After replacing rear right caliper and brake hose on 99 626 6cls and replacing pads on rear left and right. Bled breaks and check for leaks and test drive car. every thing ok. next day started car, when a mile or so and abs and trc lights come on. shut engine down and restarted car, abs and trc lights were not on. test drive and lights come on after a mile of driving.
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I think the problem is the brake pad or caliper, brake pad are too thick or the caliper are not good casted. First try to confirm if you get a right brake caliper
,then confirm the brake disc ,brake pad, if they all ok, tear down the
bracket of caliper, put into brake pad, then put into brake rotor. http://www.fiverhope.com/category-4-b0-Brake-caliper.html
All four brakes must be bled to eliminate the trapped air...probably not anything else...try lubricating the bleeder fitting with PB Blaster before trying to open...be cautious as this valve can break off, and that means rebuild the caliper drill out broken fitting...or replace caliper...either way all 4 brakes must be bled...start with the rear farthest away from the master cylinder then other rear...then right front, then last is left front...Hope this helps.
If the caliper is seizing and it is not the caliper it is the module that controls how the brake fluid is distributed. I don't have my book in front of me at the moment but when you look under teh hood on teh drivers side you will see a block that has the brake lines coming out of it. That is part of teh ABS system is one is installed and is a master brake control hub if it ABS isn't installed. being that new I would assume it was equipped with ABS. There are a couple of ways you can test if this is teh problem. If I remember correctly the MPV brakes with all 4 brakes, that means you can, as a temp test, switch the lines to see if the caliper problem changes to the different caliper. If it does then you know for a fact it is that unit and not the caliper. Also, something to consider, the caliper that is locking maybe locking because the problem is actually the caliper on the opposite side. If the caliper on the left front is stuck in the open position, on occasion that will cause too much fluid pressure to the right front giving you the impression the problem is the right side and it isn't. This is rare but certainly a possibility. As a general rule you should always replace Calipers in pairs. If you replace the right front you should replace the left front, same with the rear calipers.
did you bench bled master? if yes do you have abs system,if so you must bleed at abs block,if it has bleeders, if not then you must line bleed all 6 lines.2in from master 4 out to wheeles. then rebleed wheel in cylinder.If you have bleeders at abs block you dont to rebleed wheels. best dun with powerbleeder. hoooooops this helps
Bleed right rear,left rear, right front, left front in that order to be sure of good bleed but the brake booster makes it easy to push pedal. Make sure of no leaks from master cylinder. Otherwise brake hoses being soft will also hurt baking quickly.
The most over looked culpret and is also a good possibility could be a brake hose that is deteriating on the inside of the hose or frozen or un-lubricated slide pins. Not just any old grease will do. You you need caliper grease for the pins. The grease has to be able to withstand the heat and not break down. You don't want to go overboard with the grease either because it will collect brake dust and gum up. A light coat is great. If the caliper is able to be compressed back into the caliper with the bleeder valve broken loose then it's likely you have a bad hose. Replace hose and bleed brake system starting from the right rear brake, then left Rear, right front and finally left front. If it doesn't back off check the slide pins for ware and that they function and are not frozen up. Do you see any wet fluid leaking from the caliper or on the brake pads and rotor? I have a 1 ton Ford Diesel that the Rt Front caliper wasn't backing off until I broke free the bleeder valve and found that it was not the caliper, but the hose was bad, the slide path was all rusted and the slide pins were shot. Replaced for hose, slide pins, wire brushed slide path, and greased slide pins and path with caliper grease. Bought a small bottle of brake fluid to bleed the brakes. Total caost was aprox $25.00. New caliper for my truck would cost me $64.00 plus core charge for the old caliper. I had to change out my calipers in the rear as well so that's how I know the cost saved. If you have those little shiney clips that the pads ride on (top and bottom) you need to pop them off and knock loose any rust, brake dust and dirt and then clean up the clips with a wire brush. What happens is rust (usually) bubbles up under the clip and makes the clip raise up slightly. You can't really see the clip raised up but the tolerance is so close that the pads will actually bind up on the bubble and make it seem like the caliper isn't releasing. Depends on what style you have.
Did you replace them yourself or did you take them to a "qualified brake specialist"? It sounds like your brake lines need to be bled properly. You may also have one or more calipers sticking to cause the vibration.