Question about 1995 Ford F350

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Steering is uncontrollable

When driving the truck the steering is all over the place. The front end alignment and tie rod were recently repaired. I would like to know what else can it be or is there an adjustment that can be made to the steering box.

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  • gdhbr549 Feb 02, 2009

    Tires, all linkages and steering box are new. It still requires constant corrections left/right/left. And it is getting worse.

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If your truck has the solid front axle, then the most likely culprit is point at which the front leaf springs connect to the frame. This part is known as the shackle bushings and very commonly go out on this vehicle.

JJ

Posted on Dec 08, 2008

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No dont mess with that steering box adjustment. you can cause it to bind inside and not steer and crash. your problem may be caused by the steering box mounting bolts coming loose, or wallowing out elongated holes in the frame, allowing it to move around when you steer. if this isnt the problem, just buy a reman gearbox. they arent too much.

Posted on Nov 28, 2008

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2 Answers

There is a cluncking noise in the front end when moving the steering wheel front wheel drive


If you are only hearing this clunking sound when you are turning then you need to have your cv axles replaced. Also known as half-axles. In a truck, these are known as the universal joints. You can take your vehicle to the local tire/front end clinic and they will tell you whether or not, it is worth the fix.

Oct 24, 2011 | 1996 Ford Taurus

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Power steering gets hard when turning and it feels like the fluid isnt flowing the way it should


Hello, There is a reservoir line coming out of the bottom of the reservoir tank. This line goes to the front fluid cooler under the drivers' side front bumper. The line has both metal and rubber on it and the line mounts to the frame with plastic clips. The plastic clips hold moisture and salt next to the metal part of the line and it rusts. The frame will hide the leak and the line will draw in air making foam inside the pump. Check this line from the reservoir to the cooler.

Next, as the original owner of a 1999 model, I received a Service notice about the tie-rod ends. It said a Mechanic should separate the tie-rod ends when lubing the truck to check for rust in the socket of the tie-rod end. These are sealed fittings from the factory, Ford could have included fittings in the first place. I don't see any Mechanic doing the procedure without replacing the end.
So your tie-rod could need Service.

Check upper and lower ball-joints, rust can make the steering hard on any vehicle. If you decide to change out the pump, check whether the new pump comes with the pulley. Some of the pulleys require a special tool you can borrow from an Autoparts store and some pulley tools are meant to be used while the pump is still on the truck.

Steering and turning the wheels is also dependent on the front-end alignment. The alignment is something you can not do yourself, but the Mechanic would inspect the different things I mentioned for the ball-joints and tie-rods ends. To save money, you could replace all the ends yourself, by counting the number of turns each tie-rod end takes to come off. Then replace the end with the same number of turns. You would be close enough to drive for an Alignment.

I hope I have provided very good information for fixing your truck. Make sure the front tires are inflated well and have the heavy stuff done by someone with the right tools.

Apr 10, 2011 | 1999 Ford F250 Regular Cab

1 Answer

How do u repair the inner tie rod


Tie rods have replacable ends. You will need a tie rod end seperator, commonly called a "pickle fork". total length of the tie rod from ball joint tip to tip should be noted so that when you put the new end on, you can get it close enough to drive the car to the alignment shop for the needed front end alignment.

Jan 23, 2011 | 1993 Nissan Maxima

2 Answers

Sterring is loose and noise in the left front end


Sounds like you need some front end parts. You can narrow down the parts you may need though. Get a jack and some jack stands and raise the front of your vehicle so the front wheels are off the ground. The first thing I would check is the tie rod ends as this would give you loose steering. Now that your wheels are off the ground, take both hands and grab each side of a front tire and wiggle it side to side. Keep your eye on the other front tire. If you can move the tire side to side at all, even a little bit, and the other tire does not move side to side with it, you have bad tie rods. Locate the point where the tie rod end connects to the steering knuckle at the wheel. The tie rod end will have a rubber boot with a bolt going through with a nut and probably a cotter pin holding the nut in. Now wiggle the tire again and keep your eye on this spot where the rubber boot meets the steering knuckle. If your knuckle moves (even a little) and the tie rod end does not, THAT tie rod end is bad. There are inner and outer tie rod ends. You want to check the pivot point (the place that the tie rod end is connected) on the inner and outer tie rod ends on both wheels. Again, you are looking for one side to move and the other to not move. Even if it only looks like a couple mm, it is bad. There should be NO movement whatsoever. Once you have identified all loose parts by moving the wheels side to side, we can now check ball joints and bearings. To do this is very similar to what we just did only this time we grab the top and bottom of the wheel and try to move it back and forth. Pull the top of the tire towards you and push the bottom of the tire away from you then vise versa. There should be absolutely no wiggle. If you do get a little play here, locate your upper and lower ball joints. these too will have rubber boots on them and just like the tie rod ends, you are going to keep your eye on the point where the boot meets the A-arm. If you see any movement here, that ball joint is bad. Now, if your wheel wiggles back and forth but your ball joints are tight (zero movement) then you have issues with the wheel bearings. If you have to replace any tie rod ends you will have to have an alignment done because your toe will be off and you will wear out your tires. When replacing a tie rod end, prior to taking it off, count the number of threads that are visible. You want to leave that same number of threads visible when you install the new one. Keep in mind, this only gets the alignment close enough to get to the shop to have it aligned. Good Luck!!

Jan 08, 2011 | 1994 Isuzu Trooper

1 Answer

STeering wheel is loose and noisy while steering. Sounds like something broke inside.


This might help to understand the steering linkage: REMOVAL & INSTALLATION Fig. 1: Steering linkage used on the Bronco and 4-wheel drive F-150 84928067.gif
Fig. 2: Steering linkage used on the 4-wheel drive F-350 84928070.gif
Fig. 3: Steering linkage used on F-Super Duty chassis/cab 84928071.gif
Pitman Arm EXCEPT F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS AND MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Disconnect the drag link at the Pitman arm. You'll need a puller such as a tie rod end remover.
  3. Remove the Pitman arm-to-gear nut and washer.
  4. Matchmark the Pitman arm and gear housing for installation purposes.
  5. Using a 2-jawed puller, remove the Pitman arm from the gear.
  6. Installation is the reverse of removal. Align the matchmarks when installing the Pitman arm. Tighten the Pitman arm nut to 170-230 ft. lbs. (230-312 Nm); torque the drag link ball stud nut to 50-75 ft. lbs. (68-102 Nm), advancing the nut to align the cotter pin hole. Never back off the nut to align the hole.
F-SUPER DUTY STRIPPED CHASSIS MOTOR HOME CHASSIS
  1. Matchmark the Pitman arm and sector shaft.
  2. Disconnect the drag link from the Pitman arm.
  3. Remove the bolt and nut securing the Pitman arm to the sector shaft.
  4. Using a 2-jawed gear puller, remove the Pitman arm from the sector shaft. To install:
  5. Aligning the matchmarks, slide the Pitman arm onto the sector shaft. If the arm won't slide on easily, use a cold chisel to spread the separation. NEVER HAMMER THE ARM ONTO THE SHAFT! Hammering on the arm will damage the steering gear!
  6. Install the nut and bolt. Tighten the nut to 220-300 ft. lbs. (298-407 Nm).
  7. Connect the drag link.
Tie Rod and Drag Link EXCEPT RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  2. Remove the cotter pins and rust from the drag link and tie rod ball studs.
  3. Remove the drag link ball studs from the right-hand spindle and Pitman arm.
  4. Remove the tie rod ball studs from the left-hand spindle and drag link.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the nuts to 70 ft. lbs. (95 Nm). Always use new cotter pins.
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the nuts connecting the drag link ball studs to the connecting rod and Pitman arm.
  4. Disconnect the drag link using a tie rod end remover.
  5. Loosen the bolts on the adjuster clamp. Count the number of turns it take to remove the drag link from the adjuster. To install:
  6. Installation is the reverse of the removal procedure. Install the drag link with the same number of turns it took to remove it. Make certain that the wheels remain in the straight-ahead position during installation. Seat the studs in the tapered hole before tightening the nuts. This will avoid wrap-up of the rubber grommets during tightening of the nuts. Tighten the adjuster clamp nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm). Tighten the ball stud nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  7. Have the front end alignment checked.
Connecting Rod RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in the straight-ahead position.
  3. Disconnect the connecting rod from the drag link by removing the nut and separating the two with a tie rod end remover.
  4. Loosen the bolts on the adjusting sleeve clamps. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the connecting rod from the connecting rod from the adjuster sleeve and remove the rod.
  5. Installation is the reverse of removal. Install the connecting rod the exact number of turns noted during removal. Tighten the tie rod nuts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm); the ball stud nut to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm).
  6. Have the front end alignment checked.
Tie Rod Ends RUBBERIZED BALL SOCKET LINKAGE Fig. 4: Remove the cotter pin from the castellated nut at the ball stud 88288p02.jpg
Fig. 5: Remove the nut from the ball stud 88288p03.jpg
Fig. 6: Use a tie rod end puller tool to remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm 88288p04.jpg
Fig. 7: Liquid correction fluid makes excellent paint to mark the threads of the tie rod end 88288p05.jpg
Fig. 8: For a more accurate reinstallation, you may measure the tie rod end prior to removal 88288p06.jpg
Fig. 9: After having loosened the nut, unscrew and remove the tie rod end 88288p07.jpg
  1. Raise and support the front end on jackstands.
  2. Place the wheels in a straight-ahead position.
  3. Remove the ball stud from the Pitman arm using a tie rod end remover. NOTE: Optional: paint a mark or measure the length of the tie rod end threads to ease reinstallation in as close to the original position as possible.
  4. Loosen the nuts on the adjusting sleeve clamp. Remove the ball stud from the adjuster, or the adjuster from the tie rod. Count the number of turns it takes to remove the sleeve from the tie rod or ball stud from the sleeve. To install:
  5. Install the sleeve on the tie rod, or the ball in the sleeve the same number of turns noted during removal. Make sure that the adjuster clamps are in the correct position, illustrated, and torque the clamp bolts to 40 ft. lbs. (54 Nm).
  6. Keep the wheels facing straight-ahead and install the ball studs. Tighten the nuts to 75 ft. lbs. (102 Nm). Use new cotter pins.
  7. Install the drag link and connecting rod.
  8. Have the front end alignment checked.
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Sep 18, 2010 | 1996 Ford F150 Regular Cab

1 Answer

Bumping nose from front end {passenger side} when steering wheel is turned to the left.had car looked at they seem to think it's a busted stru,but it doesn't sit low,and also the tire is showing wear on...


Sounds more like a tie rod end is bad. Try a reliable shop that specializes in front end repair (any place but FIRESTONE). The tire wear could be due to the loose tie rod end throwing the car out of alignment.

Aug 10, 2010 | 1993 Oldsmobile Cutlass Ciera

3 Answers

Can someone tell me what Tie Rod Ends are? I've been told by my mechanic that I need to replace them. Why does the car need to be realigned when I get this service?


The tie rod is part of the steering mechanism. If you replace these they will not be exactly the same as the old ones which may have changed shape over time etc... Here is a very good site for info relating to your car and helps with all the technical stuff... http://news.carjunky.com/how_stuff_works/what-is-a-tie-rod-abc170.shtml

Apr 23, 2010 | 1992 Ford Explorer

2 Answers

REPLACING LEFT TIE RODS


Genreally speaking the outter tie rod is only worn. The inner connection to the rack is more of a coupling than a rod end. You will need a 22 mm openend wrench and probally a 16mm and a 18mm opened wrench. A set of pliers to remove the old and bend the new cotterpin. Remove wheel cover and loosen the wheel nuts. Jack up the car and place jack stand or wood blocking, (or as a minimum place the wheel you removed) under the car to prevent the car from falling on you while it's in the air. Do not rely on the jack to keep the car up. Cars are heavy. remove wheel Loosen jam nut that locks the tie rod end to the connecting rod of the steering rack, spray adjustment treads with penetetrating oil to help it spin free. You may have to lock the adjustable shaft by the placing wrench on the hex portion of the shaft just inwards of the tread. Remove the cotter pin from the tie rod end. Remove nut. Take hammer and drive the tie rod from the steering knuckle. To help with the alignment of the front wheel try not to move the the steering knucle brake assembly. Unscrew the tie rod , lubricate the tread and in stall the new one. adjust the treads so that the tie rod slides back into the steering knuckle without turning the knuckle. Install the tie rod nut, tighten and secure with new cotterpin. Do not tightnen the jam nut that locks the tie rod nut to the inner adjustment rod for the steering rack, instead place the wheel back on the car, lower car and finish tightnen. with the car lowered, position the car steering wheel straight. Look at right side wheel. You should be able to line the the edges of the front wheel with your eye's with the outside edge of the rear wheel. if this doesn't line up check steering wheel postion. Now after seeing what the wheel alaignment looks like on the right side, go to the left side. If you look along the outside of the left ire and you see the tread of the rear tire , you have to muckh toe out. Lenghten the adjustmne t rod by turning it clockwise. If when you look along the edge of the tire and you don't see the rear tire, turn the rod counter clockwise. Adjust slowly and always check that the steering wheel is in the straight position. Once you have it fairly close to straight, lock the jam nut on the tie rod and take to a wheel alignment company for finishing adjustment. Good luck.

Jul 14, 2009 | 2001 Chevrolet Malibu

3 Answers

Steering pulling to the right


Yes your car has outer tie rod ends.The steel on steel noise could be the metal plate behind your brake rotor could have got bent a little and is rubbing on the brake rotor.

Jun 15, 2009 | 1994 Nissan Maxima

1 Answer

Stablizer sway bar link


Remove the front wheel. Loosen the jam nut on the tie rod using pliers and wrench with lots of Liquid Wrench or other penetration oil. Back off the jam nut and mark the position of the tie rod end on the tie rod threads with paint.
Remove the cotter pin from the ballstud and then loosen the nut. Again more Liquid Wrench may be helpful. Now place the puller (special tool from auto parts store or Sears Craftsman) over the steering knuckle and separate the tie rod end from the knuckle. Fully remove the nut and then turn the tie rod end off the tie rod.
Installation is just the reverse with the new tie rod end turned on the tie rod up to the paint mark. Tighten the jam nut up to the tie rod end. Secure the tie rod end to the steering knuckle with the nut with a torque of 35 to 46 ft-lbs and insert a new cotter pin. Don't forget to reinstall the front wheel. Checking the front end alignment is recommended. Do not get the more expensive four wheel alignment as they cannot make any adjustment to align the rear wheels. ps Buy at least the Haynes Repair Manual for your car or splurge and buy the Ford complete repair manual.

Oct 03, 2008 | 1996 Ford Taurus

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