Tested all sensors all computers wiring harness for continuity all check out fine. no spark. the motor has coil packs all good. this is the straight 6 engine.all components were checked per the manual without the power on so computers werent spiked. are these computers compatible? could it be ecu module. my research tells me flywheel position can be problem but when put it in it had pin.im hearing ignition control module? is this different from computer on top of steering column? i have been working to solve the no spark problem for quite some time now. any suggestions would help.
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Try using one of the old plugs and connect it to #1 and a good ground then try starting to visually confirm if spark is/is not present. Its much easier to see the spark in the dark. If you get a spark the problem is not electrical and could be a bad ground between the plug and the block, rarely happens, but not unheard of.
Parts stores can test ignition module. You can check ignition fuse and tap on relay. Crank sensor is common failed part, but harder to test. If you know how to access it, you can test for continuity by back probing connector.
Trying to diagnose others work can be difficult but have done it many times. First I need to know basically at this point if you are getting power to the dark green & orange wire at each injector as well as the dark green and orange wire at the coil itself. If you have an ohm meter check to see if you are getttting continuity from that wire at the coil as to any of those wires (dark green and orange) at any of the injectors. Below is a picture of some relays under the hood. The one with the red arrow is the auto shutdown relay which will cause no power to all those dark green and orange wires. You may still have fuel prssure but this will shut down power to the injectors as well as power at that wire to the coil. The other relays that have the x out mark are needed but the one with the yellow arrow is the A/C clutch relay. I'm not 100 percent sure so check the numbers to see if they match. If they do swap those 2 out to see if it may be a relay issue. This is what I would start at first. Start from point "A" the basics (this test) and go on to the next step. There are fuse links as well but lets start here. Feel free to email me directly for any other tests if needed at firstname.lastname@example.org and I will be happy to try and help. No there won't be a cost to you but do remind me of what's been done so far as well as the model and engine size. Hope it's something this simple for you...
You have three choices. First, check the spark and coil system to ensure you are getting a spark. Pull off a plug wire from the coil pack and crank. Have someone watch to see sparks snapping off the coil pack. If you don't have any replace the control module under the coil packs.
Second, you may not be getting enough fuel pressure. Put a gauge on the fuel pressure test port. You may have a bad oil pressure sensor, located down above the oil filter. Check that oil pressure sender and make sure the connector is pushed in. The power to the fuel pump runs through the oil sender. If the engine starts and oil pressure doesn't come up quickly, the computer will shut off the fuel pump. Check this and you can also manually engage the fuel pump from the relay block down by the passenger feet.
Third choice, and it's a long shot, check the harmonic balancer and the crank position sensor. If the sensor is bad, the computer has no idea when to fire the spark plugs. A magnet is on the harmonic balancer and flys by a sensor to induce a voltage in the coil and tell the computer what position the crank is in.
It is most likely a sensor. It is common in these. You may check them with an ohmmeter. You may also test relays the same way.
A vehicle needs gas and spark to run. One of them is not getting to motor. You can check fuel pressure on test port on fuel rail for fuel. You can pull off a spark plug, plug it back into wire, lay it on top of motor, have someone else crank, while you watch for spark, Put back in, move to next plug wire.
If you have fuel, replace the coil plate, you fried the diode in the coil plate causing it to not fire to test you need a spark plug detector light to see if your getting spark. If you just disconnect the wire and test it like the old spark plug system you will fry the coil or the diode in the plate, I forget what ford calls it, GM calls it a firing diode?? I think rusty memory.
I had a very similar problem as most did on this stalling out, no start, and no spark on my 1994 Dodge Intrepid 3.3L V6. I was told to watch my Tachometer in the car to see if it moved at all while cranking the engine over. It did not move. So that told me the crankshaft sensor was not picking up any signal what so ever. I changed it. The engine immediately started. So I left the engine run for approx. 25 minutes then the engine died. I had again lost spark but had minor RPM on the tachometer during engine crank. I dug thru all the wiring harnesses and found that when I moved the connector to the Coil pack/Module the engine would start. I got the problem narrowed down to the connector but have not replaced it yet. I put a little slack in the harness the wires run in so the harness is not pulling on the connector. This has seemed to solve the problem for me. At least for now. email@example.com