Question about 1990 Ford F150

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90' f150 4.9l running rough

I have black/clear fluid pouring out the tail accompanied by white smoke until the engine is warmed up. Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor and no change. There is a 1" vacuum hose on top o' the passenger side wheel well that goes to nothing and leads out from a large (about 8" long X 4" diameter) canister. Nothing seems to change when i plug it. idle bounces between 500 and 1000 rpm constantly. Is this the timing or egr valve or what? Can someone please help? I know next to nothing but want to learn.

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  • eric_desmond Nov 29, 2008

    Thanks Ill look into it Asap. That might explain the brand new radiator the truck came with. However the fluid has a VERY strong gas smell. How can I verify a cracked head?

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You could do a compression test witch would require you to pull the spark plugs or you chould pull the head.

Posted on Dec 04, 2008

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Mrp-2204 has it! The cracked head is my quess. A gasket prob usually is more after the fact. This engine has been overheated a few times. No doubt. Frankster016

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

  • frankster016 Nov 29, 2008

    To find a cracked head is[in your case] to do a cylinder leak test with the engine cold. But the alternative is to remove the sparkplugs and check for one that is too clean. The coolant will remove all the deposits. If you find 2 together, then a head gasket is likely. But just having the gasket replace may just be a 'band-aid'! The head could be slightly distorted. OK Frankster016

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You have either a cracked head or a blown head gasket letting water seapdown into the cylinder, when it is cold it does it worse becaues the metal is cold , when it warms up the metal expands and seals it off some what and it is not so noticeable.

Posted on Nov 29, 2008

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I have a 1997 bmw 740i. Check engine light came on (matco tool read multiple misfire code on #1, 2, 3 & 6 cylinder). Exhaust has white/blue smoke pouring out.


Multiple misfires usually are caused by a bad crank sensor, some times it can be a bad cam sensor but that usually does not go bad.

Jun 26, 2011 | 1997 BMW 7 Series

Tip

How to inspect a used car like a PROFESSIONAL in under 30 minutes


Copyright © by MUSTGO 2010

If you are in the market for a used car then this is a great 30 minutes inspection guide on how to inspect a car,truck,SUV or van from bumper to bumper.

I will append more tips and time saving inspection HOW TO's on this page so PLEASE bookmark my articles.

Do not forget to give me a positive rating if this guide is helpful to you.

============================================

1)Make the test drive appointment with the seller in the EARLY MORNING hour. Inspect the car when it is COMPLETELY cold.

Cold engine will ran rough during the closed loop cycle (warm up phase). This is the best time to inspect for worn motor and transmission mounts.

============================================

2) RECORD color of all fluid on the vehicle.

DO NOT ASSUME

motor oil is clear to black
transmission fluid is lite pink to dark red
coolant is green or orange for GM Dexcool

Dip a small sample of the fluids on a WHITE printer paper and compare it to any drip on the ground after 15 minutes of warm up time.

============================================

3)Look for oil leak(s) under the car after 15+ minutes of warm up time.

Front seal is inches below the harmonic balancer (center of the pulley system on the crank)

Rear main seal is no visible from the outside (It is where the engine meet the transmission casing)

Front seal and rear seal leak(s) can set you back hundreds on labor.
Some seller will tell you the rubber seal only cost $12 or less (which is true) but the labor is at $90+ per hour.

A top notch professional auto repair shop can complete the job on a rear wheel drive vehicle in under 1 1/2 hours (front and rear seals).

Front wheel drive vehicle is a 2+ hours job.

Once again DO NOT ASSUME

Lite brown to black fluid is motor oil

Pink to dark red is transmission fluid

Compare the fluid on the white printer paper so you will have a good idea on which fluid is leaking.

A manual transmission clutch system can be destroy by only few ounce of motor oil seepage from the rear main seal.

An average clutch job is over $260!!!!

============================================

4)Inspect the color of the exhaust smoke at initial startup.

Few minutes of lite blue or black smoke is OK for high mileage vehicle.
(75,000+ miles)

BLUE smoke is a sign of worn oil seal on the engine head. It SHOULD be clear out after 2-5 minutes of warm up time.

BLACK smoke is a sign of engine is running rich.
You should monitor the smoke level. It should reduce to an acceptable level after warm up 5-10 minutes.

lite WHITE smoke is OK until 10 minutes of warm up time.
If there is WHITE smoke after 15 minutes of warm up time then you should do a coolant compression test to make sure the head gasket able to blown.

=========================================

5)Look for miss-match tires

This is a sign for low budget owner or car flipper.

======================================

6)After 15+ minutes of warm up time then take the vehicle for local and highway ran.

Test the car on a hilly road to listen for dieseling (ping) sound from the engine.

WORN engine will produce louder dieseling sound.

A totally worn engine will also vibrate a lot more.
You have to factor is worn motor and transmission mount.

Have your friend drive a second vehicle right behind you to look for color of the smoke during the test drive during the test drive.

=========================================

7)On 1996+ vehicle,look for Check Engine or Service Engine Soon light.

MAKE SURE this lamp does light for few second during initial startup.

If there is code stored in the computer then you will need an OBDII code reader to pull the codes.

=========================================

8)READ the state emission report carefully!

HC
CO
CO2
O2
NOx

Look for the upper limit parameters and compare to the RECORDED TEST RESULTS.

======================================

9)Check for pull on suspension noise during test drive,

Do the re-bound shock test on all four shocks.

======================================

10) Inspect for damaged or replaced radiator support or hood.

Heavy frontal collision can cause frame damage.

Uni-body vehicle may not show frame damage with visual inspection.

Avoid car that has combination of frontal AND roof damage.

======================================

Check Kelly Blue Book for private seller value and Carfax before making the offer.

======================================

Good luck on your vehicle search and please email me if you have any question or comment on how to improve this inspection article.

Copyright © by MUSTGO 2010

on Apr 17, 2010 | Honda Civic Cars & Trucks

1 Answer

I have a toyota hilux 2.7 3rzfe engine.On start up it stumbles runs rough untill i hold revs up for a while. Have changed s/plugs,fuel filter.air filter, cleaned throttle body.Any ideas on fixing this...


This was the first symptom that the head gasket was going on my hilux 2.7 3rzfe. Soon afterward I started getting the tell tale white smoke in the exhaust until the engine had warmed up and a noticable coolant loss... That can cause rough running until the 'leaky' cylinder has warmed up and dried out...

Nov 01, 2010 | 1998 Toyota 4Runner

1 Answer

2009 Kia Sorento. When starting smoke pours out the exhaust


Should still be under warranty at that age - ask the garage to try known good injectors from a donor car

Mar 04, 2010 | 2005 Kia Sorento

2 Answers

86 Ranger 4X4 2.9 fuel inj runs rough when warmed up


1988 ranger 2.9 runs great cold then after a few minutes when warmed up hesitates with intermittent black smoke from the tail pipe until i hit the the throttle then clears and will repeat this behavior...

Jan 26, 2010 | 1986 Ford Ranger 2WD

2 Answers

98 explorer sputtering and white smoke from tail


Hi Dre,

I hope you don't shoot the messenger, It sound like a blown head gasket.

The white smoke is water in with the combustion.
The rough running is either no compression or coolant in with the fuel/air mix.

Things to check to confirm.
  • When cool, take off radiator cap. is fluid low? Get everyt one clear and start the engine. Does coolant erupt out of the radiator?
  • Run a compression check on all cylinders
  • While the plugs are out, inspect cylinders (flashlight) for water.
  • Check oil for a milky color
The little bit of good news is it still runs. So secondary damage hasn't occurred yet. You need to get this addressed quickly.

I'm sorry to be the bearer of this type of news.
Mike
\

Dec 09, 2009 | 1999 Ford Explorer

1 Answer

Rough idle(200-300RPM)off idle runs great no white smoke


Have you changed your fast idle valve or air idel control valve I would change the air idle valve because it is the one with an electric sensor.

May 22, 2009 | 1990 Honda Prelude

2 Answers

My truck blows white smoke


Hello!
There are two differnt reasons for black and white smoke coming from the tail pipe.
Black smoke means fuel runs rich (car getting to much gas). Check fuel pressure/air filter.
In some cases the white smoke means car is burning oil or transmittion fluid. Have tem checked/replaced.
If you can feel a smelly smoke it can be catalytic converter.
In a worsest scenario if car blowing white smoke it can be engine coolant is getting into an engine cylinder from a bad head gasket ,or a warped/cracked head. So you need to keep your eye on coolant level and check your engine for overheat. Also might be good to check your oil for traces of coolant (on a dipstick it would be a milky substance mixture of oil and coolant).
Good Luck

Dec 06, 2008 | 2006 Ford F-250 Super Duty

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