Question about 1991 Volvo 240

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I have a Volvo 1991 240.The car would start and run normally,after shutting it off it would hard start or not start at all,another time it would start again.I have changed the coil,module and tune up nothing seem to solve the problem.

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  • garvinmfl Jan 06, 2009

    hi the fuse #6 did solve my problem,thanks a lot.


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Had the exact same problem with my 240 wagon. There is a temperature sensor up near the manifold on the drivers side of the engine. This is not the temp sensor that feeds the dash gauge, but one that tells the engine control module whether you are starting hot or cold. Mine was cracked, so the engine computer would get a cold start signal even after the engine ran warm, and would flood. This can be a difficult problem to diagnose and an expensive one when mechanics start swapping parts. You cannot see this sensor, but you can feel it (when the block is cold, please) right under the exhaust manifiold. A replacement is about $80 plus labor. Even my very experienced Volvo mechanic overlooked it. But the car would start and run fine, then leave me stuck when I tried to restart it. After calling AAA for a tow, the temp sensor would reset, then the car would start normally. Cheers. The 240 is a great car - I ran mine up to 235,000 miles; now I have a 740 with the same engine.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • Arthur Aldrich
    Arthur Aldrich Nov 29, 2008

    Another lead: Check the ignition pickup assembly that feeds pulses to the coil. Sometimes these good bad intermittently and can masquerade as other problems. 


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I had a similar problem with my 91 Volvo 240-intermittent starting.. I replaced the coil, distributor cap, rotor, and spark plug wires. I had a mechanic friend determine fuel was getting to the injectors, but the injectors weren't pulsing. The newly replaced coil was emitting a weak spark. Inspection of my fuses revealed none blown. It seemed to point either to a fuel injection relay under the dash on the right hand side or the ECU. Another mechanic replaced my injector relay for $300 dollars! About two days later, I was stranded once again!
I revisited my fuses-only this time I took each one out to check for pitting, corrosion. Fuse #6, which powers my injector relay, was pitted, along with its holder. I burnished the fuse contacts, replaced the fuse, and it's been fine ever since!

Posted on Dec 20, 2008

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