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Re: 84 ford not charging
The only thing that comes to mind is electrical connections--battery cable connections (obvious, but worth mentioning) and all wiring to alt. and regulator, nothing loose, corroded? I'd also check the battery by swapping in something else that may fit, or having it tested. Yes, it's new, but I have seen (although rarely) a bad battery that was right off the shelf, wouldn't take a charge.
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you can have your altenator tested at an autozone,advance auto for free while it's still on the car,or you can check it yourself by starting the car,while running disconnect the positive cable,be careful not to let that cable touch anything. if the car dies,the altenators bad. as far as a fuse, you may have a fuseable link,but those are usually for the starter.someone may have done some other wiring to it.i would check the altenator first though.also make sure your belts tight and the altenator is plugged in. check the plug on the altenator to insure it's plugged in all the way.make sure your battery cables are tight. if you decide to go to a parts store to have the altenators good,have them check your battery also. it's free.if your car runs fine until you park it at night and then next morining it will not start,it may be bad battery.just thought i would throw that in,just in case.hope this helps and thank you for choosing fixya.com
The first question for you is, What is the charging output for the altenator at idle?? If less than 12.3 volts, replace altenator. Typically, the altenator gets tested at 2500-3000 rpm on a bench tester. Your problem may be in the low rpm output range.
The diagram shows a capacitor between the regulator red wire and ground on some models. If your truck has that cap, you may want to check it or replace it. I don't see anything else on the diagram that could cause this behavior, unless there is a bad connection somewhere. If that red wire powers the field winding, a bad cap could be pulling down the voltage.
is the battery light on with the key on, engine off? if not.... it should be. if not, one of the small wires is the ground for the bulb. if the bulb is burned out, it wont charge....The large wire should have 12volts. What is the voltage at the battery when running?
This sounds like the altenator belt is loose. When the altenator is under a load the magnetic field causes the altenator to require more fource to rotate. At higher engine rpms the belt can be slipping on the altenator pulley. There is one other possibility I can think of and that would be that the voltage regulator is faulty and and causing an overvoltage at higher engine speeds and therfore opening up the field circuit to prevent the altenator from over charging the battery this is a safety function of the regulator. I would check the belt first.
Possibly could solve the problem IF the cables are bad. Do u know if they might be original? If they might be, (or almost original) I would replace them, as 25 years is mighty ancient when it comes to cables. Running out of ideas!!!! Keep me posted. Gotta get to work, will check in later.
well for starters your altenator is bad because what it is dolinging is over charging the battery hence why it boiled off the water/acid in the battery. the regulater is intergrated into the altenator. there is not a short because numberone your car would not start and two your battery would explode. i never test a battery or altenator at a store like napa or Oreilly's because they are not mechanics ......they are parts guys. your altenator should charge the battery at no more than 14 volts and the average is 13.5 volts. you need to replace the altenator the reason why you are losing a charge is be cause as the car is running the battery is being discharged because the regulator is defective in the altenator. please rate this thanks