a 6ya Mechanic can help you resolve that issue over the phone in a minute or two.
Best thing about this new service is that you are never placed on hold and get to talk to real repair professionals here in the US. click here to Talk to a Mechanic (only for users in the US for now) and get all the help you need. Goodluck!
- If you need clarification, ask it in the comment box above.
- Better answers use proper spelling and grammar.
- Provide details, support with references or personal experience.
Tell us some more! Your answer needs to include more details to help people.You can't post answers that contain an email address.Please enter a valid email address.The email address entered is already associated to an account.Login to postPlease use English characters only.
Tip: The max point reward for answering a question is 15.
Sounds like a misfire or a bad valve. If this isn't what your looking for please let me know. The more information and details, the better. The vehicles maintenance history, "Engine Light" status (on or off), what tests you have run, and anything that you have noticed. Rough idle issues can be caused by more than one type of failure. Examples: clogged fuel or air filter, stuck/damaged EGR valve, restriction inside exhaust, spark plugs, timing, or low fuel pressure. There are more examples but it would be better if you could tell me more. Good luck.
Couldn't happen just from replacing timing cover. Now if you replace timing belt/chain then yes it would be sluggish or not run at all. Sound more like you have issue with cold start valve. Also, the accumulator is a likely place to begin, particularly because you say
that it's only the first start that has hard cranking. A
properly-functioning accumulator keeps the fuel system pressurized
enough to open the injectors without a lot of cranking. If pressure
bleeds off due to a poor accumulator, the fuel pumps have to run a while
in order to re-pressurize the system, hence, long cranking times. The quick test is to cycle the
ignition key 3-4 times before you attempt to start the cold motor so
that the pump runs each of those times and is allowed to build up some
fuel pressure before the engine is started. If that test helps, you've
identified a fuel pressure problem, almost certainly the accumulator.
yes the timing belt seems ok but get someone to turn engine over and make sure they turn because sometimes the teeth come off the belt at the bottom pulley so although it appears ok it may not be the case and when this happens they go as the engine stops .
Sounds like its time for a new timing belt and its idler pulley. The old belt has more than likely slipped a notch or two. Ford suggests they get replaced at 75000 to 80000 miles. Replacing the timing belt is an extremely difficult task. If its not lined up correctly engine failure will result. Could also be a vacuum leak. Check all vacuum lines paying particular attention to vacuum lines running from the intake manifold and on the throttle body. Check the vacuum line under the throttle body. Any vacuum line (rubber) that turns your fingers pitch black with a light touch has or is about to fail.
if the vehicle did cut of and if the timing belt is broken chances are you have damaged the valves in the head, the 1.9 engines are famous for it, however i would first install the timing bel and a water pump properly and try starting the car if it starts make sure it is running smooth if it runs rough, or if it fails to stop, you definately have bent valves usually all the exhaust valves and if this be the cse the heaad has to be worked on in a machine shop