I replaced the radiater, belts, hoses, plugs, and now my engine sounds louder while driving, and is quieter when i am stopped. when i changed the timing belt it slipped off, and on very easy, and nothing moved. could the timing be off? my wife is embarassed to drive her car. please help. 2001 eclipse spider.
Re: engine sounds very loud on 2001 eclipse spider
It sure sounds like you need a timing light and a tension bar to tighten the timing belt you can't run it around for too long with it loose could cause damage to such a compact engine. Try loosening the nut/pulley that is attached to the loop shaped eyelette, hard to explain (it's made for the bolt to slide in) loosen just enough to put some tension against the belt and then tighten while still pressing against the tool of leverage careful not to damage what you are prying against. This will most likely help but you will most definately need to re time as the belt is no longer in the correct position.
a 6ya expert can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repairmen in the US.
the service is completely free and covers almost anything you can think of (from cars to computers, handyman, and even drones).
click here to download the app (for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Common Car Noises and Their Likely Causes
Clicking noise while turning
Starts faint, gradually becomes more noticeable until very loud
Failed outer CV joint (constant velocity joint) due to torn boot (most likely) or old age
Replace either the whole axle assembly (recommended) or the outer CV joint
Water pump noises
Difficult to diagnose because of water pump's location
Noise usually caused by damage to the bearings in failed water pump
Only cure is replacing it. If possible do it at the same time as a timing belt replacement to cut down on labor costs
Squeak or squeal from an engine belt
Loud, high-pitched squeak or squeal
Belts either need adjustment or replacing
If belts only squeak when damp, they probably just need adjustment. If they squeak constantly, they probably need to be replaced
Exhaust heat shield noises
Rattle that you hear when car is idling
Damaged heat shield
Replace heat shield
NOTE: When removing water pump assembly, be careful not to get coolant on timing belt unless you intend to replace it. (if it has more than 60.000 miles. it probably SHOULD be replaced, however, you must do it correctly or severe engine damage will occur.) Drain coolant from drain plugs on both sides of cylinder block and radiator. Remove radiator hoses (upper and lower) and fan shroud. Remove drive belts. Remove water pump pulley. Remove crankshaft pulley and front (upper and lower) belt cover. Remove water pump
Try slipping the drive belt (fan belt, alternator belt, or whatever you want to call it) off the engine, then run the engine momentarily without the belt. If the noise disappears, at least you now know it is not an internal engine problem, and it will be an issue with one of the pulleys, or belt-driven accessories.
I usually recommend a cooling system overhaul to my customers. It can go a long way in preventing damage from cooling system failure. I replace the water pump and ALL cooling system hoses including heater hoses, bypass hoses and radiator hoses. Then I flush out the radiator and the heater core with all the hoses removed. I go to the dealer and ask them to get me every colling hose that goes on the car. They are a lot more expensive at the dealer, but my 36 years of experience has taught me that the aftermarket hoses don't fit correctly and many have to be modified to get them to fit and they don't last as long as original equipment. It can be a little expensive, but it is a LOT cheaper that having to replace an engine or buy a new car.
When changing a timing belt, you should also replace the "timing components" which include idler and tensioner pullies. These pullies have as many miles on them as the belt and will not last as long as the new belt if you don't replace them. Failure of these pullies will cause the new timing belt to come off and cause serious engine damage. (ALL Mitsubishi engines are interference engines, meaning that severe engine damage will result from a failed timing belt.)
A transmission fluid and filter change is probably also appropriate at this time - especially if it has not been done in the last 30,000 miles or so.