Question about 1998 Toyota Corolla

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Brake-shudder(extremely) have replaced both outer cv-joints,both shocks,both balljoints,both tyre-rod ends,both brake discs and brake-pads in front but still the shudder remains? pls help?

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  • Toyota Ed May 11, 2010

    When you apply the brakes, where do you feel the vibration most?

    Please be as specific as you can.

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Reserface rotors on car and spin balance tires and wheels.

Posted on Nov 26, 2008

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I have a 04 cavalier front end shakes I replaced the tie rod ends and it's stillshakes what could be the issue


CV joints, warped rotor or rim, bad tire.. gosh I wish I could pinpoint it for ya.. Good car though, had one with 186,000 on it before somebody rear ended it.

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Cr shuddering at speeds 30 to 40 mph ford


Loose tie rod or other suspension component. When my inner tie rod was loose the car would shake like crazy

Apr 10, 2015 | 1997 Ford Explorer AWD

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Replace cv joints


Hi Douglas, I'm glad to help. My first suggestion is to get to complete shaft. This way you want have any problems later on. It's not that much more expensive and you'll be glad you did. Below is the procedure for replacing them.



FRONT DRIVESHAFTS

REMOVAL
  1. Raise vehicle on jack stands or centered on a frame contact type hoist. Refer to Hoisting in the Lubrication And Maintenance section of this manual for the required lifting procedure to be used for this vehicle.
  2. Remove the cotter pin and nut lock Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut from the end of the stub axle.
  3. Remove the wheel and tire assembly from the vehicle.
  4. Remove the wave washer Wave Washer from the end of the stub axle CAUTION: Wheel bearing damage will result if after loosening hub nut, vehicle is rolled on the ground or the weight of the vehicle is allowed to be supported by the tires.
  5. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, loosen and remove the stub axle to hub nut.
  6. Remove the two front disc brake caliper to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts
  7. Remove the disc brake caliper from the steering knuckle. Caliper is removed by first rotating top of caliper away from steering knuckle and then removing bottom of caliper out from under machined abutment on steering knuckle Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  8. Support disc brake caliper assembly by using a wire hook and suspending it from the strut assembly Correctly Supported Disc Brake Caliper Do not allow the brake caliper assembly to hang by the brake flex hose.
  9. Remove the brake rotor from the hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Remove nut attaching outer tie rod end to steering knuckle Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut Nut is to be removed from tie rod end using the following procedure, hold tie rod end stud with a 11/32 socket while loosening and removing nut with a wrench.
  11. Remove tie rod end from steering knuckle using Remover, Special Tool MB-991113 Tie Rod End Removal From Steering Knuckle Arm
  12. Remove the steering knuckle to ball joint stud, clamping nut and bolt Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment from the steering knuckle.
  13. Using a pry bar, separate steering knuckle from ball joint stud Separating Ball Joint Stud From Steering Knuckle Note: Use caution when separating ball joint stud from steering knuckle, so ball joint seal does not get cut. NOTE: Care must be taken not to separate the inner C/V joint during this operation. Do not allow driveshaft to hang by inner C/V joint after removing outer C/V Joint from the hub/bearing assembly in steering knuckle, end of driveshaft must be supported.
  14. Pull steering knuckle assembly out and away from the outer C/V joint of the driveshaft assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  15. Support the outer end of the driveshaft assembly. Insert a pry bar between inner tripod joint and transaxle case Disengaging Inner Tripod Joint From Transaxle Pry against inner tripod joint, until tripod joint retaining snap ring is disengaged from transaxle side gear.
  16. Hold inner tripod joint and interconnecting shaft of driveshaft assembly. Remove inner tripod joint from transaxle, by pulling it straight out of transaxle side gear and transaxle oil seal Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle When removing tripod joint, do not let spline or snap ring drag across sealing lip of the transaxle to tripod joint oil seal.
INSTALLATION
  1. Thoroughly clean spline and oil seal sealing surface, on tripod joint. Lightly lubricate oil seal sealing surface on tripod joint with fresh clean transmission lubricant.
  2. Holding driveshaft assembly by tripod joint and interconnecting shaft, install tripod joint into transaxle side gear as far as possible by hand Tripod Joint Removal from Transaxle
  3. Grasp inner tripod joint an interconnecting shaft. Forcefully push the tripod joint into side gear of transaxle, until snap ring is engaged with transaxle side gear. Test that snap ring is fully engaged with side gear by attempting to remove tripod joint from transaxle by hand. If snap ring is fully engaged with side gear, tripod joint will not be removable by hand.
  4. Clean all debris and moisture out of steering knuckle, in the area were outer C/V joint will be installed into steering knuckle.
  5. Ensure that front of outer C/V joint which fits against the face of the hub and bearing is free of debris and moisture before installing outer C/V joint into hub and bearing assembly Outer C/V Joint Inspection
  6. Slide drive shaft back into front hub and bearing assembly. Then install steering knuckle onto the stud of the ball joint assembly Steering Knuckle Separation From Driveshaft
  7. Install a new steering knuckle to ball joint clamping bolt and nut Control Arm To Steering Knuckle Attachment Tighten the clamping bolt and nut to a torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  8. Install tie rod end into steering knuckle. Start attaching nut onto stud of tie rod end. While holding stud of tie rod end stationary using a 11/32 socket, Removing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut tighten tie rod end to steering knuckle attaching nut. Then using a crowfoot and 11/32 socket Torquing Tie Rod End Attaching Nut , tighten the tie rod end attaching nut to a torque of 54 N·m (40 ft. lbs.)
  9. Install braking disc on hub and bearing assembly Remove/Install Brake Rotor
  10. Install disc brake caliper assembly on steering knuckle. Caliper is installed by first sliding bottom of caliper under abutment on steering knuckle, and then rotating top of caliper against top abutment Brake Caliper Mounting To Steering Knuckle
  11. Install disc brake caliper assembly to steering knuckle attaching bolts Front Disc Brake Caliper Attaching Bolts Tighten the disc brake caliper assembly attaching bolts to a torque of 22 N·m (195 in. lbs.)
  12. Clean all foreign matter from the threads of the outer C/V joint stub axle. Install the washer and stub axle to hub/bearing assembly nut on stub axle and securely tighten nut.
  13. Install front wheel and tire assembly. Install and tighten the wheel mounting stud nuts in proper sequence until all nuts are torqued to half the required specification. Then repeat the tightening sequence to the full specified torque of 135 N·m (100 ft. lbs.)
  14. Lower vehicle.
  15. With the vehicle's brakes applied to keep hub from turning, tighten the hub nut to a torque of 244 N·m (180 ft. lbs.) Torquing Front Stub Axle To Hub Nut
  16. Install the spring wave washer on the end of the stub axle.
  17. Install the hub nut lock, and a new cotter pin Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut Wrap cotter pin prongs tightly around the hub nut lock as shown in Hub And Bearing To Stub Axle Retaining Nut
  18. Check for correct fluid level in transaxle assembly. Refer to Group 21, Transaxle for the correct fluid level checking procedure for the type of transaxle being checked.
  19. Set front toe on vehicle to required specification.

May 07, 2014 | 2000 Dodge Caravan

1 Answer

MY 2005 EQUINOX AWD front right wheel intermittent braking and shaking


Could be caused by a sticking/failing CV joint. If you check boots and see cracks or tears most likely the Joint then got debris which could lead to failure.
Confirm that it FEELS like brakes are active but your NOT applying brakes. If this is the case then my thought on CV joint would be first check. I had one fail a few years ago and it was similar. Vibration started and then I could feel the vehicle slowing.

If you ARE applying brakes and you fee the shudder or vibration then it may be related to a tie rod end. A worn tie rod allows the wheel to go off track slightly and the result we feel when driving is a shudder or vibration.

Hope this helps guide to a solution.

Apr 07, 2013 | 2005 Chevrolet Equinox LT

1 Answer

Front end shaking violently when braking


Hi BM, When you press the brake pedal do you feel a kickback or a pumping action against your foot? If so the problem is with the brake discs. they will need skimming or replacing. If you do not feel the pumping action, have the tyres and the front end checked, looking for wear in the suspension rubber bushing, ball joints, tie rod ends, rack ends, and any damage to the front superstructure. The shock absorbers can also cause a bouncing and thereby instability when braking. Regards John

Aug 11, 2012 | 1997 Mazda Protege

1 Answer

Changing cvc joints 1997 accord


replace the entire CV axles. Support vehicle with jackstands by frame. Remove front wheels. Remove axle nuts. Remove lower balljoint nut. Separate balljoint from nuckle by banging hard with ball peen hammer on knuckle on spindle assy. Remove outer tie-rod nut. Separate tie-rod from steering nuckle by bangin on nuckle with ball-peen hammer. Use long pry bar to hold lower control arm down while simultaneously pulling hub/spindle assembly away from vehicle and pushing axle through hub toward transaxle. Go under vehicle and pry inner cv joint away from transaxle while holding axle assembly.
Install new CV axle in reverse of the disassembly.

Feb 21, 2010 | 1997 Honda Accord

1 Answer

Rattling noise from near side front wheel area. Have checked for play on bearing and checked brake disc. No problem detected. Noise only occurs at low speeds.


i have the exact same problem ive got 2001 honda civic and have an annoying rattle from the wheel area. i have replaced cv joint, ball joint, sway bar drop links, strut, and suspension bushing and arm....but still rattle noise is there. dnt have a clue what it could be, from looking on the internet i have found few possibilities.....lower control arm/bushin...motor mounts....gear box mounts....strut rod bushing....axle....inner/outer cv joint....calliper pins......shock/shock bushing...or wheel bearing. im hoping tio get all this checked out its got to be able to be fixed somehow!

Dec 29, 2009 | 1997 Volkswagen Golf

1 Answer

I am trying to get the wheel assembly apart to change the front bearings on a 1996 mercury villiger


http://groups.yahoo.com/group/villagerquest/

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Item Part Number Description 1 — Cotter Pin 2 — Nut Retainer 3 1131 Insulator 4 3B477 Front Axle Wheel Hub Retainer 5 1195 Front Wheel Outer Bearing Retainer Washer 6 1104 Wheel Hub 7 1107 Lug Bolt 8 3K050 Snap Ring 9 3123 Front Wheel Bearing 10 2K004 Front Disc Brake Rotor Shield 11 3130 Front Wheel Knuckle

Wheel Hub, Wheel Knuckle and Wheel Bearing SPECIAL SERVICE TOOL(S) REQUIRED Description Tool Number Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A
Removal
  1. Raise and support the vehicle.
  2. Remove the wheel (1007) and tire assembly.
  3. NOTE: It is not necessary to disconnect the front brake hose (2078).

    Remove the disc brake caliper (2B120) and suspend it with mechanic's wire out of the way. Refer to Section 06-03 for the removal procedure.
  4. Remove the front disc brake rotor (1125).
  5. Remove and discard the cotter pin.
  6. Remove the nut retainer and insulator.
  7. Remove the front axle wheel hub retainer (3B477) and the front wheel outer bearing retainer washer (1195).




  8. Remove and discard the cotter pin from the front suspension lower arm ball joint (3050).
  9. Loosen the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut until it contacts the front wheel driveshaft joint.


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  10. Strike the front wheel knuckle with a hammer while pulling down on the front suspension lower arm (3078) until the front suspension lower arm ball joint separates from the front wheel knuckle.




  11. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint nut.




  12. Remove the front suspension lower arm ball joint from the front wheel knuckle.
  13. Remove and discard the cotter pin.




  14. Remove the tie rod end nut.




  15. Use Tie Rod End Separator T85M-3395-A to separate the tie rod end (3A130) from the front wheel knuckle.




  16. Remove the front brake anti-lock sensor bolt.




  17. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts.




  18. Remove the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  19. Remove the front shock absorber (18124) from the front wheel knuckle.
  20. Use 2-Jaw Puller D80L-1002-L, or equivalent, to separate the front wheel driveshaft and joint (3B436) from the front wheel knuckle.
  21. Remove the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly from the vehicle.
  22. If necessary, match mark and remove the steering stop bolt and steering stop bolt jam nut from the front wheel knuckle.




Installation
  1. Position the front wheel hub, front wheel knuckle and front wheel bearing as an assembly on the front wheel driveshaft and joint.
  1. Install the front wheel knuckle into the front shock absorber.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle bolts.
  1. Install the two front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts. Tighten the front shock absorber-to-front wheel knuckle nuts to 113-123 Nm (83-91 lb-ft).

Apr 10, 2009 | 1996 Mercury Villager

1 Answer

Cv joint on driver side needs replacing


Hi there. You really need to replace the whole cv saft on the side that is noisy. Changing just the joint is possible but requires pulling the shaft anyway and is not very probable since the cost and extra labor are as much as buying a new shaft. In either case you will pull your front wheel and brake assembley off the culprit side. Once this is done, you will need to seperate the lower controlarm from the hub via the lower ball joint. This can be done with prybars, but its hard and you will probably rip the rubber boot on the balljoint so its best to use a balljoint press available in many autoparts stores rent-a-tool programs. Once the ball joint is removed you should be able to pull the hub assembley out tword you enough to remove the cv shaft splines from the hub. If you do not have enough room, you may need to seperate the tie rod end as well. You can use the ball joint press for this as well. Once the splined end of the shaft is free of the hub, take a pry bar and find a place on the other end of the shaft where you can pry it out away from the transmission. Sometimes this requires giving it a quick **** to pop it out but there are no bolts or anything holding it. Do becareful not to put the prybar against any breakable components. Once shes out put your new one in the trans and shove it until it clicks in. Put the outer end into the hub before reconnecting the ball joint other wise your not likley to get it in and will have to seperate the joint again. After that you just put ypur brakes and stuff together and you are good to go.

Mar 17, 2009 | 2002 Chrysler PT Cruiser

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