Tools needed to remove front breaks on 2002 Jetta

i just changed my front rotors and pads on my 2001 escape, 6 cylinder. everyone was wrong on the wrench sizes, including the idiots at my local ford dealer. to get the brake calipers off I needed a 7mm hex bit. to get the caliper bracket off I needed an 18mm socket, it was a very easy job but check your wrench sizes first, it seems that every year and model uses different sizes.

You will need a 7mm allen to remove the front brake caliper.

Here are the full instructions and tools needed.

Required tools:

13mm open end wrench 10mm shallow and deep socket 8mm socket long flathead screwdriver 17mm deep socket T50 torx socket 1/4", 3/8ths and 1/2" ratchets and extensions E10 inverted torx sockets 6mm Allen wrench 15mm open end wrench 7mm socket 12mm open end wrench 14mm socket 12mm socket 8mm, 9mm and 10mm Allen head sockets 19mm socket pry bar needle nose pliers

If you are doing this because your timing belt broke you will also need to buy a complete cylinder head, head gasket set, and both idler pulleys. ALL DAEWOO MODELS WILL BREAK THE INTAKE AND EXHAUST VALVES WHEN THE TIMING BELT BREAKS.

Start by removing the air cleaner assembly from the throttle body, remove the air filter and housing jack up the vehicle and remove the wheel, remove the plastic shielding in front of the accessory drive belt assembly, remove the accessory drive belt, place a jack with a block of wood on top underneath the engine oil pan remove the front engine mount, remove the crank shaft pulley ( the 4 Allen head bolts only not the 17mm bolt in the center.) remove the metal plate behind the engine mount bracket on the engine, remove the plastic timing belt cover 3 clips on top 2 10mm bolts on bottom. Rotate the engine until the #1 cyl. is at Top Dead Center on the compression stroke or line up the crankshaft timing mark with the mark on the inner timing belt cover ( notch in cover with notch in pulley) on the camshaft pulleys -- ( intake cam line up the line on the pulley with the line on the inner cover)( exhaust cam line up the arrow on the pulley with the arrow on the inner cover) loosen the 13mm bolt in the belt tensioner and using the Allen wrench rotate the tab until there is slack in the belt. Remove the belt. At this time I would recommend you replace the water pump, both plastic idler pulleys as they tend to overheat and lockup, and the belt tensioner. Make sure all your marks are lined up, you may need a helper to hold the Exhaust Cam in place as it tends to move during belt installation. Put the timing belt underneath the crankshaft pulley, install the belt leaving the intake cam for last and NO BELT SLACK on the right side between the crank and the exhaust cam. Once the belt is installed rotate the crankshaft over 2 revolutions and make sure is rotates freely, and your timing marks are aligned perfectly if not the engine will not run properly, tension the belt as needed. Installation is the same as removal.

i just changed my front rotors and pads on my 2001 escape, 6 cylinder. everyone was wrong on the wrench sizes, including the idiots at my local ford dealer. to get the brake calipers off I needed a 7mm hex bit. to get the caliper bracket off I needed an 18mm socket, it was a very easy job but check your wrench sizes first, it seems that every year and model uses different sizes.

I just did my front brakes yesterday and it needed a star drive ( torx wrech ) bit, not an Allen wrench

Seven millimeter (7mm)

It's either 8mm Allen OR 8mm 12 point

A set of wrenches and either a c-clamp or vise grips that look like the c-clamp, and a small block of wood. You'll have to push the brake calliper piston back in.

Nothing special. I think the only two things you need is a large C-clamp used to compress the piston and metric allen wrenches. I can't remember the size but getting a large set, you will have it included. You can always lean under the car and get an impression of the head of the bolt.

Other than that, there is no other special tools needed. Very simple to do the brakes on these cars.

Incorrect. There is no dipstick, but it's not sealed. On the front of the trans there is a 17mm allen head fill hole. On the lower driverside there is a drain. Don't have a 17mm? The lugnuts for the wheels are 17mm. Flip a lug nut in the allen and put a flat wrench on it.

No special tools, no special fluid and no special computers.

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