I need to know if you can just bleed the back lines and not touch the front I replaced the two back lines from the master c right to the rear brake c and now I can't get know presure to the back lines any Idea as of what I done wrong 1996 oldsmoible achiva
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Re: bleeding the brakes
You will need to bleed both rear calipers to get all the air out of the lines. This will take alot of time and patience to do this, but thats all you will need to do. It will take a while to bleed out all the air since they are very long lines your going through. You can just bleed the back, but since its right at the master cylinder I would do the back ones first and then the front ones just to be on the safe side. Thanks for Using FixYa!
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If the master cylinder is replaced, care must be taken to prime the new master cylinder by removing all of the air and completely filling it with brake fluid. The spongy feeling is air that is still in the circuits. You will need to bleed the back brakes as well as the front ones again. The order that you bled them seems correct, but perhaps there remained some air in the main trunk lines.
For the best results 2 people are needed. Start at the further distance wheel cylinder and bleed at least three (3) master cylinder reservoir volumes of fluid (back brakes). Bleed the fluid with use of a piece of tubing attached to the bleed port that is long enough to reach almost to the bottom of a long neck or tall clear jar (clear drink bottle works well). When the bleeding begins, after one or two brake pedal pushes, make sure that the end of the tubing is below the surface of the fluid and keep it under. It best to have a clear bleed line (to observe air). Keep pumping the brake pedal while being careful to not completely empty the master cylinder reservoir (leave 1/4 full always). Repeat the same technique for each wheel cylinder with at least two (2) reservoirs full for front brakes. Partially close the bleed ports when almost finished (at least 5 pedal strokes without exit of any air). Completely close the ports during the down stroke of the brake pedal, with the tubing still attached. Be sure each bleed port is closed snuggly.
Most of the brake fluid can be reused, but not the darker portion at the bottom of the jar.
You must start bleeding the brakes at the wheel farthest from the master cylinder (usually the right rear), then the next farthest from the master cylinder, then the next, then the closest. If your master cylinder is at the left front of the car, start with the right rear, then the left rear, then the right front, then the left front. If you don't bleed the brakes in the correct order, you are just shifting the air in the lines from one line to another. Make sure that you close the bleeder before letting the brake pedal up, and the engine should not be running when you bleed the brakes... Make sure that the emergency brake is off. Make sure that the master cylinder does not run out of brake fluid at any time that you are bleeding the brakes.
Ok here is what you have to do. First off make sure your master cylinder is full, Second your vehicle must be running when you bleed brakes that is equiped with ABS this allows the ABS pump to to run you must bleed both front brakes starting at the passenger side wheel then moving to the drivers side. It will take quit a bit of bleeding and be sure to keep checking fluid level in master cylinder well bleeding. Just remeber the vehicle must be running while bleeding the brakes.
First bench bleed the master cylinder. Or if its still on the car do this, have some one pump the pedal hold and open one line,do this three times, move to the next line pump three time hold and open the line. Hows the pedal. getting firmer no go ahead bleed as usual. let me know we can fix this together
it sounds like there is still air in the brake system that has not been removed.you don`t say if you replaced the brake pads and shoes(in which case you shouldn`t need to bleed)or you replaced a brake line(s) or wheel cylinder or caliper.you will have to keep bleeding the brakes all 4 wheels(trucks don`t use bi-directional braking meaning right rear brakes with left front and so on).bleed both rear brakes then bleed both front brakes,was this problem there before you replaced the brakes(soft pedal noticed) and this is why you changed the brakes or the pedal was soft and the brakes needed changing.its possible that the master cylinder has an internal leak and may need replacing.
The brake system bleeding procedure differs for ABS and non-ABS
vehicles. The following procedure pertains only to non-ABS vehicles. For
details on bleeding ABS equipped vehicles, refer to the ABS procedures
later in this section.
Make sure the master cylinder contains clean DOT 3 brake fluid at all times during the procedure.
The master cylinder must be bled first if it is suspected of containing air. Bleed the master cylinder as follows:
Position a container under the master cylinder to catch the brake fluid.
Loosen the left front brake line (front upper port) at the master cylinder and allow the fluid to flow from the front port.
Connect the line and tighten to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm).
Have an assistant depress the brake pedal slowly one time and hold
it down, while you loosen the front line to expel air from the master
cylinder. Tighten the line, then release the brake pedal. Repeat until
all air is removed from the master cylinder.
Tighten the brake line to 24 ft. lbs. (32 Nm) when finished.
Repeat these steps for the right front brake line (rear upper port) at the master cylinder.
Do not allow brake fluid to spill on or come in contact with the
vehicle' finish, as it will remove the paint. In case of a spill,
immediately flush the area with water.
If a single line or fitting was the only hydraulic line
disconnected, then only the caliper(s) or wheel cylinder(s) affected by
that line must be bled. If the master cylinder required bleeding, then
all calipers and wheel cylinders must be bled in the proper sequence:
Bleed the individual calipers or wheel cylinders as follows:
Place a suitable wrench over the bleeder screw and attach a clear plastic hose over the screw end.
Submerge the other end in a transparent container of brake fluid.
Loosen the bleed screw, then have an assistant apply the brake
pedal slowly and hold it down. Close the bleed screw, then release the
brake pedal. Repeat the sequence until all air is expelled from the
caliper or cylinder.
When finished, tighten the bleed screw to 97 inch lbs. (11 Nm) for the front, or 66 inch lbs. (7.5 Nm) for the rear.
Check the pedal for a hard feeling with the engine not running. If
the pedal is soft, repeat the bleeding procedure until a firm pedal is
Fig. 1: Loosen the front brake line in order to bleed the master cylinder
Fig. 2: Connect a bleed hose from the bleed valve on the front caliper to a jar of brake fluid
Fig. 3: Always follow the lettered sequence when bleeding the hydraulic brake system
Hope this helps to solve it; remember to rate this answer.
try bleeding them more,start with the right rear,then left rear,then right front ,then left front, always bleed the brake that is furthest from the master cylinder, sometimes you have to bleed them several times until you get a steady stream of brake fluid.
loosen the front brake line that goes to the master cylinder fill master cylinder up with fluid and bleed it first by attaching a flexible line from master cylinder front brake side submerge that line into jar of brakefluid keeping air from entering line get someone to pump brake pedal while ur holding line in a jar keep refilling the brake resivoir so no air gets in, once the master is bled front brake side then reattach the origional brake line then remove bleed screw from caliper and let fluid gravity flow down to calliper then bleed the normal way. more than likely your master cylinder has air trapped in the front portion good luck