I have black/clear fluid pouring out the tail accompanied by white smoke until the engine is warmed up. Replaced plugs, wires, cap and rotor and no change. There is a 1" vacuum hose on top o' the passenger side wheel well that goes to nothing and leads out from a large (about 8" long X 4" diameter) canister. Nothing seems to change when i plug it. idle bounces between 500 and 1000 rpm constantly. Is this the timing or egr valve or what? Can someone please help? I know next to nothing but want to learn.
You have either a cracked head or a blown head gasket letting water seapdown into the cylinder, when it is cold it does it worse becaues the metal is cold , when it warms up the metal expands and seals it off some what and it is not so noticeable.
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If you are in the market for a used car then this is a great 30 minutes inspection guide on how to inspect a car,truck,SUV or van from bumper to bumper.
I will append more tips and time saving inspection HOW TO's on this page so PLEASE bookmark my articles.
Do not forget to give me a positive rating if this guide is helpful to you.
1)Make the test drive appointment with the seller in the EARLY MORNING hour. Inspect the car when it is COMPLETELY cold.
Cold engine will ran rough during the closed loop cycle (warm up phase). This is the best time to inspect for worn motor and transmission mounts.
2) RECORD color of all fluid on the vehicle.
DO NOT ASSUME
motor oil is clear to black transmission fluid is lite pink to dark red coolant is green or orange for GM Dexcool
Dip a small sample of the fluids on a WHITE printer paper and compare it to any drip on the ground after 15 minutes of warm up time.
3)Look for oil leak(s) under the car after 15+ minutes of warm up time.
Front seal is inches below the harmonic balancer (center of the pulley system on the crank)
Rear main seal is no visible from the outside (It is where the engine meet the transmission casing)
Front seal and rear seal leak(s) can set you back hundreds on labor. Some seller will tell you the rubber seal only cost $12 or less (which is true) but the labor is at $90+ per hour.
A top notch professional auto repair shop can complete the job on a rear wheel drive vehicle in under 1 1/2 hours (front and rear seals).
Front wheel drive vehicle is a 2+ hours job.
Once again DO NOT ASSUME
Lite brown to black fluid is motor oil
Pink to dark red is transmission fluid
Compare the fluid on the white printer paper so you will have a good idea on which fluid is leaking.
A manual transmission clutch system can be destroy by only few ounce of motor oil seepage from the rear main seal.
An average clutch job is over $260!!!!
4)Inspect the color of the exhaust smoke at initial startup.
Few minutes of lite blue or black smoke is OK for high mileage vehicle. (75,000+ miles)
BLUE smoke is a sign of worn oil seal on the engine head. It SHOULD be clear out after 2-5 minutes of warm up time.
BLACK smoke is a sign of engine is running rich. You should monitor the smoke level. It should reduce to an acceptable level after warm up 5-10 minutes.
lite WHITE smoke is OK until 10 minutes of warm up time. If there is WHITE smoke after 15 minutes of warm up time then you should do a coolant compression test to make sure the head gasket able to blown.
5)Look for miss-match tires
This is a sign for low budget owner or car flipper.
6)After 15+ minutes of warm up time then take the vehicle for local and highway ran.
Test the car on a hilly road to listen for dieseling (ping) sound from the engine.
WORN engine will produce louder dieseling sound.
A totally worn engine will also vibrate a lot more. You have to factor is worn motor and transmission mount.
Have your friend drive a second vehicle right behind you to look for color of the smoke during the test drive during the test drive.
7)On 1996+ vehicle,look for Check Engine or Service Engine Soon light.
MAKE SURE this lamp does light for few second during initial startup.
If there is code stored in the computer then you will need an OBDII code reader to pull the codes.
8)READ the state emission report carefully!
HC CO CO2 O2 NOx
Look for the upper limit parameters and compare to the RECORDED TEST RESULTS.
9)Check for pull on suspension noise during test drive,
Do the re-bound shock test on all four shocks.
10) Inspect for damaged or replaced radiator support or hood.
Heavy frontal collision can cause frame damage.
Uni-body vehicle may not show frame damage with visual inspection.
Avoid car that has combination of frontal AND roof damage.
Check Kelly Blue Book for private seller value and Carfax before making the offer.
Good luck on your vehicle search and please email me if you have any question or comment on how to improve this inspection article.
This was the first symptom that the head gasket was going on my hilux 2.7 3rzfe. Soon afterward I started getting the tell tale white smoke in the exhaust until the engine had warmed up and a noticable coolant loss... That can cause rough running until the 'leaky' cylinder has warmed up and dried out...
1988 ranger 2.9 runs great cold then after a few minutes when warmed up hesitates with intermittent black smoke from the tail pipe until i hit the the throttle then clears and will repeat this behavior...
There are two differnt reasons for black and white smoke coming from the tail pipe.
Black smoke means fuel runs rich (car getting to much gas). Check fuel pressure/air filter.
In some cases the white smoke means car is burning oil or transmittion fluid. Have tem checked/replaced.
If you can feel a smelly smoke it can be catalytic converter.
In a worsest scenario if car blowing white smoke it can be engine coolant is getting into an engine cylinder from a bad head gasket ,or a warped/cracked head. So you need to keep your eye on coolant level and check your engine for overheat. Also might be good to check your oil for traces of coolant (on a dipstick it would be a milky substance mixture of oil and coolant).