyway...so we always replace them at our shop.
dttech, Thanks for commenting on my rear rotor replacement above. I don't think these rear rotors come off the same way as the front as the front has a nut that you take off, then the wheel bearings and the whole things slides off. The rear doesn't have that set up. There is a large center with indentations but doesn't look like there is anyway to get them off. I'll look at it more today. I don't thing there is anyway to post pictures here but I would if I could and then maybe that would give you a better idea what I'm looking at! Thanks again for your help as I suspect now that the rear rotors are the cause as they don't look very good at this point. Somewhat perplexed in NJ.
Got them off as you described. They aren't the same as the front as you need to remove the bolt but once I beat this baby with a BFH it was good to go! Thanks for the help. I ordered the new Rotors and will put them on when I get them. Hopefully that will be what the problem was all along! Thanks again.
Sorry if I caused any confusion. The rear brakes are the same for Ford E-series and F-series as long as they are equipped with rear disc and not rear drum. However, only the F-series 4X4 trucks have rotors that slide off the hub. All 2-wheel drive models come off with the wheel bearings after removing the spindle nut on the front...Sorry for the confusion....I was thinking 4X4 for some dumb reason...never even heard of a 4X4 E-series...don't know where I got hat one from???
Glad you got it though!
P.S. I usually put a coating of antisieze compound on the inside diameter of the new rotors (where they contact the hub) before I put them on. We have a couple different fleets that come in our shop all the time. Putting the antisieze on the rotors makes them a whole lot easier to get off the next time. We still have tap them a little, but they come off 10 times easier. Swinging that BFH trying to get the original rotors off can flat wear you out!
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I would look at the front wheel bearings ford has this problem . I don't have as big of a truck as an E 350 but i always replace mine when i do the brakes and they always loosen in i few months and i retighten them and there fine untill the next time i do the brakes . You could also look at the rear shocks if there gone the front will also shake or it will seam the front end it the problem but they realy have more to do with front shimey then the front shocks
SOURCE: Rotors keep warping. Parking brake=caliper sticking?
well first of all just because they can be turned dosent always mean that you should do it, now a days rotors are alot cheaper to just replace them, however whatch where you buy them. in most cases you get what you paid for, Like cheap rotor prices=less life, same for the pads and how hard the driver uses the pedal. and as for the "classic rotor warp" thats not always the case with these newer cars having more movable joints than ever befor, it could be, bad hub bearing,bad lower ball joint...etc....good luck
SOURCE: When i brake at 50mph the vihicle shakes real bad
There are some driving tests you could try. If there is an ABS problem it is not common for the system to be effected by rotor temperatures, so if the shake comes & gets worse the more you brake than it is a rotor. 99% of the time a brake shake is a wharped rotor. Also, most of the time the brake pedal will get noticeably harder if the ABS is kicking in.
Try that
SOURCE: Vibration in brake pedal
The rear shoes and drum are not in even contact when braking, thus resulting into entire vehicle vibration. The most likely cause of misalignment is a warped rear drums. However, it is possible that the drums are ok, but rather the rear wheel bearings are worn or loose, this would likely cause misalignment between shoes and drums
Kenneth Triest
SOURCE: I've had the rotors and
I have brake fluid leaking from my front left tire area when I changed the pads I loosen the wrong bolts to remove the pads I retighten them but they started to leak fluid 3 months later can I get a rebuild kit to fix the problem
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Thanks for the help so far. I didn't do anything to the rear brakes or pads. Took them apart today and the rotors look pretty worn and the pads are about 1/2 down. While I have very thing off I notice another problem. How do I get the stupid Rear Rotors off! There aren't any nuts or bolts or anything that I can get to to take the rear Rotor off. Any ideas?
OK more information here. I took both rear tires off today to check the rear end. Looks like there was about 1/2 of each pad left on each side. The Rotors are so, so. I would like to change them however I don't see a way to get them off. Still perplexed in NJ!
douglas_s575 you have to apply and release the E break while pulling on the rotors.
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