An expert who has achieved level 2 by getting 100 points
An expert that got 5 achievements.
An expert that has over 500 points.
An expert who has answered 200 questions.
Re: clutch not engaging
If there is no fluid in the clutch cylinder then check that part of the system for leaks and repair/replace the componant. If it is the cylinder and not the pipe work, then the rubber seals have worn to excass. You may beable to buy the seals to repair the cylinder but I fear if that is the case of a new cylinder.
a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Look and see if there is a second master cylinder under the hood of your truck, near the brake master cylinder, in fornt of the driver's seat. This would be the clutch master cylinder, and should be slightly smaller than the brake nmaster cylinder. From your description, that clutch master cylinder may be out of fluid, brake fluid. Probably your slave cylinder has failed, it is attached to your transmission on the other (lower end) of the brake line from the firewall master cylinder. Adding brake fluid might get the clutch to work long enough to get your car to a garage or up on some ramps so you can fix it. Be blessed
The clutch is not adjustable,it is a fluid clutch.It has to be a leak,or the slave cylinder,and,or, the master cylinder are bad,It does not have to be leaking to be bad,but it is one of the two.Rate please,thank you.
The trans will need to come out. While your at it, just replace the clutch assembly, rear main oil seal, resurface the flywheel, and the clutch master cyl. Its not really a job you should do, find a repair shop to handle it.
You have to bleed the system again they can be a pain in the b@TT, also get a second person to operate the clutch and watch to see if the lever moves, if it does pull off the rubber and make sure you have the Y on the pivot ball inside the transmission. And if you don't get enough throw adjust the clutch rod on the clutch pedal by removing the pin and loosen the lock nut and make it longer by unscrewing the shaft. You want a half inch of free play at the top of the pedal the you want the clutch to catch about 3/4 of the way down. Also if you try to put it in gear does it grind the gears? Also did you put the clutch plate in backwards this is a common mistake even for a pro who gets interrupted by a phone call or a good-looking gal walking by, if ya need more suggestions let me know by posting to this comment. Avid101
There is a rubber plug on the bottom of the transmission bellhousing. Remove the plug and look in to see if the slave cylinder is leaking. If yes the transmission will need removed to replace it. While you are there, check the clutch disc and pressure plate and replace as needed.
Ok you want to check if your slave cylinder is bled and that is the pressure plate. However, the clutch may have pressure, it dose not always engage the clutch all the way witch would cause a slamming of the clutch. Anothing thing is to check is that if you have had your clutch changed recently make sure that the proper clutch has been in staled because there are a couple diffrent choises out their. If thats not it all I can think of is your slave cylinder fluid is low. You can use a hand held brake vaccum bleeder to do this as well and it removes a bunch of the air.
Bleeding a clutch properly removes all the air from the clutch line. You want to remove the air through the master cylinder at the top of the clutch system rather than through the bottom by pumping the clutch pedal. Pumping the clutch will not remove all the air. Bleeding the clutch on a Ford Ranger will take about 20 or 30 minutes.
Raise your truck 6 inches off the ground with a jack. You can drive the truck on ramps if you have them. Lifting the truck will make it easier to bleed the clutch I promise.
Use a turkey baster to **** the brake fluid out of the brake fluid reservoir located at the top of the master cylinder.
Fill the pump style oil can with brake fluid and attach the flex line to the opening on the oil can. Use a new can. You do not want to pump dirt particles or another fluid into the clutch line. This is just good practice I think.
Pump the flex line with brake fluid to remove all the air. You do not want to add additional air to the clutch system.
Open the bleeder valve located on the internal cylinder with a 7mm wrench and quickly attach the flex line to the valve. I believe this is the wrench you need this is what the size of my ranger is but yours may differ. (Remember the slave cylinder may be inside the transmission bell housing.)
Pump the can to move brake fluid up the clutch line. Stop when you no longer see bubbles coming out of the brake fluid reservoir. It should take about 5 minutes to remove all the air from your system.
Use the wrench to close the bleeder valve and remove the flex line from the bleeder valve and this should complete your job.
I hope you have the best of luck with this project!