Re: timmingbelt on a 95 honda accord wagon with 16valve
I had to put enough extensions on my socket to get the breaker bar outside the fender. Place a 2 x 4 on its end right under the breaker bar and the end of the extensions, place a very large cheater pipe on the breaker bar and grunt like a big dog. I thought mine would never break free. Also, I had my son hold a pry bar in the flywheel to keep it from spinning. I broke several screwdrivers trying this, but the prybar did it fine.
An expert who has achieved level 3 by getting 1000 points
An expert who has finished #1 on the weekly Top 10 Fixya Experts Leaderboard.
An expert that got 20 achievements.
An expert that got 10 achievements.
Re: timmingbelt on a 95 honda accord wagon with 16valve
It loosens counter clockwise (normal thread), but it takes about 450lbs to loosen, then use the proper puller to pull that pulley or risk ruining the crankshaft. 1 note 450 LBS is a hi qyuality (like snap-on or mac tools) half inch ratchet with a large cheater pipe on it
life begins when the kids leave home and the dog dies
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
I have found a answers that maybe can help you. There is at least one pulley the the belt runs around that is not part of any device. Put your ratchet on the center nut for that pulley in the on position. When you put pressure on the ratchet the whole pulley should move like it's on a spring. if it doesn't try the other pulley. there should be a diagram under the hood showing where the belt goes. put the belt over all the pulleys but one. put pressure on the ratchet until the pulley moves enough to slip the belt over the last pulley. you're done! ______________ obd2 airbag reset tool
When you look at the serpentine belt, somewhere near the top you will see it run over a smooth pulley. You will also notice that pulley is running on the back side of the belt. Most cars will have an arm that holds that pulley and is connected to a round housing approximately the same diameter as the pulley. That is the TENSIONER pulley and in the round housing is a very strong coil spring. In the center of the pulley there should be a hex nut. Put a socket the size of the nut on a long breaker bar and put it on the pulley nut. You should be able to move the pulley away from the belt by "turning" the nut. You may need to use a piece of pipe or other method to lengthen the breaker bar in order to turn it. As I said, it is a very strong spring. While holding the pulley away from the belt you can slip the belt off the nearest and smallest pulley. Then carefully and slowly release the breaker and allow the pulley to return to its released position. THIS CAN BE A DANGEROUS OPERATION THAT LOOKS SIMPLE. IT IS SIMPLE BUT BE AWARE THAT YOU MUST BE SURE YOU HAVE THE TENSIONER PULLEY UNDER CONTROL WITH THE BREAKER BAR AND THAT YOU CAN HOLD IT WHILE REMOVING THE BELT FROM THE PULLEY. IF IT SLIPS FROM YOUR BREAKER OR YOU CAN'T HOLD IT YOU COULD BE SEVERELY INJURED. TRY MOVING AND SLOWLY RELEASING THE PULLEY BEFORE YOU ATTEMPT TO REMOVE THE BELT. GET HELP OR TAKE IT TO A QUALIFIED MECHANIC IF YOU ARE UNSURE!! Also, be sure you note the track of the belt before you remove it, so you can reinstall it. Make a diagram if necessary. When you reinstall it, be sure the belt is properly aligned on all the pulleys before starting the engine. If the drive side of the belt has cracks in the surface or in the drive "V"s, replace it. If that belts breaks while you are driving, you will loose all of your power controls, including steering and breaks. Some cars cannot be steered al all without this belt in place. Be careful and good luck!
You should be able to move your belt tensioner by putting a wrench in the pulley bolt and levering the pulley toward the front bumper. You may have to place a piece of pipe over the wrench to get more leverage. If the tensioner will not move easily (like it is stuck in place). Replace the tensioner with one that is not frozen. I purchased a good used tensioner at a salvage yard for $10. All my belt squealing went away. Route the belt around the pulleys leaving the belt between the tension pulley and the engine. A shoe string or piece of wire around the belt will allow you to pull the belt up on to the tensioner pulley while you pull on the wrench holding the tensioner down with your other hand. If you have to change the automatic belt tensioner. The
automatic tensioner is held on by a nut. You have to jack up the car
crawl underneath and reach up between the alternator mount and the rear
exhaust manifold . The access to the nut is finger tip small. You will
need a 14mm 6 point socket , a short extension, a long extension, a
short breaker bar,a socket wrench, and a pivot joint for the extensions.
Getting the nut onto the new tensioner is the hard part. Finger tight
the nut and double check that the tensioner is positioned correctly in
the mounting slot. Then tighten down the nut and put the belt back on.
hi this sounds like the actual bearings have gone in the pulley, hence the belt coming off, you will have to replace that pulley or what ever it is that the pulley is attached to ie power steering pump, water pump, etc, to put the belt back on after the repair has been done, you will need to loosen off one of the tensionerpulleys to put it back on...hope this helps
line up exterior mark on crankshaft pulley & observe for compression at TDC. remove drive belt/s and any accessory in way, remove 2 10mm nuts retaining cover at top (may have special bolt/stud begin to turn also, clamp if you can), remove crank pulley, remove lower bolts, support engine with jack remove upper engine mount remove timing cover, replace belt check alignment marks rotate 2 revolutions to TDC again & recheck marks, recheck bet tension, tighten adjuster nutsand reassemble
yes you must jack the vehicle up put it on jack stands for safety, and around the power steeirng pump under neath you will see the nut that is holding it you will need a long extension and a swivel.
should be 15, 14, or 13 mm
when installing the belt itself, you must put it on the idler pulley last that is the other smooth pulley, otherwise it will be a bear to get on. good luck.
Just did mine today.....Jack up the front as high as possible, remove front passenger wheel, put jackstands under car so it doesn't come down on you, remove the plastic inside fender well by taking out the 2 bolts and 3 plastic toggles, you need to remove the alternator belt to get to the power steering belt so loosen the center nut on the idler pulley/tensioner and then loosen the idler using the bottom nut/bolt to take the tension off the belt, remove the alternator belt first drawing a picture of how the belt is routed on all the pulleys for reassembly. Now loosen the 2 face nuts/bolts on the power steering belt idler pulley/tensioner and then use the nut/bolt on it's bottom to take the tesion off the belt and then remove the belt. Reinstall the belt and reverse everything to get it back together. Put on a new alternator belt on while your at it.